Max Output on Stock Rods and Pistons
Jan 13, 2009, 08:55 AM
#33
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 512
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is all good advice guys thanks again. Gonna start a new post regarding choosing your pistons and rods for the stock 2.0 setup. Thanx again
- Steve
2.0L Piston & Rod Recomendation Thread:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...2-0-setup.html
- Steve
2.0L Piston & Rod Recomendation Thread:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...2-0-setup.html
Last edited by sdfontanini; Jan 13, 2009 at 09:02 AM.
Jan 13, 2009, 09:19 AM
#34
A couple quick things to remember. Stock weak link is rod bolts. Upgrade those and then dont spin the motor way above stock redline if at all. I would say with good rod bolts and e85 an EVO motor will last quite a long time on stock block. Rev it too high a couple times on stock rod bolts at 300whp and bye bye motor. I run 30+psi in the midrange and with stock turbo it falls down quick but I never reve higher than 7k if at all and I have been beating on the motor this way for 10K miles daily driven in 6months. E85 and low rpms are engine saviors. I also run 15w50 Mobil 1 oil.
Jan 13, 2009, 09:35 AM
#35
motors are all different..... some blow while being totally stock, and some blow with 500 whp. at the same time some 500whp evos have lasted years..literally. you can go read the "my blown engine specs" thread and see the facts for yourself. it's just depends on the engine/tune.
One good idea that lots of peoploe use is multiple tunes on the car....you can always change the tune depending on what your doing at the time by computer ...if you cant tune just have someone tune it and save those tunes....do you NEED 500+ when you're stuck in traffic on th way to work? or going to the grocery store...some say yes , haha, but most say no....save the high horsepower for when you are really going to use it and have lower boost tunes that push safer numbers.
cant go wrong with a built motor though...just make sure it's done right and the NUMBER ONE factor i believe associates with any evo build is TUNE TUNE TUNE...
as for exact numbers on how much your stock block will take thats just not known...engines blow all the time stock,built,mild build...depends on many many factors...ive been researching the same thing you are and i'd say 400-450 is safe on stock block dd and anything higher should only be for track/drag days..with a GOOD tune.
One good idea that lots of peoploe use is multiple tunes on the car....you can always change the tune depending on what your doing at the time by computer ...if you cant tune just have someone tune it and save those tunes....do you NEED 500+ when you're stuck in traffic on th way to work? or going to the grocery store...some say yes , haha, but most say no....save the high horsepower for when you are really going to use it and have lower boost tunes that push safer numbers.
cant go wrong with a built motor though...just make sure it's done right and the NUMBER ONE factor i believe associates with any evo build is TUNE TUNE TUNE...
as for exact numbers on how much your stock block will take thats just not known...engines blow all the time stock,built,mild build...depends on many many factors...ive been researching the same thing you are and i'd say 400-450 is safe on stock block dd and anything higher should only be for track/drag days..with a GOOD tune.
Jan 13, 2009, 09:38 AM
#36
A couple quick things to remember. Stock weak link is rod bolts. Upgrade those and then dont spin the motor way above stock redline if at all. I would say with good rod bolts and e85 an EVO motor will last quite a long time on stock block. Rev it too high a couple times on stock rod bolts at 300whp and bye bye motor. I run 30+psi in the midrange and with stock turbo it falls down quick but I never reve higher than 7k if at all and I have been beating on the motor this way for 10K miles daily driven in 6months. E85 and low rpms are engine saviors. I also run 15w50 Mobil 1 oil.
Jan 13, 2009, 04:49 PM
#37
Evolving Member
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We're not talking about tunes, we're talking about the threshold of the stock pistons and rods on a safe tune.
Yeah Josh both you and Tobz make over 500 whp on the stock short blocks, I know it's possible, I just don't wanna be looking at replacing the short block like Troy when I could have made half the investment in just replacing the internals. Eventually I'm gonna do it. Prolly smartest to do the pistons and rods even before the turbo.
Yeah Josh both you and Tobz make over 500 whp on the stock short blocks, I know it's possible, I just don't wanna be looking at replacing the short block like Troy when I could have made half the investment in just replacing the internals. Eventually I'm gonna do it. Prolly smartest to do the pistons and rods even before the turbo.
. I've been making over 500+whp on my stock block/35R setup for over a year. Again, it all has to do with my tuners abilities. You could build a block that is supposed to hold 800hp and it could take a crap at 350hp because the tune isn't worth a damn.
Last edited by Spoolin18; Jan 13, 2009 at 04:55 PM.
Jan 14, 2009, 08:07 AM
#38
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 512
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your not talking about a tune, but yet you just state..and I quote "The threshold of the stock pistons and rods on a safe TUNE"?? The stock pistons and rods could hold 300 or 500, again, it all depends on how well the TUNE is. The tune has everything to do with what they are going to safely hold . I've been making over 500+whp on my stock block/35R setup for over a year. Again, it all has to do with my tuners abilities. You could build a block that is supposed to hold 800hp and it could take a crap at 350hp because the tune isn't worth a damn.
. I've been making over 500+whp on my stock block/35R setup for over a year. Again, it all has to do with my tuners abilities. You could build a block that is supposed to hold 800hp and it could take a crap at 350hp because the tune isn't worth a damn.
Jan 14, 2009, 07:27 PM
#39
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm glad you've started this thread, because I'd been meaning too! 
I'm at 400whp on a Dyno Dynamics Dyno (not sure what the conversion to mustang or dynojet would be), but I haven't pushed it further for fear of the motor letting go.
E85, stock rev limit, hks272's, 20G-LT@25psi tapering to 24, FIC1050's, Stock ECU, plus the usual other mods.
I'm at 400whp on a Dyno Dynamics Dyno (not sure what the conversion to mustang or dynojet would be), but I haven't pushed it further for fear of the motor letting go.
E85, stock rev limit, hks272's, 20G-LT@25psi tapering to 24, FIC1050's, Stock ECU, plus the usual other mods.
Jan 15, 2009, 06:50 AM
#44
Evolving Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Probably a good safety precaution would be to dial back the timing in the mid range if you are runnning E85. Avoid the monster torque and high rpm's. Your engine will smile much longer. 
Jan 15, 2009, 07:26 AM
#45
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 512
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All good info guys, I've heard the rod bolts are the weakest link. I think Buschur Pistons and Rods might be a good setup for DD use. I'd love to take this to 2.3L for the low end torque but only so much I can do right now. Still deciding on a turbo, might see how much I can get out of a stock 8 I don't know.
Here's my current setup:
E85, 31.5 psi max, Stock 8 Turbo, Forge MBC, Precision 880cc, etc, etc, ...
Hitting almost 25.5 psi in first, this car moves really quickly off the line.
Here's my current setup:
E85, 31.5 psi max, Stock 8 Turbo, Forge MBC, Precision 880cc, etc, etc, ...
Hitting almost 25.5 psi in first, this car moves really quickly off the line.