BOV, Intake, Exhaust, Boost control
Field extension harness and HKS AFR!
Originally posted by evolutionist
The numbers seem to point in that direction. I have no tuner or dyno near me. Do you have any opinion on a system that is fairly simple to install and tune by someone who has never done A/F tune? Or is there any good info on the explaination of A/F management? Can you tune without a dyno? I would think that would be very difficult.
The numbers seem to point in that direction. I have no tuner or dyno near me. Do you have any opinion on a system that is fairly simple to install and tune by someone who has never done A/F tune? Or is there any good info on the explaination of A/F management? Can you tune without a dyno? I would think that would be very difficult.
have heard of several people having problems with Apexi SAFC2. They don't pick up RPM signals correctly in some of the units. I heard that alot are coming back for warranty work. Some work fine, but you are taking a small risk. The Super AFR works great. Someone posted there settings from the dyno to give 12.0 to 11.5 A/F ratios. You can use those settings. Just search for the post of HKS and AFR, you will find it.
Brian
Last edited by TURBODAWG; Sep 16, 2003 at 12:36 PM.
Originally posted by RnR Racing
For fuel mangemant get the s-afc 2. When you buy it from us it comes with the preset settings along with the install instructions for your car. These preset settings will give you a lot more top end and 30hp. Then when you get to the dyno you can always fine tune it.
For fuel mangemant get the s-afc 2. When you buy it from us it comes with the preset settings along with the install instructions for your car. These preset settings will give you a lot more top end and 30hp. Then when you get to the dyno you can always fine tune it.
Re: Field extension harness and HKS AFR!
Originally posted by TURBODAWG
[B The Super AFR works great. Someone posted there settings from the dyno to give 12.0 to 11.5 A/F ratios. I used these settings on mine and verified the settings with O2 voltage. I still am getting .92 to .94 mvolts with these settings. The car pulls alot stronger also.
Brian [/B]
[B The Super AFR works great. Someone posted there settings from the dyno to give 12.0 to 11.5 A/F ratios. I used these settings on mine and verified the settings with O2 voltage. I still am getting .92 to .94 mvolts with these settings. The car pulls alot stronger also.
Brian [/B]
You lost me on .92 and .94 mvolts. I would welcome an explanation on the ratios and mvolts. Thanks
On DSM's people used to tune with O2 voltage readings. This was before Wideband O2 sensors were widely available and affordable. An OEM narrow band O2 sensor will read between 0 millivolts to 1000 millivolts (or 1 volt). At 1 volt the airfuel ratio is PIG rich. The OEM O2 sensor wont read any richer than that. It was commonly accepted with people to run .87 millivolts with high octane race gas. When running 93 octane, you should run a little bit richer than that. .90 to .92 is about as lean as you want to run, to be safe. The O2 sensors output will change slightly with heat, that is why you can not tune to the ragged edge with this method, but you can do better than the factory settings.
My Apexi Turbo timer ties into the factory O2 sensor and reads O2 voltage and a theoretical Air/Fuel ratio. When you go WOT it will run off the scale rich on the voltage reading. You can get it down to .92 to .94 mV with an Air fuel controller.
BTW, did you have any trouble getting the flange to seal on your Catback and the muffler assembly connection? If you didn't check it when you installed it, you might want to stick your hand around the flange at the top and bottom of the flange. Mine was leaking at the top and botton, I had to use silicone sealer and the copper gasket to get mine to seal. You cant hear the leak, but you can feel it for sure.
Brian
My Apexi Turbo timer ties into the factory O2 sensor and reads O2 voltage and a theoretical Air/Fuel ratio. When you go WOT it will run off the scale rich on the voltage reading. You can get it down to .92 to .94 mV with an Air fuel controller.
BTW, did you have any trouble getting the flange to seal on your Catback and the muffler assembly connection? If you didn't check it when you installed it, you might want to stick your hand around the flange at the top and bottom of the flange. Mine was leaking at the top and botton, I had to use silicone sealer and the copper gasket to get mine to seal. You cant hear the leak, but you can feel it for sure.
Brian
Originally posted by TURBODAWG
On DSM's people used to tune with O2 voltage readings. This was before Wideband O2 sensors were widely available and affordable. An OEM narrow band O2 sensor will read between 0 millivolts to 1000 millivolts (or 1 volt). At 1 volt the airfuel ratio is PIG rich. The OEM O2 sensor wont read any richer than that. It was commonly accepted with people to run .87 millivolts with high octane race gas. When running 93 octane, you should run a little bit richer than that. .90 to .92 is about as lean as you want to run, to be safe. The O2 sensors output will change slightly with heat, that is why you can not tune to the ragged edge with this method, but you can do better than the factory settings.
My Apexi Turbo timer ties into the factory O2 sensor and reads O2 voltage and a theoretical Air/Fuel ratio. When you go WOT it will run off the scale rich on the voltage reading. You can get it down to .92 to .94 mV with an Air fuel controller.
BTW, did you have any trouble getting the flange to seal on your Catback and the muffler assembly connection? If you didn't check it when you installed it, you might want to stick your hand around the flange at the top and bottom of the flange. Mine was leaking at the top and botton, I had to use silicone sealer and the copper gasket to get mine to seal. You cant hear the leak, but you can feel it for sure.
Brian
On DSM's people used to tune with O2 voltage readings. This was before Wideband O2 sensors were widely available and affordable. An OEM narrow band O2 sensor will read between 0 millivolts to 1000 millivolts (or 1 volt). At 1 volt the airfuel ratio is PIG rich. The OEM O2 sensor wont read any richer than that. It was commonly accepted with people to run .87 millivolts with high octane race gas. When running 93 octane, you should run a little bit richer than that. .90 to .92 is about as lean as you want to run, to be safe. The O2 sensors output will change slightly with heat, that is why you can not tune to the ragged edge with this method, but you can do better than the factory settings.
My Apexi Turbo timer ties into the factory O2 sensor and reads O2 voltage and a theoretical Air/Fuel ratio. When you go WOT it will run off the scale rich on the voltage reading. You can get it down to .92 to .94 mV with an Air fuel controller.
BTW, did you have any trouble getting the flange to seal on your Catback and the muffler assembly connection? If you didn't check it when you installed it, you might want to stick your hand around the flange at the top and bottom of the flange. Mine was leaking at the top and botton, I had to use silicone sealer and the copper gasket to get mine to seal. You cant hear the leak, but you can feel it for sure.
Brian
That is a great explaintion. I think I have some understanding now. Do most A/F controllers have a digital screen that displays the measurement in mvolts, or do they use a different measurement unit?
I have not checked the flange after I tighten it orginally. I will check it again after the pipes cool down. Thanks for the heads up. Thanks for your reply.
Last edited by evolutionist; Sep 16, 2003 at 12:59 PM.
Originally posted by evolutionist
Do most A/F controllers have a digital screen that displays the measurement in mvolts, or do they use a different measurement unit?
I have not checked the flange after I tighten it orginally. I will check it again after the pipes cool down. Thanks for the heads up. Thanks for your reply.
Do most A/F controllers have a digital screen that displays the measurement in mvolts, or do they use a different measurement unit?
I have not checked the flange after I tighten it orginally. I will check it again after the pipes cool down. Thanks for the heads up. Thanks for your reply.
The SAFC and SAFC2 both have digital blue screens that will display MAF signal, RPM, Throttle postion, and other inputs that it is tapped in to. The MAF signal is measured in Hz (frequency). The karman Vortex MAF device outputs this frequency change as the air flow increases. This is a useless number to you as far as tuning goes. If you monitor ths number, you can tell if your last mod had an effect of not. If the max Hz number increases then you are injesting more air. This is about the only useful feature that I can think it would be good for.
Brian
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