I was told to use Valvoline 20w-50 but when I look for it there are like 3 different kinds. There is non street legal synthetic, conventional, and this VR1 stuff. I run alky/pump mix using straight alky and also use Q16. I have heard alky and synthetic don't get along so what should I use?

 

Non synthetic before draining and full synthetic.

 

I always use regular cheap oil for the first 1000 miles, now im using mobil one extended performance 15w50

 

use cheap conventional 10w-40 oil for first 1000 miles, then switch to AMSOIL 10w40 if it's cold, or AMSOIL 20w-50 if it's warm

 

I used conventional valvoline 20w50 for the first 1000 miles, then switched to vr1 20w50.

 

I have a cosworth 4G63 block and big head.
I must use 15w-50 so my choice of oil is.
For the first 1000 miles mineral oil from Aral 15w-50 and after that I will switch to synthetic oil 15w-50.
I do not know yet which one to use...
Redline 15w-50 ?
Mobil 1 15w-50 ?
or Motul 300V 15w-50 ?

 

I know there are non street legal exhausts and intakes but this is the first I heard of non street legal oil.

 

We have the 15-50 Race oils, wich will exceed the Valvoline by alot, however like you said they are not street legal and the reason being is because they are loaded with Zinc and Phosforus, this is a hands down mixure for High reving apps,,, Valvoline just followed suite with this type of oil recently.

the reason these oils are not certified is because they are dirty, meaning after a while you will get a build up inside the engine,,, but nothing that a once in a while oil flush cant take care of.....

GL on your choice

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/rd50.aspx




if you are DD the car just put the clean oils that are certified

 

The recommended oil has two elements -- the WEIGHT and the MFGR.

The weight is based on the bearing and piston to wall clearances that your engine builder selected for your motor. Many forged motors are built on the "loose" side of the spectrum to allow for expansion when hot without seizing. Don't think that a high quality oil of some other weight is "just as good".

There are numerous posts on other 4g63 boards that 10-30W is too runny and kills high performance engines. A word to the wise is to get specific instruction from your engine builder and stick with it.

 

+982379 Non syn for a couple hundred miles I would think, then drain it and put synthetic in.

 

Most of the big dogs use either Brad Penn, Valvoline, or AMSOIL.

 

Is the build up caused by the additives or by a lack of detergent?

 

^^^ the additive package they carry Zinc and Phosforus is a very heavy one thi so they can prevent heat breakdown and prevent as much metal to metal contact as posible,

plus they have np dotergent, dont need it they are made to lubricate,,,,, they are a hands down oil for lubrication,,,,,

 

Motul 300V 10w-40 and 15w-50. After the break in period of course.
For the best prices go to.....


www.ForgedPerformance.com

 

Use the Valvoline 30W For the first 30min just ideling (No load), then change it with the Valvoline 20w-50 for 500 miles, then change to a Full Synthetic. I use the Motul 300V 15 50 for every day (for 2k) and Motul 300V 20 60 just for the track. Good Luck


Evan Smith