I didnt see anything else likely to be changed that would affect this other than possibly my idle and ISCV stuff. I doubt that is likely to have much impact though.

 

This is the second start... this was 50 minutes after my last start and stop.


John,
What's up with the value in this table being Red? Shouldn't it be some shade of blue like the rest? Seems like thats in the same spot as everyone's having that weird issue with the car cutting out.

 

Before we realised it was a code IPW problem this was my fix since it crosses over to open loop cruise right around the time the IPW drop out would occur. Not sure why it ended up a totally different color like that, just a coincidence I guess

 

so you guys figured out the 2500rpm stutter? badass.

 

That was all Mychailo, I just figured out ways around it before he realised it was code.

 

Mychailo FTW.

I don't know that this is the ultimate fix for these injectors. They didn't start PERFECTLY, but they certainly started better than my previous settings. I guess time will tell with other people putting these values in and trying SD.

 

So is this problem solved thanks to Aaron? Aaron do you help customers via remote tune to switch over to SD? Sorry for the off topic

 

True, perfect and acceptable are definitely different levels of tolerances. I wouldnt want anyone to think that this starts like stock, but they do seem to be "reasonably" close. I wouldnt get in a spacecraft that had a heat shield that was "reasonably" close, but I would drive a car that started reasonably easy

 

On a standard combination yes.

It is still pretty tricky without being there firsthand but i think I have covered alot of basic setups (cams, intakes, sensors, etc.) to at least have a really close base. The more advanced setups like HUGE cams, oddball throttlebodies, BIG low impedance injectors, HUGE pump setups with inadequate FPRs, and alot of the little things that can creep into any build definitely make it more difficult.

On those I give it a shot but make no guarantees. On the normal stuff (including oddball builds like mine) I have a pretty good feeling I can get it done.

 

lol, I like that.

 

Your car starts well even before the new file. I would be thrilled if my car started like the second video above. yours didnt have the magnitude of the problem mine does. your car 1.5 second hot starts. my car 10+ second hot starts.

You can have a car that doesnt have the problem and throw a poor tune to it and create a hot start problem. But when you have a car that has the problem and throw the correct tune at it and it still has the problem then we still have a problem to solve.

My definition of car above is "it didnt have the problem to start with"

 

Tony, do you have data on the minimum voltage to have the injectors open at various fuel pressures?

 

94AWD,

If you are experiencing 10 second hot starts what are the cold starts like? I am assuming this is in your evo 4?

While it might not be a "problem car" when it comes to starting it does seem that its a marked improvement. I am curious if you can try the fuel settings independent of the SD on your car (if you have an ECU swap) to see if it makes a difference?

So far all my testing has been with SD cars exclusively. I didnt get a chance to send the MAF version to my second tester to doublecheck my current findings. He also will be able to switch between SD and a MAF (its an VIII) to help quantify the data.

aaron

 

I don't to very low voltages. Above 75psi, they need a min of 10v, but below that, they are good to 8v at least. We can test further if we need to. We need someone to measure actual voltage at the injector during cranking, preferrably in these situations. It's very important that voltage at the injector is the same as voltage at the ecu, otherwise the dead times will be incorrect since the ecu assumes the same voltage at the injector and the ecu.

 

Tony, I havent checked it but I typically use the 7v and 9v latency settings for most of the starting problems I see with larger injectors and various fuels. Since these dont affect cruise, the only thing I can think is they are starting and emergency (i.e. alternator failure) voltage usage.