My car starts pretty much instant when cold. hot starts with in a few minutes are also good. maybe 1 second of cranking before fire. its the hot starts after sitting more the 20 minutes that will make you want to shoot the car.

I have been watching on sidelines for 5 weeks. I took turbo off and ordered FP upgrade. was told two weeks. its been five and counting. oh well.

 

Eric,

The next thing I would do is log coolant temp at the 50 min interval in your test conditions if you havent already, then bump the IPW vs start at those temps only. I have played with that table in really bad cases, but it seems that going higher than 30mcsec vs 3 (stock) is about the upward limit where starting goes bad again. I would presume most of the issues will be in the 50*C range and higher.

I actually have more problems with stock injectors and SD than I do any current injector combination on warm start issues. Then it only seems to be the IX, weird but true.

 

94AWD, what ECU are you running and what are you tuning with?

 

...back on an important topic.

 

I switched to SD months ago and my starting woes never changed.....I had it tuned very well on E85. When I switched back to 93 for the winter i decided to go back to MAF and re-do the SD setup again because I thought I could do even better, even though it ran extremely well without a hitch.

I know the SD switch worked for another problem ID1000 car - but for me it did nothing....

 

I've got a pretty good tune on my car again now and it's showing the warm start issues again.

I'll grab a meter and check voltage at the injector while cranking in the next day or two.

I'm wondering at what voltage this injectors stop opening at on 43 psi. When it was really cold, it was obvious the voltage was low and it was really having problems starting, hot or cold.

 

Have you since tried this to see if it made a difference? Eric had everything in place for the MAF, it just happens that he has a 4 bar so it did the conversion to SD for him as it was SD based. I am trying to see if its the SD that is helping the warm start or if its just some of the settings/background maps.

03, the warm start issues since a change to these settings or a prior change to SD or the like?

 

I did switch to SD and it didn't do anything for me, my starting stayed the same....

 

Got to this thread pretty late...not sure if this will help with these specific injectors, but here is my input on warm start issues.

My experience with warm start issues (the issue after 30minutes to 2 hours or so after shutdown) is from too much cranking IPW. Cold starts are completely opposite and need more cranking IPW (at least for E85).

Anyway, an easy way to test your warm start issue is to try starting the car with the gas pedal at about 50% while cranking. If the car starts right away, or starts easier, then it's too much cranking IPW. The solution is to start lowering the cranking IPW at those specific coolant temps.

That is what worked for me with FIC1250s and my car starts perfectly for cold starts, warm starts, and hot starts. I can't speak for the ID2000's, but hopefully this helps someone. Sorry if it was already mentioned in the thread.


Eric

 

Eric, I was trying to figure out how to explain it. I knew the symptoms and how to diagnose but not the cause. On these 1000s I leave the cranking IPW stock. I had noticed since my DSM days that I could get starting one way or the other (either easy cold or easy hot) and then have to use my foot to throttle it and get it start. Its nice to know the cause of the effect

 

If I get home quickly enough Eric I'll give it a shot.

 

The problem with changing the cranking enrichment is that at warm coolant temps, the stock raw values are very low in the table. Really, if you think about it, the cranking enrichment and initial primer tables need to be scaled down by about 40% for injector size and then the latency should already be handled by the normal injector latency table. Mrfred covered this in his advanced fuel control option thread in the ECUFlash forum.

The stock table has 4s in the warm coolant temp range. You can drop it to 3 and get a 25% drop, or drop it to 2 and get a 50% drop. The resolution just sucks down on that end of the table. On the cold end, the values are over 200, so you have a lot of room to play with it.

That said, I scaled the stock table by 0.60. I get very good cold starts now. Actually, the car fires up and idles at 1200 RPM right away without any pumping the pedal or holding it open. By far the best starts I've had on the speed density patch. I'll be looking more into the warm starts this week. I'm still leaning towards this just being a tuning issue.

Getting a voltage measurement at the injector is going to give us a good idea if there is potentially something else happening too.

 

We can alter the actual cranking latency if we have to get the multiplier tables to all jive. The description and sound I hear in the various videos is not the sound of flooding because its rich, they all sound lean. This is how I have attacked the problem since day one and it seems to be functioning. I didnt play with the C-IPW tables on the ID1000s and really didnt need to that I could see. I feel the start is acceptable how I leave it on customer cars

 

I agree on the warm starts, the injectors almost seem to not be opening.

But leaving the cranking enrichment table on the stock values doesn't seem to work when it's cold. The stock table gets VERY rich around 7C. Multiplying the stock table by 0.6 has lead to great cold starts but made warm starts worse. With the stock values, it was very apparent the car was WAY too rich on cold starts. When it would finally start, a cloud of black smoke would spit out and the plugs would be fouled.

Reving it up a little would clean the plugs off, but it was very obvious the engine was flooding.

With the warm starts, it's very different. The car just doesn't even try to fire for a while and then once it gets that first kick it starts right up.

My plan was to raise 30-70C section of the table while using the 0.6 multiplied values in the cold range below that.

 

Changing the cranking enrichment is not a good argument to solving this problem. the coolant temps are pretty much identical from 2 minutes after shut down to 20 minutes after shutdown. 2 minutes after shut down it starts fine. 20 minutes after it doesn't.