I have these injectors for a while now in the car, hotstarts are normal. Starts like stock. I don't have a stock ecu but a Autronic sm4. But just to keep this thread updated with experience on other ecu's. I like these injectors, will never switch to precision or other ever.

 

Finally some progress here!! Cautiously optimistic at this point. I ported everything over to V796533706 and I have experienced neither the cold start drivability issue I have previously had with all the SD roms or the warm start issue that has been pervasive across both SD and MAF ROMs (since installing the ID 1000s). I have started it a dozen times now and it fires right up. I can drive it stone cold out of the garage and tool around and it feels completely normal now, a few points rich on the WB with the lean spool turned off but I think I can deal with that by just leaning out the whole map.

Travman give that a shot maybe it has something to do with the way the ROM is set up. I used their base fuel maps and VE (my car is fairly stockish) with my latencies and injector scaling (similar to yours). You have to go through down load ROM on the V7 page pretty carefully, the imoblizer hex was set for an 05', lean spool was on and it was set up for load based boost control. I will get on a dyno now to get a nice 93 and e85 tune now with this crap hopefully bagged.

I have no idea how to use DMA, thats the next frontier, but the ROM itself seems to have fixed some of my other issues

 

I do run V7 I have a IX so my rom ID is 88590015....I have flashed my friends rom on my car (just changed the immob.) and my issues were still there. My friend 0xDEAD does not have this issue so I tried his rom direct. Unfortunately for me it didn't work...

I have made a little progress over the past few days....I can now get it to fire on the first set of cranks, still takes a few extra cranks than I would consider normal or fine but at this point its acceptable to me and an improvement from where it was. The adjustments I made I think are band-aiding what is actually going on but for now I am ok with it until it gets warmer

 

Hey travman, have you tried swapping out the entire ecu with 0xDEAD? What if this is some stupid hardware issue lol. I havn't tryed clamping my hoses down yet, but i'll get on it tomorrow.

From what I understand so far. Most/all others on stand alone ecu's don't have issues.

Could it also be the way we bypassed the resistor box??? I just cut mine and soldered the wires together pretty neatly. But, what happens if it was done in-correctly? Could there be enough resistance to cause problems?

 

Yes we did....

I run a PnP resistor bypass harness 0xDEAD made from a dsm resistor box he had lying around, no cutting of stock wiring required.

 

so I bought an apexi active silencer a couple of days ago. I know it's gay...but i live in socal where the chp's are always handing out ref and exhaust tickets and this silencer give me the best of both worlds. It's quiter than stock at low loads believe it or not and flow quite good at WOT.

But back to the point, I was running a standard silencer which had a 40mm hole previously and now I have this active silencer with a 30mm hole. The very first time I started the car cold, it wouldn't start! It took a 7-8 cranks and another 3 to finally get it running. Normally it would start rite up when cold. Even when the car has been warmed up. If I try to restart the car within 5 minutes it's still takes a while and sputters.

hmm...less flow and too much gas? I give it 50% throttle the next morning and walah! It starts right up....I don't know if this has anything to do hot starts but i'm just letting you guys know. btw I still need to clamp my fuel lines but i've been lazy to take off my rear seat because my son's car seat is back there as well. lol

 

So I just installed ID1000's and am also experiencing warm start issues. Cranks fine when hot and cold. Between 1-3 hours, sometimes it will sputter after crank 2 and then dip before finally coming to life. Other times it will not catch at all and then finally fire ~5 cranks.

Any updates on solutions yet?

 

so far, the solution seems to go with a different injector. i was stoked on the Bosch units when i had my honda. there were no issues.

but now that i am tuning an evo, i think i'm gonna stick with my FICs.

 

Travman: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-starting.html

is this similar to your problem? i cant get my car to cold start. However, this morning i put on a set of jumpers and the car fired immediately. i think its a voltage issue (i have a mini-battery)

I'm running the same PnP resistor, dan made me one as well.

Joel

 

Mine were warm starting after the car ran up to temp and then was shut down for 30 min to 3 hrs it was hard to start, extended cranking to get it to fire.

I talked to zach about your issue - I sent him new settings I ran when I had dans ID2000's in my car the last 2 weeks, I had no starting issues on the 2000's with 93 octane in any temps in my car. I run a mini-battery as well and I also let the car sit for 2 days without starting and it still fired on the initial crank on the 2000's.

Get with him for the new settings if u haven't yet and then go from there....

 

this is my exact issue as well, im hoping your settings fix the issue! thanks

 

Joel,
I tested the voltage theory on a stock battery and my mini battery... on and off a charger... 2Amp, 12am, and starting (settings) No difference.

I think the solution is to buy different injectors.

 

so Travman, you switched to the ID2000's and didnt have issues? thats what I was hoping for really.

 

I had my friends ID2000's in my car for 2 weeks because he wanted me to help tune them since i drive my car about 300 miles a week and can spend a lot more time tweaking them than he can.

I am running FIC 1100's and starting issues are gone now.....car starts great in every condition.

My friend also put my ID1000's in his dsm and they seem to start okay for him so I have no idea - evo is just picky I guess. I am 100% satisfied with the FIC's - I lost money over it but learned some stuff and it is what it is.

 

I think the starting issue is pretty minor, really. Just open the throttle 100% and it starts up pretty quickly. My car pretty much won't start if it's warm and I don't mess with the throttle. Go 100% throttle and it starts in about 3 seconds.

It also only seems to be an issue on the stock ECU. There are numerous evo guys using standalones with these injectors that do not have the issue.