I tested a IX DV on my particular setup and it was probably a weak example of the breed. It cracked at 11# in my particular case. In fact, my plastic one cracked a bit later than that particular IX valve. So, there is unit to unit variance.

Incidentally, I don't advocate crushing the DV as being the best solution. After reading your explanation I realize that the method you outlined for modifying the stock valves is far better.

EDIT: Yeah, I got the same result of 14 PSI which you did, with my plastic valve.

 

did you run pressure to the top of the valve as well as the bottom?

 

Fireman: I would be embarassed to describe the shadetree, empirical (S.O.P. )methodology that I used to compare and test DV's. I hope that no one calls me out on it, buddy! LOL . No Mityvacs, peak-hold digital gauges or bicycle pumps for this Neandrethal.

 

If you didn't pressurize the top port, then it's a useless test other than determining the cracking pressure of the spring itself.

 

Yes, Steve, testing and then raising the cracking pressure of the spring was all that I was concerned about at the time. You see I was then running a relatively low(19#) peak boost level, but was interested in improving the rate of spool on my TME turbo. So, I didn't want the valve to start lifting at all until at least 15# of seat pressure was reached.

 

is anyone using the mr to hold 30psi +

 

But by pressurizing the top port, you're in essence creating more spring pressure to keep the valve closed on the seat. The actual "spring" rate is irrelevant as that's not how it functions in the car.

 

What you're saying still is not really correct.

If you just put a pressure signal on the UICP side of the piston the PSI at which it starts to open does not mean a thing in the real world. It has NOTHING to so with spool up or when the valve starts to open on the car. . .

On the car there is also that little line that runs to the top of the valve from the intake manifold. That is pressurized at the same rate as the bottom side of the piston, so to REALLY find out when it starts to open you have to hook your pressure source to both that little nipple AND the UICP side. . . .

Back on topic, does anyone know the actual spring rates of the Tomei unit vs. the stock IX unit??

 

Yeah all the nipples that you specify were connected at the time. So what? Next time
i'll be sure to call you 1st. Sorry for the OT.

 

[quote=EVOlutionary;6690702]What you're saying still is not really correct.... It has NOTHING to so with spool up or when the valve starts to open on the car. ../quote] By God, you are most surely right, old chap!

 

Don't be a d!ck. Someone asked you before if you connected the top port and you essentially said no. That's what I was going by. If you don't want people to suggest help, then answer the question correctly the first time. . .

As you can see there are others who thought you meant the same thing . . .

 

I am in the same position (I think as the OP) I have just installed my new green with new 3' pipes all the way around and I am getting tuned in soon at about 26-27 psi. I have the IX MR valve now, metal, should I upgrade just to be safe, or should it hold at these boost levels? If you suggest replacing it, what would you choose and why?

 

I'm running a stock Evo IX wastegate @ 24PSI

 

I run my std IX dump valve at over 2 bar.

check out my boost curve

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ull-ix-uk.html

I haven't had any issues with the boost leaking or not that i'm not aware of. although i'll be upgrading in the future as a matter of caution probably but i'll stick with recirculating bov.

 

MR Bov is solid, dumped the stock plastic right away after i noticed it wouldnt hold boost.