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Suggestions on LICIP and UCIP?

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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 09:07 PM
  #16  
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From: michigan
nisei or PPI
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 09:18 PM
  #17  
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From: Detroit
Originally Posted by houdini_178
Whatever you do, pick up a LOWER intercooler pipe that has a bracket welded to it in order that the pipe does not get spit. If you look at Mitsubishi's OEM Lower Pipe, it has two (Yes, 2) brackets welded to it so that at stock 289bhp the pipe does sit in place and does not move at high boost. Now, imagine doing 360whp at a dyno and pipe keeps getting spit. Even worse, imagine going on a freeway, with NO shoulders, and the pipe gets spit. Car stalls, cant move; crazy drivers honking horns!!! Well both scenarios happenned to me.

Synopsis: When it comes to pipes, buy ones that have AT LEAST HAVE ONE BRACKET WELDED to it.

Trust the vehicle's original designer that put them there.
heythanks for the comments man. are u refring to mounting brackets? and what do u mean by "the pipe gets spit"?
thanks
'
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:57 AM
  #18  
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From: NUNYA
Originally Posted by detroit pistins
heythanks for the comments man. are u refring to mounting brackets? and what do u mean by "the pipe gets spit"?
thanks
'
He means the pipe will pop off. I just got a response from Nisei (beautiful looking pipes) and their UICP also requires the small battry mod or the stock battery relocated to the trunk. Just an FYI

P.S. the Nisei pipes have mounting brackets as well. So no worries of pipes poppin off
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:38 AM
  #19  
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From: Vancouver, WA
Originally Posted by houdini_178
Whatever you do, pick up a LOWER intercooler pipe that has a bracket welded to it in order that the pipe does not get spit. If you look at Mitsubishi's OEM Lower Pipe, it has two (Yes, 2) brackets welded to it so that at stock 289bhp the pipe does sit in place and does not move at high boost. Now, imagine doing 360whp at a dyno and pipe keeps getting spit. Even worse, imagine going on a freeway, with NO shoulders, and the pipe gets spit. Car stalls, cant move; crazy drivers honking horns!!! Well both scenarios happenned to me.

Synopsis: When it comes to pipes, buy ones that have AT LEAST HAVE ONE BRACKET WELDED to it.

Trust the vehicle's original designer that put them there.
Mitsubishi also said a tube and fin 3.0" intercooler would be sufficient on the evolution (we know that's not true, even at stock boost), along with the stock rod bolts, we have seen what happens with those as well.

We have tested our lower pipe on several scenarios and never had a problem with it popping off, even with no brackets on the pipe. We use a steel pipe w/ t-bolt clamps and 4-ply silicone. You can tighten the t-bolt clamps with an air rachet without crushing the pipe.

We have sold hundreds of lower pipes with no problems. Just thought I would chime in!

If you have any questions regarding a lower pipe let me know!

Dyno Results and Information on the ETS LP2

http://www.extremeturbosystems.com/p...duct_info.html

12-18whp gain over stock!


Thanks everyone!

Michael
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:26 AM
  #20  
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From: Detroit
great! will definitly keep all of these comments in mind.
thanks
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:47 AM
  #21  
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From: West Point, New York
any difference between 2.5" vs 3" piping?
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