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Just replaced Forge DV with turbo XS

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Old Sep 27, 2003 | 05:26 PM
  #31  
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From: West Hillz California
so if i send my blov back to forge yall will give me a refund on it. ive tried almost every spring combo with shims and with out after the 20th time i gave up , the flutering noise makes me hostile sounds sickly. if you could tune mine for me and make it not flutter i would happy to run your product, but as far as now, im looking for something better ~adam
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Old Sep 28, 2003 | 08:20 AM
  #32  
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Just yesterday I jumped on the bandwagon...My car was surging at WOT all day. I think it is due to the colder climate, but even if that's the case I'm not interested in this valve anymore. It was working ever so perfectly for about 4 months until the weather hit. I don't want it if it can't stand it's ground in the winter.

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Old Sep 28, 2003 | 12:10 PM
  #33  
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WannaRace - which one? Forge or TurboXS?

Darn it! I'm still on the fence...
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Old Sep 28, 2003 | 12:14 PM
  #34  
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Forge DV..Someone said the Turbo XS leaks tho..
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Old Sep 28, 2003 | 02:00 PM
  #35  
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Now.... with the green spring.... that "flutter" has been replaced by the valve bleeding off boost nice and smoothly as it should. However, I'm a little worried that the valve isn't holding boost as well since I'm running such a "loose" spring (green).
I would not worry about that, the forge valve has a very large actuator/valve ratio. From the EVO testing we have seen so far, the pressure drop from the turbo outlet to the manifold has been no more than 3-4PSI or less. With that sort of pressure differential this valve should be able to stay closed without a spring.
At full boost WOT the Forge or the Greddy type-s require very little or no spring tension to remain closed. This is why I always chuckle when people say they had to up the spring tension to keep these valve's from leaking. I always wondered how they figured the valve was leaking, unless your on a chassis dyno with your hand in front of the DV outlet you cannot tell if it's leaking at WOT.

Don't get me wrong, you want to used the highest spring tension you can for improved throttle response. Just use the highest spring tension that also gives good drivability. From what I know the blue spring should provide as good or better drivability compared to the stock DV. You can install the Forge valve in either direction, based on what I have seen, I would use the stock position.
Your drivability issues could be caused by something other than the valve, as a quick test put the stock valve back in. Due to the MAF most aftermarket intake systems usually do not help drivability so....

Regards,

Eric
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Old Sep 29, 2003 | 05:12 AM
  #36  
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does someone have a picture of the Turbo XS installed. Just wondering, because I should be getting mine today. Although now after reading the last couple of posts I am a little skeptical about this valve. I will post after the install.
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Old Sep 29, 2003 | 01:02 PM
  #37  
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Nevermind.

Last edited by USP45; Oct 1, 2003 at 07:59 AM.
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Old Sep 29, 2003 | 01:46 PM
  #38  
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Originally posted by SuperchargedGTZ
does someone have a picture of the Turbo XS installed. Just wondering, because I should be getting mine today. Although now after reading the last couple of posts I am a little skeptical about this valve. I will post after the install.
SILVER...do you think I should just return it and not bother installing or do you think there is some modification that can be made to increase its effectiveness
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Old Sep 29, 2003 | 01:54 PM
  #39  
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Silver, did you have the valve on the car, bench test it, or both? I never had any leaking problems with the one I had. The Forge seems to be VERY inconsistent, perhaps a manufacturing problem?
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Old Sep 29, 2003 | 01:55 PM
  #40  
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My T XS valve is still working great. IF it does leak, it sure as hell doesn't adversly affect performance. It certainly doesn't idle like it has a vacuum leak. And performance-wise, the car drives so much better with the XS valve vs. the forge. Hopefully I can give forge some insight into their valve if I ever get down to see them. For those of you that have already ordered an XS valve, and are regretting it, I say, don't worry. You'll be pleased.
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Old Sep 29, 2003 | 11:13 PM
  #41  
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Hey Silver Surfer, I wish that I had known that the TurboXS DV did not work well before I bought it, but having it now I have a question for you
Sorry, Turbo XS makes a lot of really nice stuff and I have a good friend who sells it. That's how I got one to test and why I was hesitent to blast it on an open forum.



I have thought about useing some valve lapping compound to better seat the piston, do you think that this would work or are there too many other problems with this particular DV?
I don't know, maybe, if you can return it I would.

if it will not seal to begin with then I don't see myself as being much better off than I was with the stock DV.
Bingo.

Silver, did you have the valve on the car, bench test it, or both? I never had any leaking problems with the one I had. The Forge seems to be VERY inconsistent, perhaps a manufacturing problem?
I actually tested it on the bench and in the car. As I said you can adjust it for smooth drivability, but it does leak, possibly more than the stock DV.
You can use a very soft spring with the Forge vavle, from what I have seen it should work very well. Without testing your particular valve/car I could not honestly say why you were having problems with it. It seems to work well for most.

My T XS valve is still working great. IF it does leak, it sure as hell doesn't adversly affect performance. It certainly doesn't idle like it has a vacuum leak.
The leaking I am referring to is relatively mild so you most likely will not notice the slight performance gain/loss provided by theses DV's.
As a simple test use a hand vacum pump on the actuator, even the stock DV will hold a vacum. I could not get the turbo xs to hold a vacum and the valve leaks like the stock DV even when full closed.
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Old Sep 29, 2003 | 11:56 PM
  #42  
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im trying to understand if my forge dv is surging my trubo. when i have the yellow or green spring in, on light and low-mid boost/throttle when i let off the gas, it makes a solid woosh sound. At mid-high or high boost/throttle, it makes a chu chu chu chu sound. Is this normal or shouldnt it always make a solid woosh? Plz let me know this has been killing me forever now. Also, what are those little silver washers for? To tighten the tension instead of changing the spring?
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Old Sep 30, 2003 | 07:10 AM
  #43  
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At mid-high or high boost/throttle, it makes a chu chu chu chu sound. Is this normal or shouldnt it always make a solid woosh?
I only played with one of these Forge valves for a couple of hours so keep that in mind. With that said, no that does not sound right to me, and the one we used did not do this. I could see something like that happening if you install the valve backwards though, which way do you have it installed?

what are those little silver washers for? To tighten the tension instead of changing the spring?
I did not see any washers with the valve I tested, but that is generally what they are used for. The Greddy type-s has an adjustment screw that basically does the same thing, only it's more convienient.
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Old Sep 30, 2003 | 11:29 AM
  #44  
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ya i put it in backwards {with the boost nipple upwards, not stock} because i noticed it was making less noise this way. But ill try swapping it back to stockposition, if that doesnt work, im gonna return this piece of **** back to forge. Oh today i noticed sometimes when i get off the gas, the car jolts for a second, im guessing thats surge, so im not happy at all. I didnt pay nearly 180 bucks to have a bov do the opposite of what its supposed to.
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Old Sep 30, 2003 | 01:41 PM
  #45  
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Originally posted by SILVER SURFER


I only played with one of these Forge valves for a couple of hours so keep that in mind. With that said, no that does not sound right to me, and the one we used did not do this. I could see something like that happening if you install the valve backwards though, which way do you have it installed?



I did not see any washers with the valve I tested, but that is generally what they are used for. The Greddy type-s has an adjustment screw that basically does the same thing, only it's more convienient.
The difference is the piston inside the valve. Do you have the new style which is a cylinder with groves around it or the old which is a much narrower piston. The new style doesn't flow enough air to properly release during shifts. This sounds like your problem. IT is not really valve flutter but the noise it makes because of design. Ultimately though if it can not flow enough air then the end result us still the same and that is surge. I was hopnig Forge would address but I haven't heard back from them. I fortunately havethe old style piston on hand so I switched back to it. With that piston though I have to run it backwards (so to speak) to avoid a hideous squeak/schreach noise everytime it opens.

The washers are shims but are kind of overkill if you have 4 or 5 different springs to work with.
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