Just replaced Forge DV with turbo XS
SILVER....where is the leak that you are talking about? Are you talking about the top that unscrews....if so, could you possibly wrap some teflon tape around the threads to help create a better seal???
No, the actuator piston and the valve seat have no rubber seal so they both leak somewhat. While this small leaking does not prevent it from working, it does lower it's operating effeciency. That couple with the relatively low actuator/valve size ratio make this DV a poor choice for this application, IMO.
It looks nice, fits well, and cost less than the other DV's, and I have a friend who would practically give me one, unfortunately I cannot recommend it.
It looks nice, fits well, and cost less than the other DV's, and I have a friend who would practically give me one, unfortunately I cannot recommend it.
But the forge doesn't have a rubber seal on the piston seat either. At least the Turbo XS piston is brass (i think, bronze, maybe?) so it's pseudo-soft and should conform well to the aluminum seat. Or perhaps not?? Any thoughts?
Also, SILVERSURFER, how many washers were preloading the spring the XS valve when you tested it?
Also, SILVERSURFER, how many washers were preloading the spring the XS valve when you tested it?
Last edited by Graysilvia; Oct 1, 2003 at 01:34 PM.
All I can tell you is that on the bench the Forge did not leak at all when closed, the Turbo XS did
I even tried to polish the piston/seat to get it to seal better.
It was a while ago, but I did play with different washers, from what I remember anything more than 3-4 washers would cause part throttle surging.
You can get it to drive well and the sound is not bad, try testing it on a dyno. If it doesn't leak to badly or cause any power loss then maybe it is better than my bench testing indicated. I never got that far, after drivability and bench testing I gave it back.
If I can, I will try to test one on my next dyno session probably in 2-3 weeks.
Regards,
Eric
I even tried to polish the piston/seat to get it to seal better.It was a while ago, but I did play with different washers, from what I remember anything more than 3-4 washers would cause part throttle surging.
You can get it to drive well and the sound is not bad, try testing it on a dyno. If it doesn't leak to badly or cause any power loss then maybe it is better than my bench testing indicated. I never got that far, after drivability and bench testing I gave it back.
If I can, I will try to test one on my next dyno session probably in 2-3 weeks.
Regards,
Eric
Well, I am selling my H34. I don't really know if its not having a rubber seal is a problem or not, but I do know that today was the second time the vacuum hose has been cut by my fan shroud. I am using the AEM intake system and since it comes with a different inlet tube, it has raised the DV about 1.5". This now puts the vacuum hose right on top of the fan shroud where as with the stock inlet hose it was low enough not to interfere. It is embarassing having your car stall out in 6:00 traffic in Dallas and sitting there with the hood up trying to fix it.
It is not the H34's fault and the thing actually has great drivability with three washers, I just can't keep it away from the sharp as hell fan shroud with the AEM intake. (How many other people out there have been cut all to hell by that stupid razer sharp fan shroud? I swear next time I have the car apart I am going to take a file to that edge and then repaint it.) Anyway, if anyone is interested it was used for less than 2 weeks and has everything that it came with for $130 shipped.
It is not the H34's fault and the thing actually has great drivability with three washers, I just can't keep it away from the sharp as hell fan shroud with the AEM intake. (How many other people out there have been cut all to hell by that stupid razer sharp fan shroud? I swear next time I have the car apart I am going to take a file to that edge and then repaint it.) Anyway, if anyone is interested it was used for less than 2 weeks and has everything that it came with for $130 shipped.
HELL YA! That ****ING piece of **** fan shroud! Did it REALLy have to be so god damn sharp? I got SO many cuts on my hands an darms from that piece of crap! i ended up having to slob vaseline all over my arm just so it wont keep getting caught and cut on ****, and my hand... thats another story. probably about 8 cuts from that thing. 3 that bled for about 15 minutes.
Well I installed the TurboXS DV last night. Install was a breeze and mine doesnt touch the shroud of the fan but does come close. I started off with 3 washers and here are my thoughts. The valve def. opens sooner than the stocker with 3 and in 5th gear under partial throttle i am able to get the valve to flutter (Very little), but no surges under WOT. Here is my question, the car did buck noticeably a little more than when i had the stocker in in first. Does this mean I need to put another shim in?
Another good note, the severe spiking i was having (to 22) doesnt happen anymore. maybe i will see 20, but nothing higher.
Also, after the valve opens there is a short high pitched whine coming from the valve. Nothing really that noticeable, but is this normal with this valve.
Another good note, the severe spiking i was having (to 22) doesnt happen anymore. maybe i will see 20, but nothing higher.
Also, after the valve opens there is a short high pitched whine coming from the valve. Nothing really that noticeable, but is this normal with this valve.
Mine makes the same whistling noise, but I get spikes up to 22 psi or so, and have 4 washers installed. And yes, sometimes you can make the car kinda buck when the valve opens and releases all the boost. But, I still like the way it drives with the XS much better than the forge. Of course, it did drive well with the stocker, but after running different valves, it's obvious that the stock valve leaks, because the transient response is so much better with an aftermarket valve. You hammer the throttle, and the boost is there much quicker.
Here is my question, the car did buck noticeably a little more than when i had the stocker in in first. Does this mean I need to put another shim in?
Thanks....I think I just need to drive around a little more with it in. I really havent had a chance to get on it that much and play. I thought that maybe putting a 5th shim in would make a difference, and boy did it ever. The BOV SLAMS shut....i think I will be going back to the 4th. I was playin around at lunch time at work...hehehe
Well after tearing my Forge Motorsport Billet DV valve for my Evo apart for the 100th time, trying every spring, shim configuration known to the civilized world and still having either surge or loss of ability to hold pressure I gave up and ordered a Turbo XS H34 and installed it with three washers. Man what a difference! I t works very well, and will boost to 1.36 bar at 3500-4000 rpm, and at WOT above 4500 rpm will HOLD the boost at 1.21 bar all the way to redline(17.2 psi). It is easy to adjust and hopefully after I get the Works P2 ecu upgrade next month I will have better numbers, but I am a very happy guy now and can strongly suggest this DV. I am going to put the Forgre unit in my 'junk' box and remind myself from time to time that you will lose money in modding your car as long as you don't do it too often or spend too much. This was also a learning expwerience for me as I do ALL the work on my car and I now have a PhD in BOV's.


