Best Twin Disc Clutch?
About 5k, mostly spirited stop and go driving. Drifto probably has a few thousand on his, plus several trips to the track. Drifto is the one who worked closely with SPEC to make this clutch happen, so he can better answer certain questions than me.
My first experience with them was not positive, which is why I hesitated in opting for this clutch. After having the opportunity to take a good look at this new SPEC unit vs. Tilton and QM, I have no concerns. And so far, it's working perfectly.
. . . especially when it comes with little real benefit.
No more noise, no more chatter, no more aggravation here. And FWIW, Drifto has observed zero performance detriment vs. his previous QM at the track. As for myself, the biggest difference I sense vs. my Tilton is the car is now much nicer to drive. There's no comparison.
. . . especially when it comes with little real benefit.
No more noise, no more chatter, no more aggravation here. And FWIW, Drifto has observed zero performance detriment vs. his previous QM at the track. As for myself, the biggest difference I sense vs. my Tilton is the car is now much nicer to drive. There's no comparison.
Last edited by Ted B; Apr 14, 2009 at 02:04 PM.
By the way i know most tend to compare this Spec clutch to the QM and Tilton as they are reserved for the truely "higher" hp evo's but how would you compare it to say the Exedy HD Twin (noise/performance wise)
The QM and Tilton do not make good comparisons because they are better suited to lightened drag cars where noise, street manners, off-idle torque, chatter, and slippage are unimportant. As far as 'high hp EVOs', I don't know of any evidence that suggests that a QM or Tilton holds more torque capacity than what I have in the car now, not that it would possibly even matter.
SPEC's Super Twin is a closer comparison to the Exedy Twin with the exception that it employs one sprung and one unspring hub, uses different friction material (graphite), has greater torque capacity than the Exedy, and the SPEC is a push type, whereas the Exedy is a pull type (which I do not like) and uses (AFAIK) two sprung hubs.
SPEC's Super Twin is a closer comparison to the Exedy Twin with the exception that it employs one sprung and one unspring hub, uses different friction material (graphite), has greater torque capacity than the Exedy, and the SPEC is a push type, whereas the Exedy is a pull type (which I do not like) and uses (AFAIK) two sprung hubs.
SPEC's Super Twin is a closer comparison to the Exedy Twin with the exception that it employs one sprung and one unspring hub, uses different friction material (graphite), has greater torque capacity than the Exedy, and the SPEC is a push type, whereas the Exedy is a pull type (which I do not like) and uses (AFAIK) two sprung hubs.
I have the carbonetics...It been on my car since 10k miles and I have about 58k right now. Still grabs like new with hundreds of launches. The clutch is very veyr loud...I cant even talk to people if my clutch is pressed down.
From searching around, I went QM from Maperfromance.
Noise...who cares?
Chatter...drive around it.
To light...give it more throttle.
I know everybody sees things differently, but that's how I saw it. I've owned and/or driven numerous types of twins and aggressive singles. Aluminum 8 pound flywheels and full weight chromolys. Noise and chatter sucks, but I hate blowing a clutch on race day a whole lot more. A light weight flywheel is easier to bog on a launch, but if it does bog, it's also quicker to get back up on boost.
There were only two clutches on my radar, the QM and the Tilton. I could get either for the same price and like that they are push type that eliminate the clutch fork.
It came down to rebuild price. A rebuild on the QM was $350 which includes new discs and a floater plate. If it all goes bad, I think you can get the cover plate for a few hundred more. It's common parts so getting the parts is easy as well. The tech guy from Tilton said if you need to rebuild a Tilton, it's more cost effective to just buy a new clutch.
Noise...who cares?
Chatter...drive around it.
To light...give it more throttle.
I know everybody sees things differently, but that's how I saw it. I've owned and/or driven numerous types of twins and aggressive singles. Aluminum 8 pound flywheels and full weight chromolys. Noise and chatter sucks, but I hate blowing a clutch on race day a whole lot more. A light weight flywheel is easier to bog on a launch, but if it does bog, it's also quicker to get back up on boost.
There were only two clutches on my radar, the QM and the Tilton. I could get either for the same price and like that they are push type that eliminate the clutch fork.
It came down to rebuild price. A rebuild on the QM was $350 which includes new discs and a floater plate. If it all goes bad, I think you can get the cover plate for a few hundred more. It's common parts so getting the parts is easy as well. The tech guy from Tilton said if you need to rebuild a Tilton, it's more cost effective to just buy a new clutch.
I have just ordered the Spec Twin p-trim clutch, as many on this site, I wanted a push style clutch that was not noisy and had to have a decent life span.
After I install this thing, I will report back ( p.s my car is strictly a daily driver, with maybe 2 to 3 excursions to the track a year)
After I install this thing, I will report back ( p.s my car is strictly a daily driver, with maybe 2 to 3 excursions to the track a year)
Clutch's have nothing to do with WHP its all about Torque ... dont waste your money on the SD
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From searching around, I went QM from Maperfromance.
Noise...who cares?
Chatter...drive around it.
To light...give it more throttle.
I know everybody sees things differently, but that's how I saw it. I've owned and/or driven numerous types of twins and aggressive singles. Aluminum 8 pound flywheels and full weight chromolys. Noise and chatter sucks, but I hate blowing a clutch on race day a whole lot more. A light weight flywheel is easier to bog on a launch, but if it does bog, it's also quicker to get back up on boost.
There were only two clutches on my radar, the QM and the Tilton. I could get either for the same price and like that they are push type that eliminate the clutch fork.
It came down to rebuild price. A rebuild on the QM was $350 which includes new discs and a floater plate. If it all goes bad, I think you can get the cover plate for a few hundred more. It's common parts so getting the parts is easy as well. The tech guy from Tilton said if you need to rebuild a Tilton, it's more cost effective to just buy a new clutch.
Noise...who cares?
Chatter...drive around it.
To light...give it more throttle.
I know everybody sees things differently, but that's how I saw it. I've owned and/or driven numerous types of twins and aggressive singles. Aluminum 8 pound flywheels and full weight chromolys. Noise and chatter sucks, but I hate blowing a clutch on race day a whole lot more. A light weight flywheel is easier to bog on a launch, but if it does bog, it's also quicker to get back up on boost.
There were only two clutches on my radar, the QM and the Tilton. I could get either for the same price and like that they are push type that eliminate the clutch fork.
It came down to rebuild price. A rebuild on the QM was $350 which includes new discs and a floater plate. If it all goes bad, I think you can get the cover plate for a few hundred more. It's common parts so getting the parts is easy as well. The tech guy from Tilton said if you need to rebuild a Tilton, it's more cost effective to just buy a new clutch.
I just had my Tilton rebuilt and was very happy with the price. $290 for both plates ( cerametalic ). $350 for the HRB. Labor was $550.