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worth porting a 10.5 housing?

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Old Apr 30, 2009, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by sslevo
It was an E-bay o2 housing, not the highest quality piece, lol. The flange didn't quite match the gasket so i cleaned it up a bit. I also gasket matched the outlet. You want a smooth transition between the two pieces, by port matching the gasket to each piece you can do that. I centered the bolt holes and traced the gasket on both pieces. When i bolted it up i super glued the gasket to the turbo and bolted on the O2 housing. Centered the housing on the bolts and torqued it down, i could see in the o2 housing and they lined up perfectly.
Job well done,but i what i meant was that if the O2 has bigger inlet than the exhaust outlet then the transithion will be smooth,it's when it's smaller that makes things a little difficult.
Old Apr 30, 2009, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by leecavturbo
worth porting a 10.5 housing? will be going on a ported mani and better O2...i've got a new 10.5 housing and before fitting thought i'd ask?
Have you installed the new housing yet? You probably already know that there are two versions of the 10.5 16G turbine housing, right? Here on EvoM, one is referred to as single flapper, while the older piece is called the double, or twin flapper version.

In fact both units are twinscroll housings. Each version incorporates dual, side by side(divorced, siamese) turbine bypass ports. Externally they are distinguished by the fact that each has a different shape of flapper valve.

I think that yours is probably the newer single-flapper version, judging from the way that you've described it. At any rate, have you installed the housing yet or not? If you still haven't installed it, do you have it at hand?

Last edited by sparky; Apr 30, 2009 at 04:18 AM.
Old Apr 30, 2009, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by sparky
Have you installed the new housing yet? You probably already know that there are two versions of the 10.5 16G turbine housing, right? Here on EvoM, one is referred to as single flapper, while the older piece is called the double, or twin flapper version.

In fact both units are twinscroll housings. Each version incorporates dual, side by side(divorced, siamese) turbine bypass ports. Externally they are distinguished by the fact that each has a different shape of flapper valve.

I think that yours is probably the newer single-flapper version, judging from the way that you've described it. At any rate, have you installed the housing yet or not? If you still haven't installed it, do you have it at readily hand?
not installed and not in hand but i got a pic of the actual item i think.
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Last edited by leecavturbo; Apr 30, 2009 at 04:22 AM.
Old Apr 30, 2009, 04:21 AM
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Post up a pic that shows the turbine inlet area if you have one. The turbine inlet area is located at the twin, side-by side inlet ports to the housing viewing inward from the flange that mates to the exhaust manifold.
Old Apr 30, 2009, 04:26 AM
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I can give you a brief exlanation of how to easily port the initial part of the turbine inlet area to improve flow out through the turbine bypass port(s), since this seems to be of concern to you.
Old Apr 30, 2009, 04:29 AM
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O.K. yours is the newer, single-flapper design of the 10.5 cm housing.
Old Apr 30, 2009, 04:32 AM
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i think the jist of it is too put the gasket on a scribe the inside of the gasket then remove that overlap of material but blended nice a smoothly to the volutes ?
Old Apr 30, 2009, 04:34 AM
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i know a company that could fit a bigger gate so i could open the exits !!!
Old Apr 30, 2009, 04:58 AM
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Now, you don't need to port the chamber that houses the WG flapper at all. So, leave it alone.

The other chamber, that is the turbine outlet side, you can do some porting on however. The aim here would be to lower exhaust backpressure, and thus improve the pressure differential between the turbine inlet and the turbine discharge.

Place the STOCK gasket on and align the four bolt holes. Then mark overhang around the chamber. Don't worry about the wall that divides the turbine discharge chamber from the WG chamber. So, you should have a cirmferential mark except for the segment of the divisory wall, right? You can scribe this line.

If you look at the turbine discharge chamber in your posted pic you will see a shinny machined cut inner circumference. That is where the turbine wheel's exducer spins. You do not want to grind that machined area whatsoever. So, you essentially grind from the outer edge of that machined area to the scribe mark.

Try to visualize that you will end up with the internal shape of a trumpet horn discharge. So it won't be a flat surface grind but will have a radius to it, like a trumpet.

This is how you grid the turbine discharge area of the turbie housing. This will reduce exhaust backpressure considerably, improving both spoolup and topendpower. Also it reduces EGT's.

The porting to improve WG flow is a separate operation and you needto post up a pic of the turbine inlet area to explainthat.
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Old Apr 30, 2009, 05:04 AM
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Old Apr 30, 2009, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by leecavturbo
i know a company that could fit a bigger gate so i could open the exits !!!
I have thought about doing this myself as Precision Turbo & Engine offers a larger diameter WG puck for the internally gated Garrett housings. But, I don't think that it will be needed in your case ad would be an extra expense.

I'll explain to you how to port the initial radii of the bypass ports located in the turbine inlet area of your housing so that it will have more than enough bypass flow out through the stock WG puck.

I have run several configurations of the 16G, including a 9.8 cm TME, and a 9.0 cm EvoGreen with extreme levels of wastegate preloading and I've never experienced creep or spike with the stock ported passage and the stock diameter wastegate puck. But, if you want to spend your money on adapting a larger diameter puck, then go ahead.
Old Apr 30, 2009, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by sparky
I have thought about doing this myself as Precision Turbo & Engine offers a larger diameter WG puck for the internally gated Garrett housings. But, I don't think that it will be needed in your case ad would be an extra expense.

I'll explain to you how to port the initial radii of the bypass ports located in the turbine inlet area of your housing so that it will have more than enough bypass flow out through the stock WG puck.

I have run several configurations of the 16G, including a 9.8 cm TME, and a 9.0 cm EvoGreen with extreme levels of wastegate preloading and I've never experienced creep or spike with the stock ported passage and the stock diameter wastegate puck. But, if you want to spend your money on adapting a larger diameter puck, then go ahead.
yeah if its any thing like more than small change i'll leave it
Old Apr 30, 2009, 05:22 AM
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For yor app on a stock 2-Liter moor with a 16G, you just need to port the lead-in radii to the bypass ports. It takes about half an hour.
Old Apr 30, 2009, 05:46 AM
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ok ok
got some burrs might have a couple more some where.
do i need a long reach one?
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Old May 1, 2009, 01:34 PM
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ok here we are sparky a good pic inside the volutes
so top tip time
i got the bit you said don't touch marked in red correct?
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Last edited by leecavturbo; May 1, 2009 at 02:04 PM.


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