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2.3l strocker w/ i-beam ques.

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Old May 1, 2009 | 06:06 PM
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wevo1985's Avatar
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From: kingston,ny
2.3l strocker w/ i-beam ques.

hey, so im assembling my motor and have a small problem. its a 2.4l crank with i-beam rods and when i turn the crank the rods are hitting the cylinder wall. i know you have to knoch out the inside for the crank but has anyone ran into this problem due to the thick rods?

if so what did you do? im prolly just going to put a small knoch at the bottom of the wall sence it wont harm the perfromance of the vehicle.

thank you
martin
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Old May 1, 2009 | 07:01 PM
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no one ever have thins problem? cant be only me. maybe i did something wrong.
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Old May 2, 2009 | 02:50 PM
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From: kingston,ny
bump
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Old May 3, 2009 | 09:22 AM
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From: kingston,ny
so no one has had this problem?????
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Old May 3, 2009 | 11:31 AM
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From: Arizona
You having a conversation with yourself?

You will need to notch the block to clear the rods. You should have a professional engine building shop do this as it is very specialized.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 02:05 AM
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Hahahah...dont all jump in at once.


I use Pauter rods for my builds (mostly) which are very very wide at the base and even on the 2L i take a bit off the edges of the sleeves to ensure a fair gap for swing over.

As long as you are reasonable and dont take lots off you will be fine. Try stick to a low angle and not go too far into the sleve. Clean the block out well. I usualy mask it up in the area i die-grind so i can control the mess. Also makes it easier to clean up.


Were you to have used Pauter rods on a 100mm stroke you'd have to take quite a bit off there and as there is an oil channel on the one side you need to be cautious.


A
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Old May 6, 2009 | 02:14 AM
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From: Knoxville Tennessee
Originally Posted by Q15H
You having a conversation with yourself?

You will need to notch the block to clear the rods. You should have a professional engine building shop do this as it is very specialized.
lol it's not really a "specialized" operation. I did it myself, ya just grind off enough so that your rotating assembly can rotate freely. Don't take off TONS of material, but take off enough so it will NEVER hit even while at hot temps.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 08:28 AM
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thank you. the last two post def answered me. just wanted to know what others did. thanks alot
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Old May 6, 2009 | 08:36 AM
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From: kingston,ny
Originally Posted by popadel
Were you to have used Pauter rods on a 100mm stroke you'd have to take quite a bit off there and as there is an oil channel on the one side you need to be cautious.


A
i would assum that this is on the side the oil squirter is on?
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Old May 6, 2009 | 08:57 AM
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From: Knoxville Tennessee
BTW also be sure to bend the oil squirters, or place washers underneath them so that the piston doesnt hit it when it goes down!
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Old May 6, 2009 | 06:09 PM
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From: kingston,ny
Originally Posted by Johnboy1065
BTW also be sure to bend the oil squirters, or place washers underneath them so that the piston doesnt hit it when it goes down!
thanks, i did not know that so i will do that too
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