Mobil 1...Black after 2700 Miles...
Mobil 1 oil is the best oil outhere. it makes the most power on our dyno's. No oil manufacturer has yet to produce the off the shelf 0w-30 mobil 1. it tends to get dark because of anti-friction additives.
To say that "Maybe mobil 1 oil sucks" reveals your knowledge.
To say that "Maybe mobil 1 oil sucks" reveals your knowledge.
Obviously the fact that I posted on here asking a QUESTION signifies I didn't know if it was odd my oil was black. Thats why people who know the answer, like yourself are supposed to give me an intelligent response. The word "maybe" followed by a question mark is a clue that the person making that statement doesn't know the answer.
Originally posted by WOT
Mobil 1 oil is the best oil outhere. it makes the most power on our dyno's. No oil manufacturer has yet to produce the off the shelf 0w-30 mobil 1. it tends to get dark because of anti-friction additives.
To say that "Maybe mobil 1 oil sucks" reveals your knowledge.
Mobil 1 oil is the best oil outhere. it makes the most power on our dyno's. No oil manufacturer has yet to produce the off the shelf 0w-30 mobil 1. it tends to get dark because of anti-friction additives.
To say that "Maybe mobil 1 oil sucks" reveals your knowledge.
www.amsoil.com
check it out... you might like what you find.
I noticed my original fill of 10W-30 was extremely dark. I've payed very close attention to oils in the past with other cars. After 3000 hard miles with Valvoline Synpower in other cars it looked brand new.
But yes M1 is darker than a lot of other oils but the time it took for the original fill to turn jet black on a brand new motor alarmed me. I ended up switching to a 15W-50 M1 at around 2500 miles and right before I tracked it. After two days of hard driving on the track and several hundred more highway miles the oil still looked good. About a 1000 miles after that I had it changed again w/PitPass to the dealer 10W-30. We'll see how this holds up. I figured the 30 turned black so quick because of breakdown from the extreme heat of the turbo. I'm doing an oil anaylysis test on this fill before I get it changed.
But yes M1 is darker than a lot of other oils but the time it took for the original fill to turn jet black on a brand new motor alarmed me. I ended up switching to a 15W-50 M1 at around 2500 miles and right before I tracked it. After two days of hard driving on the track and several hundred more highway miles the oil still looked good. About a 1000 miles after that I had it changed again w/PitPass to the dealer 10W-30. We'll see how this holds up. I figured the 30 turned black so quick because of breakdown from the extreme heat of the turbo. I'm doing an oil anaylysis test on this fill before I get it changed.
This topic seems to come up about every week. You can spend more money on Redline or Amsoil, but IMO you are just throwing money away. Mobil 1 will have no problems doing the job. I race an air cold motor so oil is a critical factor in how my engine will survive. In the summer my oil temps can push over 300 and I have always used Mobil 1 with no problems at all.
Just my 2 cents.
Just my 2 cents.
a possibility in the oil changing colors so quickly may be due to different driving conditions. if you frequently cruise on freeway speeds, the engine holds a higher temp, which in case helps to burn off a lot of the contaminants that are left in the oil(such as unburned fuel, etc). driving in traffic, stop-n-go stuff, and the contaminants decide to chill in your oil, helping it to turn black quickly. WINSTON is also right that mobil1 tends to be on the dark side even when brand new, however, being completely dark/black is not normal.
The Mobil 1 factory fill is the best marketing/advertisement plan I've ever seen.
If you want the most power, dyno different oils when new and dyno before you change them. See what provides the most power over the life of the oil. A dyno of new oil does not prove anything 2000 miles later.
If you want the best protection, do an oil analysis on the different oils run in your engine. Run the same oil 2 or 3 changes then sample. All engines have different characteristics, materials, and wear differently. Lab/bench tests are worthless. The oil from your car holds the true results. An analysis will also show how frequently to change it.
If you don't drive a lot of miles or change cars like your socks, don't worry about oil. The price you pay depends on where you live. Mobil 1 is about $19/gallon. I can get AMSOIL for $23, and Redline for $30 from a local shop. I don't mind the $4/gallon extra for AMSOIL. I pay that much for a
BTW, don't forget to use a high quality filter. I change my filter between oil/filter changes.
If you want the most power, dyno different oils when new and dyno before you change them. See what provides the most power over the life of the oil. A dyno of new oil does not prove anything 2000 miles later.
If you want the best protection, do an oil analysis on the different oils run in your engine. Run the same oil 2 or 3 changes then sample. All engines have different characteristics, materials, and wear differently. Lab/bench tests are worthless. The oil from your car holds the true results. An analysis will also show how frequently to change it.
If you don't drive a lot of miles or change cars like your socks, don't worry about oil. The price you pay depends on where you live. Mobil 1 is about $19/gallon. I can get AMSOIL for $23, and Redline for $30 from a local shop. I don't mind the $4/gallon extra for AMSOIL. I pay that much for a
BTW, don't forget to use a high quality filter. I change my filter between oil/filter changes.
Last edited by Bluto; Oct 8, 2003 at 05:35 AM.
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