The car i recently got has a greddy type s bov, which flutters when shifting, but the bov also has a vacum niple which is not connected anywhere, while the car is running i can feel air coming out of the niple, so should there be a vacum hose connected there, and if so where should the vacum line be connected to?

 

Try to get a hold of a evo 9 bov and swap it out that would be your best bet...but i do know that if the single spring mod has been done than the bottom vacuum port is not needed. If not the port is used for assisting of opening the bov. check out link for more info http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPa...cd3d81496a13b9

 

i understand that part and i already read about the single spring conversion, BUT i want to know when i even get the evo9 bov, WHERE do you connect the vacum port from the bov? for example the vacuum port from the bov on my dsm connects to another port on the intake....what about the evos?

 

greddy type s, type rs both have diaphram wearing issue, doesn't matter if you do the single spring mod or not, they are not reliable. I went thru type rs, diaphram ripped after some usage.

ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION. The vacuum hose is attached to a small metal tube near cam positioning sensor it's very easy to find.

Just search under evo show and shine, type in engine bay pictures, you'll see, not hard at all

 

If it flutters, it's set too soft. Loosen the 10mm nut and tighten the shaft with a 3mm alan wrench a couple turns, then retighten the nut.

That nipple is to assist pulling the bov open on cars that don't have a lot of vacuum. Most people leave it open like that, but if you want to try and hook it up, hook it up to a boost only source (anywhere BEFORE the throttlebody valve). Doing this though, you'll probably notice the valve open too easily and cause some minor stumbling as you get on/off the throttle.

 

where can i get another diaphragm for the bov? Is it okay to drive like that btw? The thing though is that the car hold boost to 16psi without a problem though..

 

Might want to pressure test it first to see if the diaphragm is even bad.

IF it is leaking, it's not leaking enough to where the turbo can't make up for the leak which is why you're still holding 16psi.

 

if the fluttering he's talking about is compressor surge, then its set too hard for normal driving or low boost driving.

IIRC that bolt/stud on top of the BOV creates sort of a preload on the springs inside the BOV. so you would have to back the bolt/stud out.

someone correct me if im wrong.

as for the bottom nipple, you can Tee in another line off the vacuum line that goes to the top nipple on the BOV.

when i had the type S, i personally left the bottom nipple disconnected/unplugged. with both one spring and both springs.

 

I traded my friend his Metal 9 bov for my type-s for a while and went throught the same thing. It was only a matter or backing the adjusting screw out. After the single spring mod. The flutter under light load was it being too tight. The way i found best adjust it was.

Turn it all the way down.
Open the TB
Listen to see how much the bov opens after it vents.
(i love the sound VTA or recirc'd, but the way a 4g64/4g63 motor holds it vaccuum doesnt mix with this bov if you watch youll know what it mean. we couldnt get rid of it...If it doesnt do this then itll flutter/not open on time/too late/too early)

http://s66.photobucket.com/flash/player.swf?file=http://vid66.photobucket.com/albums/h255/Ithinkyou/Vids/MOV03175.flv"

Make adjustments.
My 3geclipse did the same thing with it.

 

im using the metal BOV now as well. its just much nicer for driving around.

but i still have the greddy type S for when i decide to run higher boost.

 

Im guilty of using this bov as well but after a week thew back on the stock one and its been 2 years now.

 

yeah i have no ideas about the type s bov, but i am going to look into it this weekend, btw where can i get a diaphragm fro it, in case i need one? I really dont want to buy a new bov cause i am getting new tires, unless someone has an evo9 mr bov laying around and want to get rid of it

 

Ah damn, you are correct. If it flutters it's set too hard. If it was too soft it'd release too easily causing a hickup every time you'd let back on the throttle slightly. Sorry about that.

Leaving the angled nipple disconnected is the best idea because it's an equalizer for the pressure inside the cap of the BOV.

 

it'd be like a severe boost leak...terrible

anyone got pics of a crushed metal BOV?

 

hey i thought the metal 9 bov was good up to ~30lbs