Engine Rebuild Advice
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From: Sydney, Australia
Engine Rebuild Advice
Hi All.
After much abuse on the street and on track, I looks like Im now looseing compression in cylinders one and four. Not to mention it keeps blowing the dipstick out, resulting in oil going EVERYWHERE!
Im planning on rebuilding the motor myself on a budget to either an AMS 2.3L kit or a GSC 2.2L long Rod Kit.
The car is used mainly for track, so the extra torque offered my the stroker will help alot. As power is not the aim of the build, I'll be keeping my current turbo + cam setup for now, untill I can afford to upgrade to something like a GT3076R. But thats getting off topic.
What do you guys think would be a better upgrade? The AMS 2.3L Stroker Kit seems like better value (budget rebuild remember), but I 'think' the GSC 2.2L suits time attack and circuit a little better due to the better rod ratio. Im also looking for a static CR of around 9.0 ~ 9.5 as I would like good spool, off boost torque and off boost fuel ecconomy, which the high compression should deliver. Also, is it worth paying an extra $850 odd dollars for the K1 Crankshaft that AMS offer as an option in their kit?
I stress that im not hunting for power and the ultimate goal for the build is a reliable, responsive, free revving, torquey motor that can sustain higher RPM (circuit abuse) for extended amounts of time. Im not really looking for more then 400hp @ the wheels..
AMS 2.3L Stroker Kit - Approx $3,000
OEM 100mm Mitsubishi Crank
Manley "Turbo-Tuff" I-Beam Conrods
Ross Racing Pistons
Crank & Rod Bearings
ARP Main Studs
AMS Race Balance Shaft Removal Kit
GSC 2.2L Stroker Kit - Approx $3,500
Power Division 94mm Billet Crank
Power Division Custom I-Beam Conrods
CP Pistons (9.5:1 CR)
Im currently making 300hp @ 22psi with these current modifications;
*GTPumps TD06-20GLT
*Kelford 272's & Fidanza Adjustable Camgears
*HKS EVC 6
*Trust Intercooler
*Custom 3" Turbo Back Exhaust
*Custom Intercooler Piping
*AVO Suction Pipe
*Custom Airbox & Apexi Pod Filter
*Evo 8MR BOV
Any help/advice/information/experence would be greatly appriciated, as I have never attempted anything like this before..
Regards,
Alex
After much abuse on the street and on track, I looks like Im now looseing compression in cylinders one and four. Not to mention it keeps blowing the dipstick out, resulting in oil going EVERYWHERE!
Im planning on rebuilding the motor myself on a budget to either an AMS 2.3L kit or a GSC 2.2L long Rod Kit.
The car is used mainly for track, so the extra torque offered my the stroker will help alot. As power is not the aim of the build, I'll be keeping my current turbo + cam setup for now, untill I can afford to upgrade to something like a GT3076R. But thats getting off topic.
What do you guys think would be a better upgrade? The AMS 2.3L Stroker Kit seems like better value (budget rebuild remember), but I 'think' the GSC 2.2L suits time attack and circuit a little better due to the better rod ratio. Im also looking for a static CR of around 9.0 ~ 9.5 as I would like good spool, off boost torque and off boost fuel ecconomy, which the high compression should deliver. Also, is it worth paying an extra $850 odd dollars for the K1 Crankshaft that AMS offer as an option in their kit?
I stress that im not hunting for power and the ultimate goal for the build is a reliable, responsive, free revving, torquey motor that can sustain higher RPM (circuit abuse) for extended amounts of time. Im not really looking for more then 400hp @ the wheels..
AMS 2.3L Stroker Kit - Approx $3,000
OEM 100mm Mitsubishi Crank
Manley "Turbo-Tuff" I-Beam Conrods
Ross Racing Pistons
Crank & Rod Bearings
ARP Main Studs
AMS Race Balance Shaft Removal Kit
GSC 2.2L Stroker Kit - Approx $3,500
Power Division 94mm Billet Crank
Power Division Custom I-Beam Conrods
CP Pistons (9.5:1 CR)
Im currently making 300hp @ 22psi with these current modifications;
*GTPumps TD06-20GLT
*Kelford 272's & Fidanza Adjustable Camgears
*HKS EVC 6
*Trust Intercooler
*Custom 3" Turbo Back Exhaust
*Custom Intercooler Piping
*AVO Suction Pipe
*Custom Airbox & Apexi Pod Filter
*Evo 8MR BOV
Any help/advice/information/experence would be greatly appriciated, as I have never attempted anything like this before..
Regards,
Alex
Last edited by Tonba; Jun 9, 2009 at 08:36 PM.
I would say go with the 2.2L if your not dragging..
things to keep in mind when you go to do your rebuild.. you should also replace:
Water Pump Assembly: ~$210.00 w/ Pump and Gears
Balance/Timing Belt Install kit: ~$340.00
its a good time to also get headstuds and strengthened hardware.. goes a long way in the long run.. especially with high-heat road racing situations..
you should also look into Buschur Racing and Gruppe-S for stroker kits.. Cosworth is good too
things to keep in mind when you go to do your rebuild.. you should also replace:
Water Pump Assembly: ~$210.00 w/ Pump and Gears
Balance/Timing Belt Install kit: ~$340.00
its a good time to also get headstuds and strengthened hardware.. goes a long way in the long run.. especially with high-heat road racing situations..
you should also look into Buschur Racing and Gruppe-S for stroker kits.. Cosworth is good too
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Thanks for the help mate.
Dont worry, Ill be going to get all that gear, as well as an ATI engine damper. The head will also be rebuilt with the GSC beehive valvesprings & ti retainers. Port and polishing will be in order too...
Cost is a big thing in this build. The attractive thing about the AMS kit, is not only the reputation they have but also how complete the kit is. It has bearings and all, which lower overall costs...
The car will also be running a 2nd (larger) oilcooler, a power steering cooler and a larger koyo radiator..
I already have a set of 1050cc FIC injectors for the build..
Dont worry, Ill be going to get all that gear, as well as an ATI engine damper. The head will also be rebuilt with the GSC beehive valvesprings & ti retainers. Port and polishing will be in order too...
Cost is a big thing in this build. The attractive thing about the AMS kit, is not only the reputation they have but also how complete the kit is. It has bearings and all, which lower overall costs...
The car will also be running a 2nd (larger) oilcooler, a power steering cooler and a larger koyo radiator..
I already have a set of 1050cc FIC injectors for the build..
Thanks for the help mate.
Dont worry, Ill be going to get all that gear, as well as an ATI engine damper. The head will also be rebuilt with the GSC beehive valvesprings & ti retainers. Port and polishing will be in order too...
Cost is a big thing in this build. The attractive thing about the AMS kit, is not only the reputation they have but also how complete the kit is. It has bearings and all, which lower overall costs...
The car will also be running a 2nd (larger) oilcooler, a power steering cooler and a larger koyo radiator..
I already have a set of 1050cc FIC injectors for the build..
Dont worry, Ill be going to get all that gear, as well as an ATI engine damper. The head will also be rebuilt with the GSC beehive valvesprings & ti retainers. Port and polishing will be in order too...
Cost is a big thing in this build. The attractive thing about the AMS kit, is not only the reputation they have but also how complete the kit is. It has bearings and all, which lower overall costs...
The car will also be running a 2nd (larger) oilcooler, a power steering cooler and a larger koyo radiator..
I already have a set of 1050cc FIC injectors for the build..
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you could also check out buschur's stroker kit. i heard good things about it and based on their website its cheaper compared to ams https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...4af2841a261a32
Honestly I know you want the TQ from the 2.3 but after doing my own research I think the 2.0 is a much better engine. They are much smoother and seam to have longer lifespans as they don't beat themselves apart.
Im with 20Gmr. I know some people will say otherwise, but in all my reading about DSMs and Evos, the strokers just don't seem to last as long as I think it should, especially for the cost involved. I say build a 2.0 to the max. Box motors FTW. OR if you absolutely must I would say go with a 4G64 2.1L destroker, or 2.2L with custom crank.
First off, how much are you down on compression. In recent thread both Mike @ AWD and Dave Buschur spoke about how often a down in compression motor makes great power.
Dipstick blowing out all the sudden is a bad sign, but if you can just put a spring or zip tie to hold it down, and your oil consumption isn't bad, and the car makes power, what is the problem.
Finally, if you need a new motor, and big power is not a goal, get a brand new stock motor. They are good for 100k+ miles. They are uber reliable. Take a look at two of the top engineering minds on this board, TedB and jid2... both have built motors, both have gone through hell and back getting them working right. If the best of the best have problems, imagine an everyday joe?
For every person I've spoken to with a success story of a built motor, I've heard 3 horror stories. Spun bearings, oil consumption, oil leaks, head gaskets, bad machine work, bad assembly, etc..
Hope you find this advice helpful.
Dipstick blowing out all the sudden is a bad sign, but if you can just put a spring or zip tie to hold it down, and your oil consumption isn't bad, and the car makes power, what is the problem.
Finally, if you need a new motor, and big power is not a goal, get a brand new stock motor. They are good for 100k+ miles. They are uber reliable. Take a look at two of the top engineering minds on this board, TedB and jid2... both have built motors, both have gone through hell and back getting them working right. If the best of the best have problems, imagine an everyday joe?
For every person I've spoken to with a success story of a built motor, I've heard 3 horror stories. Spun bearings, oil consumption, oil leaks, head gaskets, bad machine work, bad assembly, etc..
Hope you find this advice helpful.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
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From: Sydney, Australia
The thing is, that the motor is at the limit as it is..
It NEEDS a rebuild. It already is about 25~50hp LESS then where it should be with the modifications it has..
Im not too keen on going a built 2.0L as I dont really see the point, and Im not a fan of a stock motor again, because #1 it is a nightmare to change the blocks over here and get it all engineered and #2 I would like to run more boost + more power without risking damage to another 'stock' bottomend.
The car will need a rebuild sooner or later, and the compression rings WILL let go and could damage more. (piston/bore damage)..
It NEEDS a rebuild. It already is about 25~50hp LESS then where it should be with the modifications it has..
Im not too keen on going a built 2.0L as I dont really see the point, and Im not a fan of a stock motor again, because #1 it is a nightmare to change the blocks over here and get it all engineered and #2 I would like to run more boost + more power without risking damage to another 'stock' bottomend.
The car will need a rebuild sooner or later, and the compression rings WILL let go and could damage more. (piston/bore damage)..
Strokers are just as smooth as any 2.0 provided it's built correctly. The claims of them beating themselves apart are senseless.
Check out our website. We offer 2.0, 2.1 and 2.3 to suit any type of driving/racing. I'm sure that you'll find pricing to be comparable if not better than the ones you listed plus we have some specials going right now to sweeten the deal.
Check out our website. We offer 2.0, 2.1 and 2.3 to suit any type of driving/racing. I'm sure that you'll find pricing to be comparable if not better than the ones you listed plus we have some specials going right now to sweeten the deal.



