At least one of them had a problem because they ran it with NO OIL! Find me an engine that will withstand that kind of abuse. Not much of a "guru", eh?

 

Whether someone checks their oil everyday is not qualification for guru status. Ted has helped people on this board with solid information for a long time and not because he is trying to sell motors.

My point was... that if you aren't gonna make a lot of power, a built motor is a flat out mistake. They are, when all is said and done, a friggen crap shoot.

Do you recommend built motors for the type of power the OP is making?

Now if you're gonna run 35+ psi on a Red or a T3 then that is another story.

 

^ To be honest, there is only a handfull of 400hp stock block cars here.. anything over 350hp on pump (no e85) is generally built...

 

Your right, maybe beating themselves apart is the wrong way to word that, but isn't it "Fact" that the known greater rod angle of the 2.3 is going to wear things faster. I also didn't like the fact that some people were having to clearance the bottom of the bore with a 2.3 depending upon what rods they are running. I just don't see the point, I would much rather give up the slight gain in spool and just ring the **** out of it and make up fo rit on top end haha

I have seen several 2.3's with "resonance" problems as well, pegging the knock sensor at cruise.

I am not saying it can't be done right i just question weather its worth the hassle.

 

Im pritty sure a high RPM 2.0L can wear out things fast too...

 

I went with a built stroker for the fact that my car is a street car. I want the turbo i have hta 86 to spool up fast and make nice power on pump gas. If my car was going to be a track car mostly i would go with a 2.0L with a built head any day. You cant beat the extra rpm to be honest. I see your running a red though so the extra rpm wouldn't be needed but you could stay in the gear longer. For a track/1/4 car go with the 2.0L for a street animal go 2.3.

 

^ Im not running a red

Also, I was asking for reccomendations on the stroker kit.

Whats peoples experience with the K1 crank? Is it worth the extra $850 over the OEM 100mm mitsu crank?

 

sorry lol must of been another thread had a long day today . People are running 750+whp with the Oem mitsu crank. And since i doubt you will be going higher then that i would say no its not worth 850. Unless your going for alot more power.

 

I thought it was lighter and better balanced?

Also, no one here is running that much power on a OEM 100mm crank..

Infact, one of the 600hp race cars here keeps snapping its 2.2L forged cosworth crank..

I think they are going to try something else..

 

That's kinda odd because jam and other builders use the oem cranks. Look at jam's 850whp package it still uses the oem crank. I have a buschur 2.3 stroker and they use the oem cranks also. 600hp snapping a forged crank something isn't right there .

 

^ The most powerful cars over here are no more then 400~450kw which is about 600~675whp. And thats on E85.

-600whp 2.0L running cosworth internals, T67 10CM + E85 (street car)
-670whp 2.4L running custom fully forged internals, custom GT35R turbo + E85 (time attack car)
-670whp 2.2L running cosworth internals, HKS 3037S + E85 (time attack car)
-750whp 2.4L running custom fully forged internals, custom GT35R turbo + E85 (Current world reccord holder for fastest evo 7sec pass)


These are the mose powerful cars we have over here in oz. The second last one has been through a few cranks now.. its been destroying forged cosworth cranks.. the car is built by a workshop that builds racecars, and LOTS of quick evos's.

 

I think the original poster is over looking his best choice....

 

Maybe because the OEM Crank is better then all. Just because something is expensive and designed for racing doesn't mean its going to be better then an OEM piece that has been tested and retested and refined from over 20 years of development.