Maybe it's more mangled than I could tell from the pics. The balance could be way off too...Then airflow goes in the crapper. New one it is.

 

that bent blade is nothing to fuss over. I am 1000% sure it had no affect on your loss of power. look elsewhere for HP loss and leave turbo alone. you will be wasting your money to purchase new wheel. look carefully at this 25g. the first test run the compressor cover popped off. hit and bent all 6 high blades at 20psi. it was a brand new turbo and I was not happy. decided to evenly file all the blades and run it. put 5000 miles on it with no issues. it spooled fast and went 129mph on 27psi boost. you can see how much material was missing from top of blades. a lot!

 

^^you just gave up a new design, lol. nice

 

there's no way that can cause such a loss in hp...i would look for maybe leaks or check the tune one more time.

even on the inducer i would be skeptical but hotside? there's no way a slightly bent blade is going to cause that

you said you bumped up the size of the piping and the intercooler? exactly how big are both of these? piping that's too big for the application can cause a decrease in hp. check for boost leaks, make sure everything is sealed up and then check the tune again

good luck!

 

Dam so you are not the only one who had to deal with nasty crazy blades, on our 727-200's the fan blades of our engines were nasty they had all kind of pits.


OP, if i were you i would sent the turbo to Garret or someone like FP to fix it for you.

 

I've seen worse ran before and still make normal power.

Stuff like 94AWDcoupe posted.

I'll point out though, this is the problem with custom stuff like HTA, "custom long rods," "Custom pistons" etc. WHEN it breaks, which it WILL break at the worst possible time, you are at the mercy of the manufacturer at that point. You'll get it fixed when they feel like it.

If it was a shelf stock GT3582R you could have 1 of 5000 suppliers sending it to you immediately.

 

dude, the turbo will be fine. You are luck you didn't really damage it, run it. You are fine, it's not 100% but you won't be able to tell the difference. Show us the boost plot and your dyno sheet and we can compared it to others with the same setup

 

As other experienced folks have said, that turbo is fine to run Ben and you will not be able to notice or even measure any difference.

This is the comp wheel out of my GT35R which I was running like that for ~9 months without knowing it was damaged.
No significant loss of performance just a slightly different sound that I put down to some other mods.
Replaced compressor wheel with another one (no VSR balance or nothing) and ran fine for many more months before being replaced with another turbo.

 

Thanks all. I have already changed to another turbo, and headed for the dyno yesterday. It seems like you were correct. Almost no change at all. Identical spool and almost identical hp. Will overlay and post dynograph when I get time.
Turned up the boost a little to about 2.25 bar and got 545 whp/ 665nm. Have not driven the car on the street yet, because I want to play a little with cam timing as the car is on the Dynapack now. Have not experiment with it earlier, so I must read about it. Will try to get more power at top. It is ok for me to lose some power at bottom. How many degrees do you adjust when experimenting with cam setup and how would you guys start?

How many degrees of ignition timing are you guys actually running on E85 at maximum torque and at redline at 2.2 bar boost? Reason I ask is I have advanced timing very, very much and it still makes more power without any audiable detonation with my knock listening device. No sign of det on the sparkplugs either. I dont like to stop when making more power without knock, but I am starting to become a little nervous due the high timing

Maybe it is not correct to compare my unported evo 2 head against better flowing Evo 8 heads, but I ask anyway
Will buy a ported head this winter, but have not decided from which company to buy from yet...

 

Today when I should set baseline before playing with cam settings, I stripped the 4th gear on the dyno, so it will take some time before I find out something regarding cam adjustments...

 

Sorry, but I did not see your question before now, but I went from just over 2" to 3" pipes and 70 mm TB.

Waiting for Kelfords 272, 1 mm oversize valves and when I recieve them, they will be shipped with the head to Sweden for porting.
Hoping to break into 600 whp

I will also send the HTA turbo to my Norwegian Garrett dealer to repair the blade in the best possible way and do a new VSR balancing.

 

sounds like your on the right track with ignition.
you advance timing until knock is detected or until advancing produces no more power or torque i forget which

 

The latter, then back up 2 degrees.