so i searched on the forum for a HOW to on this.

i even searched other forums - came up empty.

i am looking for a good guide with pics (it makes it sooo much easier )

if there is nothing out there, and someone gives me a good write up i will do it and take some pics so other members have a good guide.

thanks

 

It is a old as dirt trick but in reality it is a double edge sword. Crush it a little bit and most of the times it will make the spring stiffer by shorting it in length(you arer actually crusshing the spring mechanism inside a chamber). The result is a stronger boost response, more solid all the way across the rpm range.

Crush it too much and you will permanently push the spring mechanism open and your BOV will always leak prematurely causing the turbo to work harder, loosing spool up and ultimately boost..

18 Turbo cars later, (12 of them Mistubishi turbo cars) I learned the hard and the easy way. You can always upgrade to a better BOV but a metal Mitsubishi BOV are good on quality.

Carlos

 

interesting, now u got me worried as well

any guidelines i can use?

from what i read u place it in a vicegrip, etc...

 

Why not test if your DV is leaking before crushing it ? Can't you just pressurize the system to your max boost and see if it holds? I did that a while ago (and will do again now that I am running more psi) and the stocker did not appear to be leaking....Then again, maybe I did my test incorrectly ...

 

while testing my 3 port i accidently pushed 29 psi

bost spikeed and then fell to 26 psi where it continued to fall down to 21. i have a feeling i got a leak there...

 

Well your turbo is going to taper, regardless....29 to 22 psi is a pretty std. taper with ECU / BCS tweaking....You may want to test before you crush....

 

i know exactly what ur saying i tested it already

BTW u on stock headstuds right? i am aiming for 28psi down to 21 on pump.

if u dont mind can i have your estimated - boost @ 5000, 5500, 6000 & 6500

bump for more ideas on HOW to crush my BOV

 

Yes I am on stock headstuds. I can send you my logged boost (no guess work ) if you want....Just send me your email address...

 

+1 for info

 

i have read that you put it in a vice and crush it a little to get the nipple closer to the body.
I havent personally done it yet, but going to trry it to see if I can hold more boost with my Green. i think Im maxing what Im going to hold at redline but Id like to try it.

I can hold 28 or 25psi to like 5-6500 and then it tapers to like 23 os so.

 

be careful with how much you crush it, as it doesnt take much to put the spring into or close to bind. then the valve cant open enough & do its job as well.

i found htis out the hardway.....well, it just made me by another oem ix bov

i can hold 28 psi on my uncrushed / oem ix bov

 

mine holds 25 psi.....

what do i place between the vice grip and the top of the BOV?

 

people use a vise....unless your a gorilla....

use a socket that is ~1/4" smaller than the o.d. of the top of the bov canister, place on top of bov, place in vice * slowly clamp down on it.

be care not to crush to far & dont doink your bov hose barb.

btw, what type of w/g actuator are you running?

 

Aby has it right. Find a socket whose outside diameter is about 1/4"-3/8" in all around from the outer edge of the DV cannister's top. Center the socket over the DV's top and place a piece of wood on the opposite side of the DV. Place that sandwich in a bench vise and crush the top of the DV in about 3/16". Take it easy as it may only need about 1/8 of a full rotation(or 30*-40*) to crush the tin in. You don't want to overdo it.

 

3/16 sounds like too much.