Alright so, Basically beginning of january I was having an issue under close to full boost, where my car was breaking up horribly. At this time I was running a Buschur Racing 35r With a CAST IRON manifold (Non tubular). I brought the car to AWD Motorsports and the Diagnosed the issue as a faulty Cam Gear sensor. We replaced it with one that they had at the shop, Used I believe. Some time goes by and my Motor Blows, we do a full rebuild including a new 6262 Turbo Kit from ETS Including a *Tubular Manifold*.. I have the car for about a month and its running fine daily driving, when I decided to do a pull and it ****ing breaks up like hell. I bring the car back to AWD Motorsports and again they say its a faulty Cam gear Sensor .. Ok cool, I purchased another one.. Along with a "Buschur Racing Cam Gear Sensor shield" so this **** would NOT HAPPEN AGAIN.... no biggie. Cars running fine on the Dyno, not breaking up at all. I take the car home, hardly drive it.. maybe a total of 50 miles since the last sensor.. I do a pull, and the car breaks up like hell, AGAIN??????

Why the hell does this keep happening? Am I going to have to drop 40 bucks for a new cam gear sensor every ****ing week?

Anyone have a Similar issue? It's getting very frustrating that I can't enjoy my car because I'm constantly having issues.. I'd love to take my car to the track but I'm worried that the bad cam gear sensor and breaking up will cause me to damage the motor.


Basically what people are telling me is that the tubular manifold that is very close to the cam gear sensor (The way that ETS Makes them) is causing alot of heat to get to the sensor, therefore making it go bad.. But I just bought this stupid little heat shield that was supposed to prevent this ? That plus the fact that I had a faulty cam gear sensor when I had a cast Iron Manifold ??

/Rant....

 

Damn dude sucks not being able ot enjoy your car...

 

Tell me about it >,<

 

Buy a sheild or make one and put some heat reflective tape on it. Did it for mine n never had another problem.

 

i would have to say, i doubt the problem is cam gear sensors going bad if the problem persists. is it losing signal with the ECU? does the car shut off, or just break up at high boost? is it RPM related or boost related when it breaks up? i.e. can you rev it slowly with no load and at high rpms does it break up? or does it only break up at WOT with 20+psi?

 

I didn't expect everyone to read the entire post But I did end up buying a buschur shield

That's what I'm saying.. That the problem keeps coming back. But the thing that stumps me is, every time we change the sensor the car runs amazingly for like a week..

I'm not sure if it's losing signal with the ECU (im running AEM).. But I assume that could be a possibility..

TBH I'm not sure if it's RPM Related but i'll check next time I drive by just letting it rev up without getting into much load.

 

https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...45497e27e4ad3e

That's what I purchased

 

Was your crank trigger modified at all to give you quicker starts with the AEM?

 

I don't believe so. Car cranks pretty slow cold lol.. But that's a question I would need to pass on to Crispeed, my tuner.

 

The purpose of this new crank disc it so the AEM has a better signal from the crank sensor. It will allow the AEM EMS to sync instantly and the car starts faster. I am only asking because there is modification done to the cam sensor trigger to do it.

If you are still killing cam sensors it might be time to heat wrap or coat the mani.

 

try this: your sensor is sopposedly bad right now right? take it out, and put it right back in and see if it still runs bad or runs good for a little while again.

from what it sounds, your car is breaking up under boost only. i would be looking for ignition problems. whats your plug gap? what type of ignition? could AWD try swapping an aem with you just to check that end of the connection. if indeed the sensors are going bad, something is causing it, and your not finding it. your simply replacing the part as it goes bad (and quickly). the heat from the exhaust is very unlikely because that sensor is on everyones car, and very very very few people have problems with it. many people run ram horn manifolds yet don't see cam sensors fail. if heat were a problem it wouldn't be the drag cars that have issues, it would be the road race cars where temps on all parts get hot because of the long heat cycles.

 

Yeah I was thinking about heat wrapping the manifold but I ask myself, why should I have to? Does everyone with ETS turbo kits have this issue?? <,<

 

As KevinD said, it's most likely AEM related, whether it's the connection or the actual AEM unit itself.

 

Like Kevin stated, you are burning through those way too quickly. It is likely that there is another problem causing your car to break up or these to burn out. The guys at AWD are competent, I imagine that they will be able to help you resolve this situation.

 

This is the first I have heard of this problem with one of our products. I don't think it's the manifold if you were having the same problem with the cast manifold. Did you try the test of pulling the "BAD" unit out and putting it right back in and seeing if it still works? Can you test resistance and see if the sensor is bad?

If there is something we can do, let us know!

Michael