I leak tested my car to 38-40psi, I hear excessive air flowing around the wastegate flapper area the actuator arm is attached to.... Is this normal to hear this? I dont recall this noise on my other cars when testing, but this is the first time ive ever tested past 30psi. It takes about 4minutes to go to 0psi after the test.

I have an FP red with a 17lb actuator. Im just trying to make sure my cars 100% before I go to get it tuned. im shooting for over 500hp numbers and I understand in order to achieve such HP the car must be in tip top shape.

 

question was resolved thanks.

 

resolution?

 

resolution is that its normal for the flapper to bleed off some air, and at 30psi+ its gonna sound a bit loud.

Also: If you are uncertain of where the air is coming from mix some soap with water and spray it on your parts.
If you got a air leak it will bubble the soap and water.

If you have a leak though like i do and you actually try to jiggle the actuator arm/rod back and forth and the air noise changes
tones then i would further investigate your rod adjustment.

 

I got a question for you. I am about to do a boost leak test on my car tomorrow with my homemade tester.

I just take off the intake hose, but leave on the bov that is attached to the uicp right?

 

yes, just take off the intake from the turbo inlet and then connect your tester to the turbo inlet and pressurize through the turbo and it will fill all your piping with air and listen for leaks and have a spray bottle on hand. If your BOV is connected via a flange to your uicp then yes it will not leak.

 

Taking 4 minutes to bleed down to zero is very good.

 

advanced people only lol

 

Thanks alot bro, owe you one.

 

np

 

ya i only initially put that so no one would reply and guess. not really that advanced of a question in reality.

 

+1

What IC Piping are you running an what type of couplers are you using? Also are you on regular T Bolts are do you have a V-Band setup!? Sounds like a very sturdy setup!

 

Just muse upper piping with wrinkle black powdercoat and muse lower piping. Also the couplers and tbolts came with the muse stuff. Im very pleased with the muse stuff and its fitment. The only things ive really done was rtv the gasket onto the compressor outlet pipe and took the car out and beat it for a bit then brang it back in and leak tested again, then tightened the tbolts accordingly. I also replaced the throttle body shaft seals with mil.spec ones.

What ive noticed is once i reach 35psi the vac lines will leak unless they are either super glued on or ziptied very tight. Huge difference between 25psi and 40psi on a leak test. Sometimes all it takes is one full turn on the tbolt clamp and the leak is fixed.

 

The wastegate flapper valve functions only to "bleed-off"(bypass) exhaust gases from the turbine inlet area of the turbine housing. It is not normal for the integral wastegate flapper valve on the turbine housing to bleed-off any intake air whatsoever. This is not normal.

EDIT: My best guess is that you were refering to the WGA cannister and the actuator rod which emerges from it. Right?

 

Houston, we have a problem!

I found a boost leak, wooooo. First time doing it myself and i found something, im pretty darn proud of myself.

Anyway to the point, I found a boost leak on the hose on the TB. Its the one where the ucip connects to the TB then like 2 inch over to the left there is two small hose, and the top one had a little nick in it.

I couldnt locate the second leak, it sound like it was coming from the TB seal. I sprayed some water mixed with soap but i couldnt find the spot. Im thinking it might be on the other end of the TB seal. I am not 100 percent sure, is there something else around that area that could be leaking?