sparktech igntion problem
Sep 14, 2009, 05:53 AM
#16
I recently started having this same issue and talked with Craig and was able to utilize a 30amp fuse to get my car home after blowing 2 15amp fuses back to back. I called him on a Saturday and gave me great tech support on a few things to look for and try. I'm supposed to send the unit back to be looked at, I have just had no time to even attempt to pull the unit from my car. I hope to get it pulled this week and sent out, and will update everyone on what they find. Sparktech is on top of it already so I'm eager to get it fixed!
Thanks again Craig for assisting me on a Saturday, your a life saver!
Thanks again Craig for assisting me on a Saturday, your a life saver!
Sep 14, 2009, 08:14 AM
#18
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And putting a bigger wire and fuse in lol...comical.
Reminds me of a guy that was blowing fuses in a stereo system, he then realized putting pennies it the fuse spot would eliminate that. Guess what happend to his car..
Sep 15, 2009, 11:19 AM
#19
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^If I were you I would be more worried about why more and more Br cops are in the for sale threads and not selling... hmmm seems to be a trend. My guess is that's why you are here.
Meanwhile i've gotta get back to making the best cop system available worldwide for the Evo 1-10.
Meanwhile i've gotta get back to making the best cop system available worldwide for the Evo 1-10.
Have never had an issue with Sparktec Unit at all.
Placing a larger fuse into a *designed for* 15A spot is like putting a bandaid on a cut. It doesn't solve the problem, you need to stop the bleeding.
Find out what your electrical issue is that is causing the fuses to pop, then fix it, and all your problems will go away.
Sep 15, 2009, 02:10 PM
#20
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this is for anyone running one of sparktechs COP systems WITH the m&w cdi box.
has anyone experienced a problem with blowing the 15A fuse inline between the cdi box and the battery? if so, what was the problem. every other fuse that has anything to do with the engine or ignition does not blow.
ive had the system for about 1.5years now, no problems until today. we went through four fuses today trying to diagnose it. just wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem. and yes, i will be shooting sparktech an email about it.
has anyone experienced a problem with blowing the 15A fuse inline between the cdi box and the battery? if so, what was the problem. every other fuse that has anything to do with the engine or ignition does not blow.
ive had the system for about 1.5years now, no problems until today. we went through four fuses today trying to diagnose it. just wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem. and yes, i will be shooting sparktech an email about it.
Sep 15, 2009, 02:11 PM
#21
I sold a BR COP a few months ago here on EvoM. The wiring quality that Sparktech uses sold me.
No matter who you prefer, though, THE PLAIN FACT IS THAT THE MANUFACTURER OF THE M&W CDI BOX SPECIFIES A 15 AMP FUSE TO PROTECT THEIR BOX. It's just common sense that if you're blowing the specified size fuse, you should go looking for the cause, not put in a bigger fuse...
No matter who you prefer, though, THE PLAIN FACT IS THAT THE MANUFACTURER OF THE M&W CDI BOX SPECIFIES A 15 AMP FUSE TO PROTECT THEIR BOX. It's just common sense that if you're blowing the specified size fuse, you should go looking for the cause, not put in a bigger fuse...
Sep 16, 2009, 12:54 PM
#22
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ok, first of all, i didnt start this thread to turn it into the 'ignition wars'.
as for the wiring, it all looked good still. i chose to send it off instead of hacking it up since craig/sparktech offer lifetime on their wiring. which btw craig, ill be emailing you my tracking number so you know its mine when it shows up.
as for the wiring, it all looked good still. i chose to send it off instead of hacking it up since craig/sparktech offer lifetime on their wiring. which btw craig, ill be emailing you my tracking number so you know its mine when it shows up.
Sep 16, 2009, 01:10 PM
#23
to the OP only. i also have a spark tech PRO unit. i run it just as i got it in the mail a year or so ago. i just looked and i also have a 15A fuse. and never had an issue with it. maybe you have a grounding issue or something with the box is screwy. either way craig will take perfect care of the situation. he always does.
Sep 16, 2009, 01:47 PM
#26
Last year we sold over 250 M&W cdi's...this year we have already surpassed that. These cdi's are incredibly reliable. Do they fail? Of course...they are electronics.
Last year we returned 4 for repair out of the 250. 3 were warrantied. 1 was opened by the customer voiding the warranty and 1 was water damaged.
Thanks for the question
Last year we returned 4 for repair out of the 250. 3 were warrantied. 1 was opened by the customer voiding the warranty and 1 was water damaged.
Thanks for the question
Sep 16, 2009, 06:19 PM
#27
This is a good read and full of factual info. No need for caps just facts
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...o-hotline.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...o-hotline.html
Sep 17, 2009, 09:59 AM
#28
My first post was simple, put a 30 amp fuse in the system. Looking back on it, I should have been more clear because without upgrading the recommended wire size on the unit it is stupid to put a 30 amp fuse in the system.
Last edited by mitsuorder; Feb 21, 2012 at 01:04 PM. Reason: trying to get thread back to answers and away from drama.
Sep 17, 2009, 02:01 PM
#30
If people would follow an industry standard there wouldn't be much bickering.
This is the way MW says you should wire their boxes:
EDIT:
Looks like the 14AWG wire is sufficient for a 15A rating, with very little wire going to terminals 1 and 2 for the junction. Now BR says that they use a 30A fuse but also a larger diameter conductor. Is it needed? Probably not, it will just be easier to push the power through a larger conductor since your ohm/ft will drop up to the junction.
So my question to everyone who has fuses popping, how does the power wire feel? Is it brittle? Is the shielding turning white? Hard to bend?
This is the way MW says you should wire their boxes:
EDIT:
Looks like the 14AWG wire is sufficient for a 15A rating, with very little wire going to terminals 1 and 2 for the junction. Now BR says that they use a 30A fuse but also a larger diameter conductor. Is it needed? Probably not, it will just be easier to push the power through a larger conductor since your ohm/ft will drop up to the junction.
So my question to everyone who has fuses popping, how does the power wire feel? Is it brittle? Is the shielding turning white? Hard to bend?
Last edited by dryad001; Sep 17, 2009 at 02:29 PM.