2.3L Crankshafts?
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2.3L Crankshafts?
Hey all,
Just thought I would ask about crankshafts.
Basically, Im building a 2.3L with Carrillo Rods & CP Pistons. I have also got a stock mitsubishi crank.
I have been wondering, is it worth buying a forged crank or something before I start putting it together, or will the OEM crank suffice..?
What do you guys reccommend?
Just thought I would ask about crankshafts.
Basically, Im building a 2.3L with Carrillo Rods & CP Pistons. I have also got a stock mitsubishi crank.
I have been wondering, is it worth buying a forged crank or something before I start putting it together, or will the OEM crank suffice..?
What do you guys reccommend?
the stock crank rocks . I would say for anything up to 700whp stay with stock crank. there are better cranks but for twice the money. there should be some reliability benefits above 700hp. also cars that want to rev past 8000 may want to consider a better crank sooner.
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The only real reason I would want to go for a aftermarket crank, is for RPM, so if I ever upgrade to a larger turbo, I can rev to 8,000~8,500 RPM...
Also, aftermarket cranks tend to be knife edged and micro polished which can help.. surely?
Also, aftermarket cranks tend to be knife edged and micro polished which can help.. surely?
If you have the budget, get an aftermarket. An aftermarket like the K1 will weigh a bit less and is better for revs. They arent knife edged, but you can get them in a lightweight version.
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the other cranks are really expensive and in my eyes not worth all the money. i run a oem on my setup and have no problems. if you want to run higher rpms, just have the oem crank lightened and balenced. i also rev to 8.2k with no problems.
Last edited by wevo1985; Sep 27, 2009 at 05:28 PM.
Definitely reliable, worth the money if you can afford it and will make use of it. Less weight means you will get quicker revs. They should theoretically take more abuse. I would get the K1, I think the Tomei are more expensive.
The K1 cranks are Chinese forged, and while I'm not a fan of Chinese metallurgy, they seem to have a good reputation.
A very good friend of mine, who is a meticulous engine builder, is also a K1 dealer. His recommendation is to never run one straight out of the box, but to have the journals carefully checked for size and roundness, and to have the crank checked for balance. This advice comes because he has encountered irregularities.
As for your other questions (via PM), I see no real mechanical advantage in going to anything shorter than a 100mm stroke unless you go down to 94mm and use a custom, longer rod. And since that costs money, you'd be better off applying that money toward a better, more efficient turbo. This being the case, you're probably best off with the original plan (100mm stroke).
Given the proven durability of the Mitsu 100mm crank, I'd consider the K1 an optional expense.
A very good friend of mine, who is a meticulous engine builder, is also a K1 dealer. His recommendation is to never run one straight out of the box, but to have the journals carefully checked for size and roundness, and to have the crank checked for balance. This advice comes because he has encountered irregularities.
As for your other questions (via PM), I see no real mechanical advantage in going to anything shorter than a 100mm stroke unless you go down to 94mm and use a custom, longer rod. And since that costs money, you'd be better off applying that money toward a better, more efficient turbo. This being the case, you're probably best off with the original plan (100mm stroke).
Given the proven durability of the Mitsu 100mm crank, I'd consider the K1 an optional expense.
