The op is talking about a 9 turbo here not a fp green 20g so you can't compare...

 

I am not worried about hot air. My IATs are still very cool, down near ambient.

 

na thats what i had...it would still bleed off...it was the best but still bleed off.. ive installed probably 10-15 wastegates for customers and all have the same deal....we have the same problem as evo's w/ our stockers...in fact our stock turbo setups and stage 3 is made by mitsu..has the logos and name all over the turbo/manifold/and wastegate lol. ..mopar stage 3 does hold boost though...for the most part...lol.


yeah i know...the higest i put mine too was 26psi...aka a hair dryer...i did that w/ every fuel mod and i was switching to a 60trim the next week anyway lol

 

It worked fine for me when I had it

I have had great luck. I made 289 whp / 321 ft/lb on the stock turbo on 93 octane on my stock turbo SRT. 12.9 @ 109 with that car, back in 2004 God I miss that car.

I hold a bunch of neon records at our local track, I love those little ****boxes

 

this may be the route you should look @:

http://www.maperformance.com/map-sta...s-mvs-evo.html

 

That product would be great if I was getting boost-creep, but I am not, I am having the opposite problem

 

from the product description:

In this installment of our never ending quest for the perfect Evo downpipe we have utilized the new, ultra-compact 38mm MVS wastegate from TiAL Sport. Remove the internal wastegate flapper from your turbocharger, enlarge the wastegate discharge and bolt up one of these bad boys for the best boost control and elimination of boost creep available!

it helps greatly with boost taper. External wastegates have been proven to have far better control over boost and very little taper

 

i made 315whp on 93 back in the day w/ stock turbo...now on ported mopar stage 3 at 28PSI w/ full bolt ons hopefully making 410-430...aiming for mid 11's next season...still on stock clutch too! i actually bought a second srt-4 that was in a crash and putting it into a 02 base neon...look at that pos neon...o wait...is that a front mount? lol. then selling my real srt and saving up for a Evo IX SE or MR...got a great deal for a trade it from bridgewater acura around me ...might do it sooner than later if i can find a nice evo lol.

 

neonglh, do you know boost doesn't always equate to power... I mean why don't you just up timing to compensate for it! Boost isn't always the best solution..

 

Valid point, and that is what I used to do back in the day on my megasquirt projects, but we can only add so much timing safely with the pump 100 that I am using. I would prefer to combine more boost and timing to make more peak power.

I am already making 358/358 on a very low reading mustang dyno with this setup, but I need to get more power if I am going to go 10's.

 

We have seen this help hold the boost more solid many times. Stock frame turbos need a external wastegate to hold boost to redline or a welded flapper!

 

I totally understand. But when adding boost especially when it's a small turbo its out of its efficiency range and is blowing hot air and makes it inconsistent. So boost in this turn would not equate to more power but just more toqwue most likely! You might see some gains in the mid range. But nothing substantial.

 

Remember, I said above that my intake temps are still near ambient. I am not blowing hot air yet

 

I actually need to talk to you guys sometime. I have your downpipe/o2 housing open dump setup now with the 2.5" turn going into a 3" downpipe. You said your dyno testing showed this to make better power than the 3" version on the stock turbo, but I wonder if that still applies at my power level. If not, I may upgrade to a the 3" version.

 

intake temps don't mean the air entering the engine isn't hot... that means your intake is doing its job! If your over working the turbo it will make the air hotter period!