4g63 vs 4g64 - 2.0, 2.3, 2.4L ?
4g63 vs 4g64 - 2.0, 2.3, 2.4L ?
I am in the process of researching how I should build my motor to withstand more power and am considering the standard 4g63 2.0L build, a 2.3L stroker (4g63), and the 2.4L (4g64). The data and information I am looking for is whether the 4g64 can reliably hold boost and power - I seem to get very mixed feedback and have not found anything on here yet (yes I have searched) and whether the stroker really is great (strong mid range, but limited rev range).
My goals:
(1) Have a 3,500 rev + power band where whp is in excess of 400 (e.g. 4500 - 8000 rpm whp is greater than 400 ) - on a mustang dyno - peak HP should be close to mid to high 400's
(2) Achieve goals running 91 (I currently run Meth but it is a PITA and e85 is not really available)
(3) Make for a fun street car (ideally strong by 4,500 rpm)
Thanks in advance!
My goals:
(1) Have a 3,500 rev + power band where whp is in excess of 400 (e.g. 4500 - 8000 rpm whp is greater than 400 ) - on a mustang dyno - peak HP should be close to mid to high 400's
(2) Achieve goals running 91 (I currently run Meth but it is a PITA and e85 is not really available)
(3) Make for a fun street car (ideally strong by 4,500 rpm)
Thanks in advance!
Sounds like your thinking stock frame turbo considering your concerned about holding boost. One thing to keep in mind about strokers is they do have increased vibration.
I'd stick with 2 litre if I was gonna stay stock frame. I think the perfect Evo is a 2l and Green. It probably wouldn't make 400 on a Mustang on 91 alone though.
Red and 2.3l is next best choice.
2.4l and 4G64 is good but there are a number of little issues when using a 4G64 that I don't believe make it worthwhile unless you are running a large turbo that might like high rpm and therefore you car about the improved rod to stroke ratio.
I'd stick with 2 litre if I was gonna stay stock frame. I think the perfect Evo is a 2l and Green. It probably wouldn't make 400 on a Mustang on 91 alone though.
Red and 2.3l is next best choice.
2.4l and 4G64 is good but there are a number of little issues when using a 4G64 that I don't believe make it worthwhile unless you are running a large turbo that might like high rpm and therefore you car about the improved rod to stroke ratio.
^^ Actually I am open to the turbo options....I don't think the old green will meet my HP goals on 91....I have considered a 35 variant since it would be ball bearing and flow plenty of air....
I am in the process of getting a 2.0L BR shortblock with the new HTA green and right now, without the new bottom end, I am at 460/410 (dynoed last night). The new green is the perfect turbo for me, as I wanted the best street car also, really quick spool up, I hit full spool at or just after 3000 rpm and it holds boost all the way to redline. I am on E-85 however, so I am not sure what the comparison to meth would be like, but it should be somewhat comparable.
If going for something bigger like the Red, I would have gone with a 2.2L frame to increase the spool and make it more street-able. It is a really nice turbo with big gains, but I really wanted something that could take off fast. A 2.2 was still in the cards for me when shopping for a shortblock, however I just dont need it with this turbo and a reinforced 2.0 should be fine for this or a bigger turbo if i choose to switch.
If going for something bigger like the Red, I would have gone with a 2.2L frame to increase the spool and make it more street-able. It is a really nice turbo with big gains, but I really wanted something that could take off fast. A 2.2 was still in the cards for me when shopping for a shortblock, however I just dont need it with this turbo and a reinforced 2.0 should be fine for this or a bigger turbo if i choose to switch.
I didn't notice ANY vibration on my 97 GSX when I put the 2.4 crank in and yanked out the balance shafts! I did toss a fluidamper on at the time though! Had over 35k on it of a few pulls to just over 8k but peak power was dropping so no reason to over rev! For a street car go 2.3 or 2.4 strip or long highway pulls stick with a 2.0 just my .02
Team ZRP 2.3L stroker here with no vibration(balance shafts removed)
35R stock head 450AWHP on heart breaker Mustang
Turbo Lag is over rated, doesn't bother me one bit.(Full Boost 4500) Im making solid HP to 8000RPM. Car is DD.
35R stock head 450AWHP on heart breaker Mustang
Turbo Lag is over rated, doesn't bother me one bit.(Full Boost 4500) Im making solid HP to 8000RPM. Car is DD.
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I think that the person mentioning the vibrations with the 2.3 meant internal harmonics, not actual vibrations. A well built and balanced 2.3 with a good fluid damper is a great choice.
The 2.4 is a motor that we've had huge success with and can actually be made to respond very quickly and rev well.
I'm a big fan of the long rod 2.0. It's got a GREAT rod ratio and can really be wound out. All of the configurations discussed are good options and have their own benefits.
Chris, I almost think you should decide what kind of power you're really going to shoot for so you can chose the right motor to reach your needs. I'm always available to answer questions or I'd be more than happy to have you talk to Mike directly to share some ideas.
The 2.4 is a motor that we've had huge success with and can actually be made to respond very quickly and rev well.
I'm a big fan of the long rod 2.0. It's got a GREAT rod ratio and can really be wound out. All of the configurations discussed are good options and have their own benefits.
Chris, I almost think you should decide what kind of power you're really going to shoot for so you can chose the right motor to reach your needs. I'm always available to answer questions or I'd be more than happy to have you talk to Mike directly to share some ideas.
^ Thanks Marty! This is what I am looking to accomplish:
My goals:
(1) Have a 3,500 rev + power band where whp is in excess of 400 (e.g. 4500 - 8000 rpm whp is greater than 400 ) - on a mustang dyno - peak HP should be close to mid to high 400's
(2) Achieve goals running 91 (I currently run Meth but it is a PITA and e85 is not really available)
(3) Make for a fun street car (ideally strong by 4,500 rpm)
Thanks in advance!
My goals:
(1) Have a 3,500 rev + power band where whp is in excess of 400 (e.g. 4500 - 8000 rpm whp is greater than 400 ) - on a mustang dyno - peak HP should be close to mid to high 400's
(2) Achieve goals running 91 (I currently run Meth but it is a PITA and e85 is not really available)
(3) Make for a fun street car (ideally strong by 4,500 rpm)
Thanks in advance!
So you guys are saying changing the stroke from 88mm to 100mm doesn't have any effect on vibration? Seems odd to me. I started a thread about vibration and a lot of stroker owners confirmed the same thing. On my 2.4l I get a resonance between 3.5-4k rpm that was never there on my 2l.
I thought this was common knowledge but maybe my engine is special?
I thought this was common knowledge but maybe my engine is special?
Better than your typical T3 / 2l... but not very fast.

All strokers have some vibration to them, I havent seen one that didnt do something.
So you guys are saying changing the stroke from 88mm to 100mm doesn't have any effect on vibration? Seems odd to me. I started a thread about vibration and a lot of stroker owners confirmed the same thing. On my 2.4l I get a resonance between 3.5-4k rpm that was never there on my 2l.
I thought this was common knowledge but maybe my engine is special?
I thought this was common knowledge but maybe my engine is special?
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