When choosing an engine there are a lot of things you need to ask yourself. In order to make purchasing an engine from us easier I am going to attempt to put together some information to help with that choice.

First there are questions you have to ask yourself and the more honest you are with yourself the happier you will be. For example. What is my primary use of the car? Daily driver? Drag Racing? Road course? Autocross? Most of us drive our cars on the street more miles than we do at the track. How much more is what you have to ask yourself. Is a car with no low/mid range power something you want to deal with most of the time just so you can make 15 drag passes per year? Many people will answer YES to that and that's fine if being the fastest in the 1/4 mile is your priority. There are a lot of guys who use their cars for racing only. The car comes out of the garage to beat the crap out of or be hauled to the track, top end power and high RPM shifts are what they want. The main things to consider are:

1. What am I doing with this car?
2. How much time am I going to spend driving it around for just enjoyment?
3. How many RPM does the engine have to turn to accomplish the performance goal I have in mind?
4. How much horsepower do I plan to make 2 years from now? I say 2 years because horsepower goals always go UP.


Now before I outline the engines we offer I have to say there are other factors in all this. Cam choice plays a roll in the powerband. It isn't as drastic as the actual engine size but should be considered. Turbo choice is a HUGE factor, even more so than the engine size. You can run a 2 liter with a small turbo and have fantastic low/mid range. On the other hand you can run a 2.3 and go up in turbo size and have the same low/mid range. When deciding on the engine and the power band you want you will also have to consider the turbo to get the results you want.

We have been building 4G63 engines for over 20 years. In this time we've broken a lot of parts. When we see a part break we look at the reason it broke. From there if we determine it is a weakness in the part the part is re-designed. Some parts are sub-standard to begin with, used once and it is then determined the manufacturer has their head up their *** and that part is never used again. We have been through multiple crank shaft manufacturers over the years. We've tried many different piston and rod manufacturers. The companies that were willing to improve their product and develop custom parts for us is who we have stuck with. This has led to parts that are stronger and lighter than most any you can find elsewhere. Our shortblocks are offered "one way", the strongest and most proven way. You can buy an engine from us for your 400 whp project and know that next year when you decide 800+ whp is what you want the shortblock doesn't need to be touched!

Here are the engines we offer and a description of what to expect from each.

BR 2.0, This engine has proven itself so many times. It's gone as quick as 7.3's and as fast as 197 mph in the 1/4 mile. We offer this engine with both standard steel rods and optional aluminum rods. At power levels over 700 whp the 4G63 block has been known to split the cylinder walls. This can be solved by hardblocking the engine but then limits the use and street miles you can put on the engine. RPM limits have been pushed to over 10,000 rpm with this engine.

BR 2LR, This engine is a long rod (LR) version of the above 2 liter. The longer rod relieves some of the side loading of the piston and was developed to push the limits of the 4G63 block further with less risk of splitting a cylinder wall. Steel and optional aluminum rods are offered. RPM limits have been pushed to over 10,000 rpm with this engine.

BR 2.3, This engine uses a 4G63 block with a longer stroke. For a car that is primarily street driven there is no better choice. The recommend RPM limit is 8500. This limits the speeds that can be reached in the 1/4 mile on the stock gear ratio. 142 mph is about the max in 4th gear. There are other gearing options available. General rule of thumb is if you want to go much quicker than 9.90's this is not the engine you should chose. IF you want a FUN car to drive, do autocross or road racing this is absolutely your best choice. Available in steel rods only.

BR 2.3RPM, This engine has been developed for the guy who wants it all, ME! If your goal is to run faster than 9.90's, drive your car around daily and autocross it, then this is where you should be looking. The engine uses a billet crankshaft, steel rods, special lightweight pistons along with some other "tricks" to make it live at over 8500 rpm. Except for the die hard drag racer needing to run 10,000 rpm on a daily basis, this is the ultimate engine.

BR 2.4, This engine uses a 4G64 block with a stock 100 mm stroke crank. We recommend 8,000 rpm max with this engine. The engine requires no core and comes with an adapter for the water pump and a modified factory MLS head gasket. The 2.4 offers big low end power and torque, excellent for a daily driver, autocross use and of course drag use where the RPM doesn't need to be spun above 8,000 rpm. When you need an engine and are short a core this engine is a great place to start.

BR 2.4LR. Same basic build as above but with a longer rod in it, this engine can easily go to 8500 rpm. Great low end power/torque, excellent daily driver/autocross/drag use. No core required on this engine either as it uses the 4g64 block.

BR 2.1. This is a 4g64 block but it's destroyed using an 88 mm crank shaft. Great high rpm engine, offers more low end power than a 2.0/2.0LR and is comparable to the 2.3. We build these with steel or aluminum rods, the aluminum rod engines can see 10,000 rpm without issues. These are in a lot of high horsepower cars we've built with great success. No core required for this build either, making it a great option when you don't have a good one to supply.

 

Great write-up, thanks!

 

Thanks for all clear ups but as per previous email discussions with you - I'm heading towards a BR2.3RPM.

I just want to clear out all other parts before the motor as I don't want my motor sitting around built for too long.

 

All of our engines are painted, well lubed and then sprayed down with a thin film of protective lube. This helps prevent them from rusting. They are then put in a bag and wrapped completely with plastic wrap to seal them. They can be stored for quite a long time.

 

Definitely considering the 2.3 for next year.

My primary racing will be AutoX which the std 2.3 should work. I do quite a few road race events so the high rpm 2.3 sounds just as good.

What rough price difference would a person see between the std 2.3 and the high rpm 2.3?

 

I have a standard BR 2.0 with steel 300m rods. Seen couple boost spikes over 42 psi and still trucking along. Thanks for your awesome work

 

Great post about your lineup! Definitely helps out when looking at all the options you have to offer our community.

 

There's really no need for the 2.3RPM for road racing, 8500 rpm should be enough. That's what we had in Dieter's car, three years of Time Attack racing on it and he pulled it out and sold it to another guy who did well with it. That engine placed 3rd at the NASA National's in TTU.

Price difference between standard 2.3 and 2.3RPM is $850.

 

AWESOME david..this is why i will be coming to you for an engine build when it comes to it.

 

AMAZING write up! Very informative!

 

2.4LR gets me excited in my pants...Nice write up DB!

 

im planning to do a 2.0 build and i want to make around 750 whp for daily driving, will the cylinder walls crack? im doing .20 over bore. i also wanted to raise the compression so i can run less boost. im not sure what parts im going with yet but i know they will be good

 

Great idea!




-Em

 

Thanks alot David. Makes the decision that much easier.

 

You are about 3 weeks too late for me to change my direction. I'm going 2.4LR but I would've bought the 2.3RPM for sure. Oh well.

Great write up.

I guess you aren't a fan of the 2.2 motors. Very few seem to run them.