Choosing the right Buschur Racing engine for your build.
Mar 4, 2011, 08:55 AM
#32
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[QUOTE=davidbuschur;9126372]I don't want to sound like a dick BUT, as the title says, "Choosing the right Buschur Racing engine for your build". The last thing I want to do is tell people how to build an engine or what parts to choose.
As for the head work for the 2.4, we do it here, I think it's only about $150 for the basic work. There are a lot of guys not doing it and a lot of pr
I don't think your adick. I know a lot of people use your hard work of trial and error and benifit themselves. What can you do. BUT building motors isn't voodoo magic. I have ZERO intrest in building my own motor by picking your brain. I just had a question I was curious about. Besides it only took about 5mins to figure out what's actually done to the head which you speak of. I'm not attacking you at all, I know as an owner you can't give out every detail. Its like asking a cook his famous recipe!
As for the head work for the 2.4, we do it here, I think it's only about $150 for the basic work. There are a lot of guys not doing it and a lot of pr
I don't think your adick. I know a lot of people use your hard work of trial and error and benifit themselves. What can you do. BUT building motors isn't voodoo magic. I have ZERO intrest in building my own motor by picking your brain. I just had a question I was curious about. Besides it only took about 5mins to figure out what's actually done to the head which you speak of. I'm not attacking you at all, I know as an owner you can't give out every detail. Its like asking a cook his famous recipe!
Mar 4, 2011, 09:14 AM
#33
Evolving Member
BR 2.3RPM, This engine has been developed for the guy who wants it all, ME! If your goal is to run faster than 9.90's, drive your car around daily and autocross it, then this is where you should be looking. The engine uses a billet crankshaft, steel rods, special lightweight pistons along with some other "tricks" to make it live at over 8500 rpm. Except for the die hard drag racer needing to run 10,000 rpm on a daily basis, this is the ultimate engine.
When you say it can live over 8500rpm, do you mean that the motor should only occasionally see 9,000-9500rpm in instances of drag racing or can the motor always rev out this high on a day to day basis? I think this setup would be amazing with a HTA3586 for day to day/road racing and then also have a spare HTA3794R for when you want to go all out top end/drag race and rev the motor a bit higher for a better powerband.
Mar 4, 2011, 09:32 AM
#34
Sorry, been busy all morning.
Answers from Page 2 questions:
Yes, I will try to go 8's on this 2.3RPM engine.
SilverEVO, your mod list looks very good. I'm not a fan of any 02 dumps, that was the only part I didn't like.
kyooch, yes, a 2 liter build would be fine for what you are asking about but in my opinion a 2.3 would be even better. With a final goal of only 500 whp the standard stroker would be much more fun to drive and would have plenty of RPM left for the 1/4 mile.
Bluevo9, your question about available compression ratios. The basic answer is "yes" we can build the engine to about any compression you want. BUT the actuality of it is there is WAY-WAY too much time spent on worrying about it. We ran from 7.x:1 compression to around 12:1 compression. The difference in power is negligible and the difference in boost levels that can be run on pump fuel is also negligible. The biggest difference I can tell in raising compression is the feel of the car off boost. The engines feel better and accelerate better out of boost with the compression higher. So it makes for a nicer car to drive. On the dyno that difference is back to being negligible at WOT and under boost. All of our engines are built with fairly high compression. 10:1 and up is just about standard. I hate discussing it because the general attitude from customers is "OH MY IT'S TOO HIGH, LOOK OUT SHE'S GONNA BLOW!!! RUN RUN RUN" When that is simply not the case.
The DSM's came with 7.8:1 compression. We tried even less than that at one point, not good. Then we went to 8.5:1, then to 9.5:1 in all the DSM's. Everyone thought we were nuts 15+ years ago doing that. Now we are at 10:1+ and the engines are better than ever. I can tell you for a fact running 11.5:1 compression on 93-94 octane at 33-34 psi isn't a problem with the right set up and it's FAST!!!
Answers from Page 2 questions:
Yes, I will try to go 8's on this 2.3RPM engine.
SilverEVO, your mod list looks very good. I'm not a fan of any 02 dumps, that was the only part I didn't like.
kyooch, yes, a 2 liter build would be fine for what you are asking about but in my opinion a 2.3 would be even better. With a final goal of only 500 whp the standard stroker would be much more fun to drive and would have plenty of RPM left for the 1/4 mile.
Bluevo9, your question about available compression ratios. The basic answer is "yes" we can build the engine to about any compression you want. BUT the actuality of it is there is WAY-WAY too much time spent on worrying about it. We ran from 7.x:1 compression to around 12:1 compression. The difference in power is negligible and the difference in boost levels that can be run on pump fuel is also negligible. The biggest difference I can tell in raising compression is the feel of the car off boost. The engines feel better and accelerate better out of boost with the compression higher. So it makes for a nicer car to drive. On the dyno that difference is back to being negligible at WOT and under boost. All of our engines are built with fairly high compression. 10:1 and up is just about standard. I hate discussing it because the general attitude from customers is "OH MY IT'S TOO HIGH, LOOK OUT SHE'S GONNA BLOW!!! RUN RUN RUN" When that is simply not the case.
The DSM's came with 7.8:1 compression. We tried even less than that at one point, not good. Then we went to 8.5:1, then to 9.5:1 in all the DSM's. Everyone thought we were nuts 15+ years ago doing that. Now we are at 10:1+ and the engines are better than ever. I can tell you for a fact running 11.5:1 compression on 93-94 octane at 33-34 psi isn't a problem with the right set up and it's FAST!!!
Mar 4, 2011, 09:36 AM
#35
danavon7, I do not expect the 2.3RPM engine to live running it to 9500 rpm on a daily basis. I hope it proves me wrong but reality is most combination's have NO business even close to 9500 rpm. I've seen VERY-VERY few cars that even make power past 7500. I always laugh at the shootout during the dyno competition. Everyone wants me to take their car to 8,000+ rpm. I tell everyone of them, I'll run it to 7,000 first, if it's still making power I'll run it higher the next one. It's RARE I need to go past 7500 to find out the car is done making power. If you need an engine to run 9500 rpm daily (and you probably don't) then a 2.0 or 2.1 is the engine you need to look at.
This engine I'm running, the 2.3RPM, was built so I can give a crack at running 8's. It won't see over 8500 rpm until the day it goes to the track to attempt that goal.
This engine I'm running, the 2.3RPM, was built so I can give a crack at running 8's. It won't see over 8500 rpm until the day it goes to the track to attempt that goal.
Mar 4, 2011, 04:09 PM
#40
David built me an 11.5-1 2.0 for my Talon, made 650 at 30psi on 93 octane and hauled ***, made 811 and 672 tq at 34psi on E85, the engine won the BR import event last spring with a 9.1@160 and is in another car that won the Quick 8 class last fall at the DSM shootout, hasn't been apart yet and is still running strong today.
Mar 4, 2011, 05:31 PM
#41
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thanks for the write up! one question though, on your build i saw you added the cosworth crank scraper. Is the 2.3rpm going to come with the crank scraper? if not will there be an option to have that put in and for how much? thanks!
Mar 4, 2011, 07:07 PM
#42
Thanks Curt! Can't wait to dyno your 2.3RPM again Tuesday!
The crank scraper and pan are both optional. The crank scraper will be more than the cost of just the scraper because it's not even close to fitting on a stroked engine, probably $100 additional fee to make it fit.
The crank scraper and pan are both optional. The crank scraper will be more than the cost of just the scraper because it's not even close to fitting on a stroked engine, probably $100 additional fee to make it fit.
