It is possible to install the Buschur Intercooler and still keep the factory splash shield. A few strategic cuts, and about an hour with the heat gun and burned fingers and it can be made to fit. I probably could make the contours a little cleaner with some more work, but the smell was getting bad in the garage.

 

Good Job bro I was to try the same thing glad it can be done!!

 

Thanks, it is pretty stable also. by flattening the raised portion that attached to the stock intercooler, you create a lip that goes on top of the rolled underside of the fascia. It is as solid as the factory set-up.

 

This is great info! More details for the mechanically challenged among us sir.

 

Philip is a very smart and crafty fella. I like dealing with him. Everytime I talk to him he seems to teach me something new. Good job Philip! If you need anything give me a holler!

 

Afterwards it hit me I should have taken pics, but I did not. Two of the three pieces require modification. I would start with the larger section first, so that it can be used as a template when altering smaller center section.

The factory pieces have an upswept section that previously attached to the factory IC. These are where the conflict arises with the BR IC. The plastic used can be made quite malleable using a regular heat gun. However, the square corners can not be manipulated easily, and so that is where cuts must be made.

Basically you want to make cuts to allow the upswept area to be a flat panel. Changing its shape will then be relatively easy. Once the curves are straightened out, you will notice in essence you have created a lip that will rest on the top of the lower bumper lip, effectively holding the panel.

The approx. 1" front edge that was the extension on both the large and center sections will need to be cut off.

In order to clear the 90 degree sweep IC inlet pipe, the stand off mount in that area will have to be cut to match the contour of the pipe. Leave a little clearance, since that pipe section has the potential to melt the plastic to itself if you don't allow a gap.

Once you have done the large panel, and confirmed it mounts, you can heat the center section and form it to roughly match the contour. Again, there will need to be some cutting done of the 90 degree corners.

As far as what to use for forming the semi-molten plastic, I don't recommend using your hands. I did this, and it is not fun. Anyone who has worked with molten plastic knows that it has a propensity to adhere to many things, so just try to choose something like a polished metal surface that won't adhere. Of course then you have to be careful since that will be a darn good heat sink. I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel for the small cuts, since it can fit in the corners. 60 grit will allow you to quickly clean up the rough edges after cutting.

Yeah, I know this is probably one of those "useless without pics" posts, but there is no way now I can take "during mod" photos. Feel free to PM me, and I'll try to provide a better explanation for anyone who is interested.

 

Thanks Jarrod, same gos for every time I call you guys. Looking forward to the turbo kit come spring.

 

Nice job, I hope I can do the same job one day here soon!!

 

Can you pull your modified one off, send it to Dave Buschur so he can copy your idea? Then he could do a "core exchange" on the splash guard and other vendors would have one less thing to target

Keith