Awesome thread.

I would recommend using the 18psi actuator and run the EBC NC instead of NO. It helps spoolup like no body's business!

 

Nice write up Dan , and thanks for the comments on 9sec9's car, it's all in the details. I bet people were shocked to see the full interior in that car. Too bad the engine tossed a rod before they started stepping it up, but hey things happen. The engines coming out today, and is going to the new engine builder later this week. We hope to be back at it very soon.

I know you will get the results your looking for with this combination of parts. It's great to see another Wilson 2.3+ out there with the FP Black. That makes three so far, and another that's getting ready to run in PR very soon. You, 9sec9, FP's test car, and Javier Monroig in PR. Heck the earlier 2.2 version was good enough for DB to run his best ET 9.04 at MPH 159 and change last year. All the new ones from Wilson are updated to 9sec9's spec now so it should get interesting as people get their cars dialed in. Pretty impressive with just a modified OEM intake.

A couple months back when there were only two of the FP Black's Tom had been driving the car around town dialing in the tune, after he got back and called me and said it was a winner, then the dyno showed the potential, and the track results verified what we knew for months ago. This could possibly be the last turbo upgrade needed. Robert, Scott and everyone a Forced Performance should be damn proud of what they have done!

I started on your renderings for the new box, give me a call when you free up, I'd like to run a couple of ideas past you.

I'll pass on this thread to the boys in the cast manifold shop, and thanks again. Indy

 

does it look like the fp-black is a better pump gas turbo then the fp-red??

 

You need to watch your tq numbers when pushing the Black on the stock motor. I know of 3 people that have blown their motors over the past couple months. All on stock motors!

1) 510hp/480tq HTA Green (rod through block)
2) 550hp/490tq Red (rod through block)
3) 500hp/500tq HTA Green (2 rods went through the block!)

I think the limit on the rods are 450tq safely. There are a few people, a select few that are running over 500tq and still have their rods in the block but they are on borrowed time. One of these people I don't believe is actually running a stock block, though he claims...

You could reach 600hp easy with the Black and I think the motor would stay together... However I would try to keep the tq down to mid 400s. I'm not sure that you can keep tq below 450 on the black.

I Personally would like to see what the Black does on 30psi before you start turning the boost up to the sky.

 

Wouldn't they be close to the same since the Red is supposedly in the efficiency range at 30 psi ???

 

Ever since the FP Black was introduced and people have been testing it at 40#, I have been wondering if of the two(Black vs. Red) the Red might not be the better pumpgas option, especially on a stock bottom end.

I fantasize about a The FP Black for a pump+Meth street setup, but I know that I´d at least have to do drop-in rods and pistons as well as a heavy duty clutch to run high boost levels.

From the limited comparative testing done so far, are the Red and Black about even powerwise at 30-32 PSI?

 

I'll put that to rest in the next week or so on the same Mustang dyno that FP uses for testing. In a word, no they will not be exactly the same.

I expect to be running it around 28-30psi on pump gas, it depends on what the engine wants. Having been there to watch the FP test-car dyno I know what it will make at 30psi on 104 unleaded, and I know what it will make at 35psi on C-16. My car is setup almost the same as Robert from FP's. The answer is probably "Less than it made at 30psi on 104 unleaded", but I'm not sure how much less.

As an update on the car, the clutch discs are going in right now and my Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors, Bosch -044, and Weldon fuel pressure regulator are going on as well. I have one last issue to solve before the turbo goes on the car, I'm trying to decide what to do with the o2 housing/downpipe. Right now I'm running a stock o2 housing and a downpipe I got from TTP 2 years ago. I'd like to switch it over to a 3" tubular o2 housing but no one makes one. I talked to JM Fabrications today about having one made. We'll see.

Jim, I'll give you a call about the intake project.

Thanks,
Dan

 

Good luck with everything Cant wait to see how it all turns out.

 

Good luck. Can't wait to see some graphs!

 

.

I have one

 

Yeah, I've seen R/TErnie's parts but have not approached him to make me one. Honestly I think this is a part that is overlooked by most EVO owners. There is a lot of power to be had there with large bolt on turbos, and most of the o2 housings/downpipes available for bolt on turbos suck.

The best combination I've seen with off the shelf parts is the Works cast o2 housing and downpipe. Problem is they are overpriced and currently the o2 housing is on backorder. The MAP o2 housing/downpipe (eliminator) looks ok, but I don't want to deal with having a 1-piece setup. Having to remove the AC compressor to install/remove your downpipe is not what I'm looking for. I approached them about doing one with v-bands to separate the pieces and was told it's impossible. Perhaps they should talk to R/TErnie .

I'm hoping that JMF will step up to the plate and make some (hint hint).

 

And as we can all see it is possible. Eric and I are working on some new stuff that should be interesting and we are also throwing around the idea of a 3.5" housing and downpipe. That would be awesome with the ETS 3.5" exhaust system. That would be a nice setup on a Black

Mikey

 

I know it's possible, this isn't my first 4g63 powered car. I was kind of leaving that realization up to the reader instead of trying to word everything so carefully as to not offend MAP. Looks like you aren't too worried about that though.

I don't know if there's enough room on the flange to do 3.5". When talking to JMF they said even getting 3" on there was a bit tight. However I haven't made one before so I'm certainly no authority on the matter. 3.5" would work very well if you could package it correctly - i.e. no need to remove the AC compressor for install (i.e. MAP's part) and enough clearance for everything to pass the transfer case, and oil pan. I suspect the undercar braces would have to go with 3.5" piping though.

D

 

I should keep my trap shut when I have had mucho Corona´s , however, what the heck! Robert F. hinted at the relatively small, 3¨DP diameter being the limiting factor with the FP Black turbo in a post on this or another thread about the Black. On his particular car the total system back pressure in the DP limits the Black´s power potential.

He hit the nail on the head, IMO. The turbine housing´s exducer opening flows into the O2 hsg and then into the DP, so the relatively tight bend radius and smallish I.D. of the O2 hsg and DP at 3¨are a limiting factor, as the total backpressure is too high.


He went and adapted a Tial WG onto the DP, not to improve WG flow but to relieve DP pressure. The excess backpressure was not allowing sufficient exit flow out through the turbine housing´s exducer opening. So, as I understand it, his Tial WG is not functioning as a WG per se. It is actually a ¨sort of downpipe bypass valve as it is mounted AFTER the actual wg.

 

Robert is using the Works o2 housing & downpipe. The solution is either more flow, or to dump the wastegate to atmosphere. Even with Robert's setup as described above the Motec was logging a substantial amount of pressure in the downpipe.

That's why I'm going through this exercise .