Notices
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain Everything from engine management to the best clutch and flywheel.

Amsoil Users...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 18, 2010 | 06:57 AM
  #16  
apagan01's Avatar
Account Disabled
iTrader: (299)
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,863
Likes: 5
From: digging for oil
Originally Posted by evoballer
Im about to switch from Mobile 1 to Ams oil and there are so many types! what do you recommend? im leaning towards the Ams Dominator Oil. I am running around 38psi also.
it sounds like for your mods RD 10W30 is a good choice, or Heavy Dutty Diesel HDD 5W30
Reply
Old Dec 18, 2010 | 07:21 AM
  #17  
420a-t's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 735
Likes: 1
From: Idaho Falls, ID
Since Amsoil is a good synthetic that lasts a long time, what reason does anyone have running a 5-30 or 10-30 over a 0-30 oil if you're changing it every 3k?

Thanks
Reply
Old Dec 18, 2010 | 07:37 AM
  #18  
hotshot1's Avatar
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
From: southeast wi
so how long would you recommend running the dominator oil before changing it? i currently change mine every 3k am i wasting my money?
Reply
Old Dec 18, 2010 | 08:45 AM
  #19  
apagan01's Avatar
Account Disabled
iTrader: (299)
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,863
Likes: 5
From: digging for oil
Originally Posted by hotshot1
so how long would you recommend running the dominator oil before changing it? i currently change mine every 3k am i wasting my money?
you are doing it right 3K change interval.

if you ran the AMO 10W40 or ATM 10W30 you could easilly go to 6K
Reply
Old Dec 18, 2010 | 04:53 PM
  #20  
BluEVOIX's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (69)
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,115
Likes: 61
From: FL
Originally Posted by apagan01
Correct,

you will see drop in MPG, power with a thicker oil,,, i highlly reccomend you stay with an oil thats high in zinc and phos, you have an FP turbo however i am not sure if the green has the steel breaings on steel shaft, call FP and find out.

If you plan on running the oil at higher drain intervals then go with SSO 0W30,,,, but i would opt for HDD hands down this oil is high in zinc and phos and has the low viscocity for this winter, reason i say is simply because the type of turbo you have.


let me know if you have any other questions,,,, i hope i helpped
The HTA Green has steel on brass. Either way I would be changing the oil at around 3k mark regardless of the oil I run. I guess the HDD is the way to go. I rather have more zinc and phos than not enough, even if mine doesnt have the steel on steel.
Reply
Old Dec 19, 2010 | 04:08 PM
  #21  
Jeffs2006EVOIX's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 485
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Apagan01, would you agree that an oil with a higher flashpoint would be less likely to leave deposits on lets say the turbo journals? Example. If you have an oil that has a flashpoint of 430F vs one with 460F same weight oil, the higher flash point would be the better oil to use in a turbo application? To prevent "coking" as much as possible.

Diesel oils are very popular in the Subie community where many run Shell Rotella 5/40. Diesal oils are a great alternitive I agree, but IMO the Amsoil Dominator 10/30 is probably the ticket if your an Evo owner running a stock block. If your running a built bottom end, then the Dominator 15/50 would be the ticket.

There are other oils I can mention, but this is an Amsoil Thread, I am not here to start anything, haha. The Dominator Oil is good stuff
Reply
Old Dec 19, 2010 | 04:23 PM
  #22  
boostedwrx's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (27)
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,034
Likes: 2
From: Seattle, WA
Loving the 10w40 Amsoil here.
Reply
Old Dec 23, 2010 | 06:45 AM
  #23  
apagan01's Avatar
Account Disabled
iTrader: (299)
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,863
Likes: 5
From: digging for oil
Originally Posted by 420a-t
Since Amsoil is a good synthetic that lasts a long time, what reason does anyone have running a 5-30 or 10-30 over a 0-30 oil if you're changing it every 3k?

Thanks
for temp reasons, you might be in a colder area than my car, 0W30 willl give you better cold start capabilities on the other hand AMSOIL 0W30 is a long term oil it can be ran up to 10K without issues,, there is a guy in here with an evo 9 that ran it that long he posted the oil analysis to back up his claim.
Reply
Old Dec 23, 2010 | 07:22 AM
  #24  
apagan01's Avatar
Account Disabled
iTrader: (299)
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,863
Likes: 5
From: digging for oil
Originally Posted by Jeffs2006EVOIX
Apagan01, would you agree that an oil with a higher flashpoint would be less likely to leave deposits on lets say the turbo journals? Example. If you have an oil that has a flashpoint of 430F vs one with 460F same weight oil, the higher flash point would be the better oil to use in a turbo application? To prevent "coking" as much as possible.

Diesel oils are very popular in the Subie community where many run Shell Rotella 5/40. Diesal oils are a great alternitive I agree, but IMO the Amsoil Dominator 10/30 is probably the ticket if your an Evo owner running a stock block. If your running a built bottom end, then the Dominator 15/50 would be the ticket.

There are other oils I can mention, but this is an Amsoil Thread, I am not here to start anything, haha. The Dominator Oil is good stuff
Jeff
Yes higher flash point has many advantages, one of them is to leave less deposites on the turbo and internals,
however keep in mind that the base stock used in the AMSOIL fluids being a fully synthetic will not release much or any at all simply because of the molecular structure there is not carbons in the oil simply because there is no petrolium base stock, AMSOIL is purely synthetic no petrolium base stocks,,

However when you start going into the semi-synthetics or para-synthetics which are most or i will venture to say all off the shelf oils found in stores then flash point becomes an issue, these para-synthetics have carbon molecules that are releasd during extreme heat produced by the 4G63 and its turbo specially if you are running an FP red black or green or anything bigger, much heat is produced here.

However remember flash point must NOT be the only apsect of an oil where you should be looking at.

Yes diesel oils are a great option, however AMO 10W40 has over 1300 PPM in zinc and phos therfore much better oil than most diesel oils, diesel oil AMSOIL carries in a 5W40 form the HDD

yes if you have an evo that you are running hard RD Racing Dominator 10W30 or 15W50 is your ticket hands down.

Last edited by apagan01; Dec 23, 2010 at 07:25 AM.
Reply
Old Jan 21, 2011 | 07:24 PM
  #25  
4VsofFury's Avatar
Newbie
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: USA
Originally Posted by apagan01
Not necessary with synthetics these days because of how well they hold up to temp.

For example SSO 0W30 its flash point is 446 F leading me to say it would do very well at those temps.
The flash point is irrelevant, if you're worried about viscosity protection at high temps look to the oil's HTHS (high temperature/high shear) viscosity. This is the single most important data point to look at when evaluating how an oil will maintain viscosity under extreme heat and shear, the type of conditions seen in main & rod bearings and piston rings.

There are 30 weights available that offer greater high temp viscosity than 0W-40s and 5W-40s. A thicker SAE viscosity doesn't always equate to greater oil thickness in the main/rod bearings at high temps.

Last edited by 4VsofFury; Jan 21, 2011 at 07:26 PM.
Reply
Old Jan 21, 2011 | 07:31 PM
  #26  
4VsofFury's Avatar
Newbie
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: USA
Originally Posted by Jeffs2006EVOIX
Apagan01, would you agree that an oil with a higher flashpoint would be less likely to leave deposits on lets say the turbo journals? Example. If you have an oil that has a flashpoint of 430F vs one with 460F same weight oil, the higher flash point would be the better oil to use in a turbo application? To prevent "coking" as much as possible.
It would only matter if the oil sees flash point temperature, and would also depend on how "cleanly" the oil actually burns. Most motor oils, even in unadditized form, burn "dirty".

Here's an example of how the cleanly the various base oils burn.


Last edited by 4VsofFury; Jan 21, 2011 at 07:47 PM.
Reply
Old Jan 21, 2011 | 07:37 PM
  #27  
4VsofFury's Avatar
Newbie
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: USA
Originally Posted by apagan01
however keep in mind that the base stock used in the AMSOIL fluids being a fully synthetic will not release much or any at all simply because of the molecular structure there is not carbons in the oil simply because there is no petrolium base stock, AMSOIL is purely synthetic no petrolium base stocks,,
PAO is not a clean burning lubricant, see the picture above.
Reply
Old Jan 22, 2011 | 07:02 AM
  #28  
apagan01's Avatar
Account Disabled
iTrader: (299)
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,863
Likes: 5
From: digging for oil
Originally Posted by 4VsofFury
PAO is not a clean burning lubricant, see the picture above.
Did i ever mention PAO in my post, NOP i do not think so, so please dont put words where they dont fit.
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2011 | 11:17 AM
  #29  
4VsofFury's Avatar
Newbie
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: USA
Originally Posted by apagan01
Did i ever mention PAO in my post, NOP i do not think so, so please dont put words where they dont fit.
You said Amsoil, and since Amsoil formulates with PAO base stocks in their oils (except for their XL and OE lines which use group III), what else could you have meant?

If in doubt about Amsoil's use of PAO, look to Amsoil's own logo:
Reply
Old Apr 26, 2011 | 05:10 PM
  #30  
BuBBasEVO's Avatar
Evolving Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: New York
i was thinking about switching over to AMSOIL but I dont know which one to go with. I have a CBRD BBk full turbo running 25PSI making around 385hp.. Stock block and stock head.. which one do i go with?
Reply



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:24 PM.