turbo questions
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From: Cincy, OH
I dont know, just search around in the marketplace under evom sponsers. for the price of getting a new wastegate actuator($80-150), plus a electric boost controller $$$, you can just get some slicks and run full psi in 1st and 2nd.
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From: Cincy, OH
well, i do need it to be street friendly. and, 12psi is probably more than i'll need in any gear for now anyway. i'm also a little woried about the boost creep issues too.
^ just get the regular 11psi actuator or you can convert it to a tial 38mm wastegate that why you won't have any boost creep problems. If you have any questions on how to convert to 38mm ask and I'll explain it for you.
The 11psi stock actuator will prob boost 12psi and may creep because of flow but porting the flapper mouth will help a lot and externally dumping the wastegate will help too. Here is a pic of my setup in case you have not seen it on the forum.
The 11psi stock actuator will prob boost 12psi and may creep because of flow but porting the flapper mouth will help a lot and externally dumping the wastegate will help too. Here is a pic of my setup in case you have not seen it on the forum.
Looks nice man.
You also shouldnt have boost creep like a evo on the stock wastegate actuator as you have a 1.8l not 2.0l so less exhaust gas is being expelled by your engine. Just port the wastegate flapper and call it a day.
You also shouldnt have boost creep like a evo on the stock wastegate actuator as you have a 1.8l not 2.0l so less exhaust gas is being expelled by your engine. Just port the wastegate flapper and call it a day.
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From: Cincy, OH
waitin to hear back from my tuner on what he thinks about the wga situation.
back to the water cooled part...
on my radiator inlet/upper hose housing there is a bleeder valve that could be tapped and ran to the turbo. question is, since that is where the hot coolant is expelled from the engine, would that be bad/too hot? should i tap it from a spot that wouldn't see as much pressure/heat from it? like the smaller intake mani line? what you guys think? it seems like it would work perfect!
back to the water cooled part...
on my radiator inlet/upper hose housing there is a bleeder valve that could be tapped and ran to the turbo. question is, since that is where the hot coolant is expelled from the engine, would that be bad/too hot? should i tap it from a spot that wouldn't see as much pressure/heat from it? like the smaller intake mani line? what you guys think? it seems like it would work perfect!
Why even water cool it? You only need oil to cool it, the water was just a factory thing. It may help run the turbo a little cooler but look at people running 42r just oil cooled, water isnt needed. But if you insist, i know on 3g's people would run the lines from the throttle body to the turbo instead of to the throttle body.
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From: Cincy, OH
- i would run water lines as it will make the turbo run alot cooler therefore making it last longer
- stock wg is .5bar(imsure you will run some sort of boost controller.)
-as for the o2 side. youll want to fab up a 1 piece downpipe. (google 16g flange) do not use a 02 housing. your also not the 1st person to put a 16g on a b series. hope this helps.
- stock wg is .5bar(imsure you will run some sort of boost controller.)
-as for the o2 side. youll want to fab up a 1 piece downpipe. (google 16g flange) do not use a 02 housing. your also not the 1st person to put a 16g on a b series. hope this helps.
I've searched but cant find any similar builds that are recent enough for the pics to still be working....
so, how abouts should i go with the downpipe? where to put my o2 sensor then? and why not use the o2 housing?
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From: Cincy, OH
been a while.. but she's running like a champ!
turbo is water cooled from the intake mani
welded a 3" downpipe right to the aftermarket o2 housing
in fear of too much boost from the stock WGA, I'm running a Forge w/ low psi spring and a MBC
making 238wtq @ 4200 rpm and 236whp @ 6200 rpm on 11 psi
it's fun for now, I've got it to go a best of 12.8 @ 110 on street tires. still building a motor on the side for more boost down the road
and now once again i have a "turbo question". since having this together people are always asking what "trim" or "a/r" the turbo is. what i've figured up is that it's something like a 50-56 trim with a a/r of .71??
turbo is water cooled from the intake mani
welded a 3" downpipe right to the aftermarket o2 housing
in fear of too much boost from the stock WGA, I'm running a Forge w/ low psi spring and a MBC
making 238wtq @ 4200 rpm and 236whp @ 6200 rpm on 11 psi
it's fun for now, I've got it to go a best of 12.8 @ 110 on street tires. still building a motor on the side for more boost down the road
and now once again i have a "turbo question". since having this together people are always asking what "trim" or "a/r" the turbo is. what i've figured up is that it's something like a 50-56 trim with a a/r of .71??
Last edited by BryanEG6; Jun 26, 2011 at 10:04 PM.
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From: Cincy, OH
all i've found is ((CM x 8) - 7) / 100=a/r ratio. I've got the 9.8cm which is .714 a/r. but your average "A/R .70" is much bigger, right?? or are they just usually mated to much bigger compressor sides?
