4088r on a 2.0?
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From: milwaukee, wi
4088r on a 2.0?
I searched and couldnt really find anything! I found a few on stroked motors but no 2.0's! Any reason behind this? Im tryind to deciede between a 2.0 and 2.3 and would like to see some results on a 2.0 before i make the decision.
^ just some food for thought a 2.2 long rod high comp (10:0) with a Twin Scroll 4094 would be dope 
And by the way you are not suppose to post in this thread unless you have a dyno graph.
Mikey

And by the way you are not suppose to post in this thread unless you have a dyno graph.
Mikey
Well obviously the reason behind it is because more displacement spools the turbo faster so most people will stroke when using a big turbo like that.
You can use a 2.0L but because it won't spool as quickly as a 2.3L, you're going to have to rev it out more to stay in boost. From what I've seen, the 2.3L is more reliable since you're not revving the **** out of it. If it was me, I would keep the 2.0L and have it rev to 9.5k-10k. I come from Hondas and my RSX revved up to 9k straight from the factory. I'm a sucker for high revving motors...
Your choice though...
You can use a 2.0L but because it won't spool as quickly as a 2.3L, you're going to have to rev it out more to stay in boost. From what I've seen, the 2.3L is more reliable since you're not revving the **** out of it. If it was me, I would keep the 2.0L and have it rev to 9.5k-10k. I come from Hondas and my RSX revved up to 9k straight from the factory. I'm a sucker for high revving motors...
Your choice though...
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From: milwaukee, wi
Well obviously the reason behind it is because more displacement spools the turbo faster so most people will stroke when using a big turbo like that.
You can use a 2.0L but because it won't spool as quickly as a 2.3L, you're going to have to rev it out more to stay in boost. From what I've seen, the 2.3L is more reliable since you're not revving the **** out of it. If it was me, I would keep the 2.0L and have it rev to 9.5k-10k. I come from Hondas and my RSX revved up to 9k straight from the factory. I'm a sucker for high revving motors...
Your choice though...
You can use a 2.0L but because it won't spool as quickly as a 2.3L, you're going to have to rev it out more to stay in boost. From what I've seen, the 2.3L is more reliable since you're not revving the **** out of it. If it was me, I would keep the 2.0L and have it rev to 9.5k-10k. I come from Hondas and my RSX revved up to 9k straight from the factory. I'm a sucker for high revving motors...
Your choice though...
Last edited by n2oiroc; Dec 6, 2009 at 10:40 PM.
if you are worried about drivetrain, you need to pick another turbo. This turbo will make insane power, and pretty much everything needs to be addressed if you want to get the most out of it. Also if considering a 2.3 then money will not have to be a factor. There have been a couple of builds where that get the 2.3 then put a big turbo on it without addressing the other necessary mods and suddenly they have a nice expensive driveway ornament.
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if you are worried about drivetrain, you need to pick another turbo. This turbo will make insane power, and pretty much everything needs to be addressed if you want to get the most out of it. Also if considering a 2.3 then money will not have to be a factor. There have been a couple of builds where that get the 2.3 then put a big turbo on it without addressing the other necessary mods and suddenly they have a nice expensive driveway ornament.
You can reach the same numbers as the STI with a LOT smaller turbo. I'm making 546/506 with a GT30R, methanol injection, STOCK bottom end, STOCK head minus BC 264/272 cams, and ARP head studs, Trust t1-r exhaust, 31 psi, AEM EMS, and a AMS tune. I currently have the stock tranny/transfer case, and have a ACT HDSS clutch and streetlite flywheel. I would suggest if you like the numbers the STI made, go to AMS's website (amsperformance.com) and check out the GT35R kit, a good exhaust, and a tune. Also go with methanol injection. This will be in the neighborhood of around $10,000 in parts and labor, and will have you at your old numbers.
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From: milwaukee, wi
I want a bit more than i had, 500+ on 93 and 650 or so on good gas. I already have a ton of parts, just need to build a motor, pick cams and a couple other things.
Parts i have:
4088r
hydra 2.6 (from my sti, getting it setup for an evo)
full-race twinscroll t4 manifold
precision 1,200 injectors
fuelab pump, regulator and filter
fuel rail and -8 feed lines
l19 head studs
cam gears
ets 4" intercooler
other misc stuff.
Parts i have:
4088r
hydra 2.6 (from my sti, getting it setup for an evo)
full-race twinscroll t4 manifold
precision 1,200 injectors
fuelab pump, regulator and filter
fuel rail and -8 feed lines
l19 head studs
cam gears
ets 4" intercooler
other misc stuff.
Last edited by n2oiroc; Dec 6, 2009 at 11:57 PM.
I have a 2L evo 9 built for 11 000RPM with a 4088 - my shop car with lots of love and time spent on getting it there. One of my customers has a 2,3 bushur block with a 4088 and he wanted a good street car not a drag/track car.
The 2L is more of a track car as it will be laggy for the raod where as the 2,3L is more suited to daily driver and occasional drag car. In fact the 2,3 with a 4088 TS spools faster than the 2L with a 3076R single scroll using a .64AR!!!
Both are very powerful combinations and you may need new transmission bits very fast...lol.
The 2L is more of a track car as it will be laggy for the raod where as the 2,3L is more suited to daily driver and occasional drag car. In fact the 2,3 with a 4088 TS spools faster than the 2L with a 3076R single scroll using a .64AR!!!
Both are very powerful combinations and you may need new transmission bits very fast...lol.
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^^also to add onto what a few people have said. The 4088 generates a butt load of torque, more than say a 35R or a 3586. So if you try and launch that 4088 with 600+ ft lbs of torque your axles may go also. Seen this on a 35R also and when they go they usually take other things with them like T/C and diffs. Those are another $2100 for front and rear axles.
I have a ETS 4088R and I love it. Hardly any lag and pulls like a train. I also have it on a built 2.3.
My suggestion is to look into that Buschur built 2.4 high reving motor. He is letting the motor rev to 9000 rpm's. That should be high enough for "most" people's needs.
You will be very happy with this turbo. I promise. I am. The car is a beast on the street but you also need a fully built one to get all the power out of it. So a built motor, built tranny, built Transfer case, axles That right there if done correctly is around 15-20K.
I have a ETS 4088R and I love it. Hardly any lag and pulls like a train. I also have it on a built 2.3.
My suggestion is to look into that Buschur built 2.4 high reving motor. He is letting the motor rev to 9000 rpm's. That should be high enough for "most" people's needs.
You will be very happy with this turbo. I promise. I am. The car is a beast on the street but you also need a fully built one to get all the power out of it. So a built motor, built tranny, built Transfer case, axles That right there if done correctly is around 15-20K.
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What do i need exactly for the drivetrain? Dss axles and send the transfer case and trans to shep? Anything else besides a good clutch? Like i said before i dont plan on launching it much at all, but when i do i will give the clutch just enough slip to take the shock off the drivetrain.
Last edited by n2oiroc; Dec 7, 2009 at 03:41 PM.
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Yup DSS is fine, AMS sells them also. I was very fortunate and found a shop parting out their race car that had them. But I was hunting the For sale section for a few months till I found them.
Ya Shep tranny's work, I think TRD does them also and they do a great job also. Then there is Jacks Transmissions here in Colorado. He does high HP trannys and TC and a bunch of other things and that is what I have and most of the high HP in the state run a Jacks Transmission. He stands behind his work. Check out his site jackstransmissions.com.
An exedy HD twin is what I have. You can find them on here for like 1450 or so and that should be good. Skip a ACT or a center force, don't even bother with them. When you are looking at clutches though remember that they are rated by Torque not HP. For example they can hold 450 ft lbs of torque. But your car is making 550 hp and 400 ft lbs, then you would be ok.
Figure around 4k for a tranny w/ clutch and a built T/C.
Axles like I said are like $2100, Well they are $4-500 for the rears and $15-1600 for the fronts.
Ya Shep tranny's work, I think TRD does them also and they do a great job also. Then there is Jacks Transmissions here in Colorado. He does high HP trannys and TC and a bunch of other things and that is what I have and most of the high HP in the state run a Jacks Transmission. He stands behind his work. Check out his site jackstransmissions.com.
An exedy HD twin is what I have. You can find them on here for like 1450 or so and that should be good. Skip a ACT or a center force, don't even bother with them. When you are looking at clutches though remember that they are rated by Torque not HP. For example they can hold 450 ft lbs of torque. But your car is making 550 hp and 400 ft lbs, then you would be ok.
Figure around 4k for a tranny w/ clutch and a built T/C.
Axles like I said are like $2100, Well they are $4-500 for the rears and $15-1600 for the fronts.


