WORKS VS Dynoflash theory of tuning
Originally posted by Evo11V
I dont really unstand how you say, "dyno tuning subjects the cars to grossly unrealistic load conditions" What do you mean by this? I dont see how on a dyno you are not able getting realistic load conditions. You can clearly see HP differences on a dyno chart. Meaning if you gain 50whp you will definatly feel a huge difference when driving, and in respect see a change in your 1/4 mile times, and track times. I'm not saying your wrong I just dont understand your theory. Please explain this more.
I dont really unstand how you say, "dyno tuning subjects the cars to grossly unrealistic load conditions" What do you mean by this? I dont see how on a dyno you are not able getting realistic load conditions. You can clearly see HP differences on a dyno chart. Meaning if you gain 50whp you will definatly feel a huge difference when driving, and in respect see a change in your 1/4 mile times, and track times. I'm not saying your wrong I just dont understand your theory. Please explain this more.
You guys are on the same page.
Some suggested by works are temperature/air flow is much different than real driving conditions, and you are only dynoing in one gear. Another that crossed my mind, is if you tune in mid summer, you might be "off" quite a bit in cooler/drier conditions (maybe the car adjust for that, I dunno) - again, I am a novice and so am only raising questions.
Originally posted by shiv@vishnu
In my experience, custom tuning will ALWAYS yield more power than using a standard baseline map. In other words, if a baseline map is worth 30whp, custom tuning may be worth another 5-10whp. Or at least that has been the trend on our out-of-state dyno days. While baseline maps err on the side of conservatism, they have been shown to provide repeatable gains. This comes from testing a lot of cars under a lot of conditions.
The notion that dyno tuning is anything less-than-critical for optimal performance is wrong on many levels. IMHO, anyone who suggest that dyno tuning subjects the cars to grossly unrealistic load conditions is either using a inappropriate dyno and/or doesn't know how to properly test a car holding all else equal. Like any tool, you just have to know how to use it. Without using it, tuning is a lot harder (and much more guesswork) than it needs to be.
My 2c,
shiv
In my experience, custom tuning will ALWAYS yield more power than using a standard baseline map. In other words, if a baseline map is worth 30whp, custom tuning may be worth another 5-10whp. Or at least that has been the trend on our out-of-state dyno days. While baseline maps err on the side of conservatism, they have been shown to provide repeatable gains. This comes from testing a lot of cars under a lot of conditions.
The notion that dyno tuning is anything less-than-critical for optimal performance is wrong on many levels. IMHO, anyone who suggest that dyno tuning subjects the cars to grossly unrealistic load conditions is either using a inappropriate dyno and/or doesn't know how to properly test a car holding all else equal. Like any tool, you just have to know how to use it. Without using it, tuning is a lot harder (and much more guesswork) than it needs to be.
My 2c,
shiv
Originally posted by tyrotrader
Some suggested by works are temperature/air flow is much different than real driving conditions, and you are only dynoing in one gear. Another that crossed my mind, is if you tune in mid summer, you might be "off" quite a bit in cooler/drier conditions (maybe the car adjust for that, I dunno) - again, I am a novice and so am only raising questions.
Some suggested by works are temperature/air flow is much different than real driving conditions, and you are only dynoing in one gear. Another that crossed my mind, is if you tune in mid summer, you might be "off" quite a bit in cooler/drier conditions (maybe the car adjust for that, I dunno) - again, I am a novice and so am only raising questions.
OK, I don't know crap, but, if my plugs aren't gapped properly, I want them fixed rather than allowed for. If they're allowed for, what happens if a tech fixes the gap or, God forbid, my plugs get replaced at their normal service interval, or just because?
That being said, I'll always agree that a flash specific to my engine and on a dyno will always be better than a mail-order flash.
BUT... I don't live in CT. I'm in Illinois. My atmospheric conditions are different.
I want my damn custom flash to allow for the climate and conditions in which I drive!
I mean, you know, in a perfect world and all... *laugh*
That being said, I'll always agree that a flash specific to my engine and on a dyno will always be better than a mail-order flash.
BUT... I don't live in CT. I'm in Illinois. My atmospheric conditions are different.
I want my damn custom flash to allow for the climate and conditions in which I drive!
I mean, you know, in a perfect world and all... *laugh*
Originally posted by KazzEvo8
OK, I don't know crap, but, if my plugs aren't gapped properly, I want them fixed rather than allowed for. If they're allowed for, what happens if a tech fixes the gap or, God forbid, my plugs get replaced at their normal service interval, or just because?
That being said, I'll always agree that a flash specific to my engine and on a dyno will always be better than a mail-order flash.
BUT... I don't live in CT. I'm in Illinois. My atmospheric conditions are different.
I want my damn custom flash to allow for the climate and conditions in which I drive!
I mean, you know, in a perfect world and all... *laugh*
OK, I don't know crap, but, if my plugs aren't gapped properly, I want them fixed rather than allowed for. If they're allowed for, what happens if a tech fixes the gap or, God forbid, my plugs get replaced at their normal service interval, or just because?
That being said, I'll always agree that a flash specific to my engine and on a dyno will always be better than a mail-order flash.
BUT... I don't live in CT. I'm in Illinois. My atmospheric conditions are different.
I want my damn custom flash to allow for the climate and conditions in which I drive!
I mean, you know, in a perfect world and all... *laugh*
Originally posted by silverEVO8
Well, it should be simple to check and regap or replace plugs as needed before getting a reflash and tune..... As far a living in IL, I'm sure that if you find enough other guys who are interested in getting this service, some tuner or vendor will be happy to come to you.... That's what we are trying to do here in Atlanta.
Well, it should be simple to check and regap or replace plugs as needed before getting a reflash and tune..... As far a living in IL, I'm sure that if you find enough other guys who are interested in getting this service, some tuner or vendor will be happy to come to you.... That's what we are trying to do here in Atlanta.
Here is a stock evo that was making power in the mid 220's with a rough power band - my base line stock flash brough him up to 230's but super rough In order to test out Shiv's lovely theory - we just left his plugs alone and poured in some 116 octane race fuel into his tank - not surpizingly his issues went away immeditely and he was right in the power range we expect with the base flash
At least on this chaps Evo - the spark plugs were NOT a problem - it was fuel related
In the comming weeks we will test out Shiv's theory on all the stock evos we find which are low in power and see what we find is the cause of the low power
At least in the first case it was not low boost of sparg pulg gap
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Uh.. Ah?
See that big dip in the midrange? Yes, the one that is *still* there on race gas? Yes, that is ignition retard caused by misfire. That shouldn't be there.
Shiv
See that big dip in the midrange? Yes, the one that is *still* there on race gas? Yes, that is ignition retard caused by misfire. That shouldn't be there.
Shiv
Originally posted by shiv@vishnu
Uh.. Ah?
See that big dip in the midrange? Yes, the one that is *still* there on race gas? Yes, that is ignition retard caused by misfire. That shouldn't be there.
Shiv
Uh.. Ah?
See that big dip in the midrange? Yes, the one that is *still* there on race gas? Yes, that is ignition retard caused by misfire. That shouldn't be there.
Shiv
This also was not the final tune on this car - it was the base map done before and after the introduction of the race fuel
BTW - we had one other car earlier in the day which presented a difficult challenge to make power without detonation. We tried your suggestion and removed the plugs and they all were in perfect condition. The root cause was again BAD FUEL which made extracting more power than stock very difficult. By making numerous corrections to timing and running the car very rich we finallhy were able to get some good power gains. It was simply the tune that was needing careful adjustment and NOTHING to do with plugs.
Finally - we sure wish the answer could be as easy as "tuning" the knock sensor - however - we feel the knock protection is a very good feature on these cars and would not alter of adjust it in any way - even if it means loosing out on a few extra hp.
I realaize is must be a great challenge to tune the 91 octane cars without turning down the knock sensor - but that is not an option we care to follow.
Originally posted by shiv@vishnu
So all those big midrange dips are on purpose?
So all those big midrange dips are on purpose?
here is s representative tune of our end results
Of this one - not a bad power band I think?
Just because you make major power does not mean it has to be a rough power band
Maybe when you get a stage 2 together we can compare powerbands ?>
Just because you make major power does not mean it has to be a rough power band
Maybe when you get a stage 2 together we can compare powerbands ?>
Al nice work bud. I was working and unable to see you yesterday. I really wanted to run her again to see what she can do with the boost at 23psi. But let me know when your free again.
As always keep up the good work.
As always keep up the good work.



