basic stock turbo mods... I dont want an intake.
Samco uses metal fittings I am not sure what perrin uses.
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
mrfred's cardboard cold air box
There are four pieces total:
1) Top/back cover
2) "Left" side
3&4) Two lower pieces.
Hope these pics are good enough explanation. My guess is that this setup blocks about 90-95% of the heated engine air. Pretty good for the price of a box and a few hours of cutting and fitting. My plan is to paint the cardboard with urethane rubber paint. That ought to make it waterproof, insulate against heat a little better, and make the pieces last quite a long time. If anyone is wondering, the cold air box does reduce the turbo spool noise a bit.
Airbox top/back cover installed - Note that it wedges under the right fender sheet metal by about 1/8".

Airbox top/back cover removed showing cutouts for wiring harness and hoses on the back side of the cover.

"Left" side showing cutouts for air filter and stock cold air duct.

The two bottom pieces - Both serve to block hot air coming off the radiator. They are just wedged in there by virtue of a snug fit against hoses, brackets, and body panels.
1) Top/back cover
2) "Left" side
3&4) Two lower pieces.
Hope these pics are good enough explanation. My guess is that this setup blocks about 90-95% of the heated engine air. Pretty good for the price of a box and a few hours of cutting and fitting. My plan is to paint the cardboard with urethane rubber paint. That ought to make it waterproof, insulate against heat a little better, and make the pieces last quite a long time. If anyone is wondering, the cold air box does reduce the turbo spool noise a bit.
Airbox top/back cover installed - Note that it wedges under the right fender sheet metal by about 1/8".

Airbox top/back cover removed showing cutouts for wiring harness and hoses on the back side of the cover.

"Left" side showing cutouts for air filter and stock cold air duct.

The two bottom pieces - Both serve to block hot air coming off the radiator. They are just wedged in there by virtue of a snug fit against hoses, brackets, and body panels.
Last edited by mrfred; Apr 26, 2010 at 08:31 PM.
mrfred,
Thanks for the pictures. Are you using anything to push the filter to the back (closer to the battery) to clear the ACD? Or you are usint the same cardboard to keep the filter/MAF in place?
Out of curiosity are you using the stock rubber intake hose? Have you done ant VDR logs with this setup?
Thanks for the pictures. Are you using anything to push the filter to the back (closer to the battery) to clear the ACD? Or you are usint the same cardboard to keep the filter/MAF in place?
Out of curiosity are you using the stock rubber intake hose? Have you done ant VDR logs with this setup?
Last edited by racer135; Apr 19, 2010 at 09:56 AM.
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,675
Likes: 132
From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
mrfred,
Thanks for the pictures. Are you using anything to push the filter to the back (closer to the battery) to clear the ACD? Or you are usint the same cardboard to keep the filter/MAF in place?
Out of curiosity are you using the stock rubber intake hose? Have you done ant VDR logs with this setup?
Thanks for the pictures. Are you using anything to push the filter to the back (closer to the battery) to clear the ACD? Or you are usint the same cardboard to keep the filter/MAF in place?
Out of curiosity are you using the stock rubber intake hose? Have you done ant VDR logs with this setup?
Haven't done any VDR logs yet, but I'm sure the box is working and will be beneficial.
You can use either a Beatrush Intake Box (S93055CB) from 500whp or a Apexi Induction Box (517-M002) from Vividracing or others......
I have a post on MLR about Evo intake filter size if you wanna look.....
http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=296528
I have a post on MLR about Evo intake filter size if you wanna look.....
http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=296528
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,675
Likes: 132
From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
The Beatrush item is more of a heat shield from air coming directly off the radiator rather than a true cold air box. The intake will still suck in plenty of hot air.
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,675
Likes: 132
From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
There are four pieces total:
1) Top/back cover
2) "Left" side
3&4) Two lower pieces.
Hope these pics are good enough explanation. My guess is that this setup blocks about 90-95% of the heated engine air. Pretty good for the price of a box and a few hours of cutting and fitting. My plan is to paint the cardboard with urethane rubber paint. That ought to make it waterproof, insulate against heat a little better, and make the pieces last quite a long time. If anyone is wondering, the cold air box does reduce the turbo spool noise a bit.
Airbox top/back cover installed - Note that it wedges under the right fender sheet metal by about 1/8".

Airbox top/back cover removed showing cutouts for wiring harness and hoses on the back side of the cover.

"Left" side showing cutouts for air filter and stock cold air duct.

The two bottom pieces - Both serve to block hot air coming off the radiator. They are just wedged in there by virtue of a snug fit against hoses, brackets, and body panels.

1) Top/back cover
2) "Left" side
3&4) Two lower pieces.
Hope these pics are good enough explanation. My guess is that this setup blocks about 90-95% of the heated engine air. Pretty good for the price of a box and a few hours of cutting and fitting. My plan is to paint the cardboard with urethane rubber paint. That ought to make it waterproof, insulate against heat a little better, and make the pieces last quite a long time. If anyone is wondering, the cold air box does reduce the turbo spool noise a bit.
Airbox top/back cover installed - Note that it wedges under the right fender sheet metal by about 1/8".

Airbox top/back cover removed showing cutouts for wiring harness and hoses on the back side of the cover.

"Left" side showing cutouts for air filter and stock cold air duct.

The two bottom pieces - Both serve to block hot air coming off the radiator. They are just wedged in there by virtue of a snug fit against hoses, brackets, and body panels.

I really wish there were more option out there for something like this. I have resisted a small battery kit and i've tried hard to keep my AEM intake for this very reason. I did a lot of testing awhile back and found that the use of some sort of heat shield that allowed the use of the stock snorkel, decreased IATs at the MAF sensor drastically. Without some sort of heat shield, the intake heatsoaks fast and when you aren't using the stock snorkel, it's even worse.
Good job man.....now go make a few out of aluminum and i'll buy one.
No way you'll make 350 whp DJ with a essentially a TBE (with test pipe) and a tune. LICP helps a bit, but you'll need cams to get there.
I've not seen any gains on the street when switching from a stock intake box with a Works drop-in and vented cover to an amsoil cone filter. It appears that the improved airflow is being offset by higher intake temps due to sucking in hot air from the radiatior. Once I get an airbox built around the filter, I expect the story will change a bit. BTW, during off-boost driving with a cone filter, there is no intake sucking sound.
I've not seen any gains on the street when switching from a stock intake box with a Works drop-in and vented cover to an amsoil cone filter. It appears that the improved airflow is being offset by higher intake temps due to sucking in hot air from the radiatior. Once I get an airbox built around the filter, I expect the story will change a bit. BTW, during off-boost driving with a cone filter, there is no intake sucking sound.
I second the request for aluminum or at least a pattern layout of the dimensions and what it looks like off the car and ill do it. I would def like to try and cover some of those holes but that is pretty nice.
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