Pics of my Xede maps (MAF and Timing)
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From: Seattle, WA
As always thanks for your input and advice Shiv!
Do you maybe want to set up a dyno meet here in Redmon, WA? Im sure I could get tons of cars to show up. We will just have to talk to Dyno Authority and see if its cool.
Its the only 4wd dyno in Washington as I believe...
Do you maybe want to set up a dyno meet here in Redmon, WA? Im sure I could get tons of cars to show up. We will just have to talk to Dyno Authority and see if its cool.
Its the only 4wd dyno in Washington as I believe...
Originally posted by shiv@vishnu
As for the maps, they look fine. While I've never had to add that much fuel between 2000-3000rpm (which is before full boost is reached), if it works for you, it's all good. Next time you're one the dyno, you might want to play around with your ignition mapping if you're in the hunt for more power. For starters, select the entire on-boost cells above 4000rpm (in your timing table) with your mouse and hit the increase key (>) twice and re-dyno. This will increase timing in 0.3 deg increments. Keep doing it until you see knock sensor activity. This will result in power loss on the dyno run since the ECU will pull back timing. If you want to get deeper into it, you can move up the rpm band in 500rpm increments (or at each rpm breakpoint) and find the max allowable ignition advance. Once optimized at all engine speeds, this will result in the most power output. Once complete, it's always a good idea to do a few full sweep on the dyno, back to back with no more than 10 seconds of cooldown to make sure it stands up well to the heatsoak you may see on the street in bad conditions. You'll find that these cars respond well to timing tweaks moreso than fuel mapping. The "allowable" window for fueling is pretty big and easy to get into. Timing, on the other hand, requires a good deal of tuning finesse to extract max power. But then again, at 310whp, you're certainly not hurting
Cheers,
shiv
As for the maps, they look fine. While I've never had to add that much fuel between 2000-3000rpm (which is before full boost is reached), if it works for you, it's all good. Next time you're one the dyno, you might want to play around with your ignition mapping if you're in the hunt for more power. For starters, select the entire on-boost cells above 4000rpm (in your timing table) with your mouse and hit the increase key (>) twice and re-dyno. This will increase timing in 0.3 deg increments. Keep doing it until you see knock sensor activity. This will result in power loss on the dyno run since the ECU will pull back timing. If you want to get deeper into it, you can move up the rpm band in 500rpm increments (or at each rpm breakpoint) and find the max allowable ignition advance. Once optimized at all engine speeds, this will result in the most power output. Once complete, it's always a good idea to do a few full sweep on the dyno, back to back with no more than 10 seconds of cooldown to make sure it stands up well to the heatsoak you may see on the street in bad conditions. You'll find that these cars respond well to timing tweaks moreso than fuel mapping. The "allowable" window for fueling is pretty big and easy to get into. Timing, on the other hand, requires a good deal of tuning finesse to extract max power. But then again, at 310whp, you're certainly not hurting
Cheers,
shiv
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