hey all,

I have searched and read up on all the causes and different reasons why the car might be stalling. A little background on what happens: the car starts fine and idles fine upon startup. Once in gear and some gas is applied, if I disengage the clutch, the car will stall (reverse included). The car will drive fine but when I let off the gas when the car is moving it sometimes feels like there is no engine breaking occurring. Then when I come to a stop light/sign, the RPM will get below 1K like it is about to stall if I do not apply some gas to counter. I even have to give it gas twice sometimes.

1 thread mentioned that the clutch might not be disengaging properly if the car is moving forward with the clutch pedal down. I have checked to make sure that the switch is properly engaged when the pedal is down and the switch is pressed. I have checked my vacuum lines to make sure that they are all connected and they are. The lines coming from my MBC are not zip tied, but are on there pretty tight. I haven't tuned since I put on the QR BPV, but my tuner and I will get together tomorrow to see if tweaking the timing will affect anything. I have yet to conduct any boost/vacuum leak tests as that will be the next step after the tune.

There is one thing I found that might have an affect that I wanted your opinions on. My intake has 3 inlets: 1 I am using to recirc the air from BPV, 1 is connected to the engine head via hose, and 1 little nipple is not in use and covered by a rubber thing. When I took apart my intake I discovered that the one that isn't in use, the rubber cover is ripped due to rubbing against a hose and is exposed now. The exposed nipple is after the MAF. Now could this play a part in the stalling?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

bump. any thoughts?

 

do a boost leak test... then see where you are at.

 

+1. and if you DON'T Do a boost leak test before your Dyno, you are pissing that money away!!

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...s-go-read.html

 

odd question but what turbo and what compressor housing are you using. I have noticed a re-occuring trend with this issue on cars with large turbos and ported compressor housings. My theory is that the cooasting compressor is stalling or disrupting the MAF signal somehow. From research i have done if you are using a maf you want atleast 4 inches of distance between the MAF and turbo for every inch of inlet you have. For instance, if you have a 4 inch inlet you need to have the MAF 16 inches away from the turbo, there is definitely no room for this but it is ideal.