Buschur Racing Dual Stage Boost controllers!!
Buschur Racing Dual Stage Boost controllers!!
Finally!!! After a very long wait time we are now offering our Dual Stage Boost controllers again!!
We released these a few years ago and then had a hard time getting/pricing the solenoids from Parker. I'm glad to say we finally have them again.
Our dual stage controller uses a Parker 3 way solenoid, this is no $20 imported piece of crap. We use only a high end solenoid so you can rely on it working for the life of your car.
I have changed the design slightly from our original to further up the quality of the product. The kits will come complete with AN push lock hose ends on it. You can then simply use your standard vacuum line on the fittings or use a push lock hose such as Earl's ultra lite like I use. You will see it in the picture below. The boost controllers are mounted "rigid" to the solenoid rather than running short runs of hoses between inlet/outlet nipples, as you will see it makes for a very clean installation.
The kits are complete with both boost controllers, one for low, one for high, the solenoid, mounting bracket, AN fittings, arming switch and wiring.
Here are a few things to know. The boost controllers are billet aluminum and use a stainless steel spring, ceramic ball and are anodized in black. This dual stage controller can be used with most ECU's to trigger the high/low settings. We've used it with great success for controlling boost right after launch. This is done by simply triggering the high boost at the speed you want it to switch. So you have low boost in first gear and when you hit 2nd the controller will switch to high.
Obviously it's also very handy to have for running pump gas, E85 and race gas to switch from low to high boost levels.
The boost controllers will allow you to run about 2 psi over wastegate pressure for your low setting and for high, the sky and your head gasket is the limit! No need to change springs in these controllers.
The picture below is the unit mounted in the Bad Bish, my RS, and has been in use for about 3 years. I don't know how many of these we sold previously but I proudly say we've never had a reported failure of any type.
The kit as it will come shipped to you:
The price on these, complete will be $350.
We released these a few years ago and then had a hard time getting/pricing the solenoids from Parker. I'm glad to say we finally have them again.
Our dual stage controller uses a Parker 3 way solenoid, this is no $20 imported piece of crap. We use only a high end solenoid so you can rely on it working for the life of your car.
I have changed the design slightly from our original to further up the quality of the product. The kits will come complete with AN push lock hose ends on it. You can then simply use your standard vacuum line on the fittings or use a push lock hose such as Earl's ultra lite like I use. You will see it in the picture below. The boost controllers are mounted "rigid" to the solenoid rather than running short runs of hoses between inlet/outlet nipples, as you will see it makes for a very clean installation.
The kits are complete with both boost controllers, one for low, one for high, the solenoid, mounting bracket, AN fittings, arming switch and wiring.
Here are a few things to know. The boost controllers are billet aluminum and use a stainless steel spring, ceramic ball and are anodized in black. This dual stage controller can be used with most ECU's to trigger the high/low settings. We've used it with great success for controlling boost right after launch. This is done by simply triggering the high boost at the speed you want it to switch. So you have low boost in first gear and when you hit 2nd the controller will switch to high.
Obviously it's also very handy to have for running pump gas, E85 and race gas to switch from low to high boost levels.
The boost controllers will allow you to run about 2 psi over wastegate pressure for your low setting and for high, the sky and your head gasket is the limit! No need to change springs in these controllers.
The picture below is the unit mounted in the Bad Bish, my RS, and has been in use for about 3 years. I don't know how many of these we sold previously but I proudly say we've never had a reported failure of any type.
The kit as it will come shipped to you:
The price on these, complete will be $350.
Last edited by David Buschur; Mar 10, 2010 at 02:08 PM.
I've had mine on my car for almost 2 years now without issues.
I even had it wired into the AEM and setup to switch from low to high boost based on speed. Allows you to come out of the hole at low boost and as soon as you shift into 2nd gear, BAM 45PSI!!
I even had it wired into the AEM and setup to switch from low to high boost based on speed. Allows you to come out of the hole at low boost and as soon as you shift into 2nd gear, BAM 45PSI!!
Dave, have you set one of these up to be triggered from an aquamist? Would be a cool setup I think, mebbe I should go back to MBC's 
I still really really think a MBC should have a locking nut on it (or lock of some type). It is just too easy to bump these or adjust them, only to have the hose be twisted and cause the unit to twist back to nearly where it was.
I still really really think a MBC should have a locking nut on it (or lock of some type). It is just too easy to bump these or adjust them, only to have the hose be twisted and cause the unit to twist back to nearly where it was.
Finally!!! After a very long wait time we are now offering our Dual Stage Boost controllers again!!
We released these a few years ago and then had a hard time getting/pricing the solenoids from Parker. I'm glad to say we finally have them again.
Our dual stage controller uses a Parker 3 way solenoid, this is no $20 imported piece of crap. We use only a high end solenoid so you can rely on it working for the life of your car.
I have changed the design slightly from our original to further up the quality of the product. The kits will come complete with AN push lock hose ends on it. You can then simply use your standard vacuum line on the fittings or use a push lock hose such as Earl's ultra lite like I use. You will see it in the picture below. The boost controllers are mounted "rigid" to the solenoid rather than running short runs of hoses between inlet/outlet nipples, as you will see it makes for a very clean installation.
The kits are complete with both boost controllers, one for low, one for high, the solenoid, mounting bracket, AN fittings, arming switch and wiring.
Here are a few things to know. The boost controllers are billet aluminum and use a stainless steel spring, ceramic ball and are anodized in black. This dual stage controller can be used with most ECU's to trigger the high/low settings. We've used it with great success for controlling boost right after launch. This is done by simply triggering the high boost at the speed you want it to switch. So you have low boost in first gear and when you hit 2nd the controller will switch to high.
Obviously it's also very handy to have for running pump gas, E85 and race gas to switch from low to high boost levels.
The boost controllers will allow you to run about 2 psi over wastegate pressure for your low setting and for high, the sky and your head gasket is the limit! No need to change springs in these controllers.
The picture below is the unit mounted in the Bad Bish, my RS, and has been in use for about 3 years. I don't know how many of these we sold previously but I proudly say we've never had a reported failure of any type.
The price on these, complete will be $350.
We released these a few years ago and then had a hard time getting/pricing the solenoids from Parker. I'm glad to say we finally have them again.
Our dual stage controller uses a Parker 3 way solenoid, this is no $20 imported piece of crap. We use only a high end solenoid so you can rely on it working for the life of your car.
I have changed the design slightly from our original to further up the quality of the product. The kits will come complete with AN push lock hose ends on it. You can then simply use your standard vacuum line on the fittings or use a push lock hose such as Earl's ultra lite like I use. You will see it in the picture below. The boost controllers are mounted "rigid" to the solenoid rather than running short runs of hoses between inlet/outlet nipples, as you will see it makes for a very clean installation.
The kits are complete with both boost controllers, one for low, one for high, the solenoid, mounting bracket, AN fittings, arming switch and wiring.
Here are a few things to know. The boost controllers are billet aluminum and use a stainless steel spring, ceramic ball and are anodized in black. This dual stage controller can be used with most ECU's to trigger the high/low settings. We've used it with great success for controlling boost right after launch. This is done by simply triggering the high boost at the speed you want it to switch. So you have low boost in first gear and when you hit 2nd the controller will switch to high.
Obviously it's also very handy to have for running pump gas, E85 and race gas to switch from low to high boost levels.
The boost controllers will allow you to run about 2 psi over wastegate pressure for your low setting and for high, the sky and your head gasket is the limit! No need to change springs in these controllers.
The picture below is the unit mounted in the Bad Bish, my RS, and has been in use for about 3 years. I don't know how many of these we sold previously but I proudly say we've never had a reported failure of any type.
The price on these, complete will be $350.
About locking the unit down. It does not LOCK down BUT the way it is built now the wye comes after both controllers and with the AN ends it can NOT twist. You have to use a 9/16" wrench to losen the AN fitting, make your adjustment and then tighten the AN fitting back down. So now it can't turn, it's not as easy to adjust as just pulling the vacuum line off but it is now more locked down. If need be, we can do a short video to show what I am talking about.
I have not looked one of these up to an Aquamist, never used or tuned an Aquamist. I would think it would be fairly simple to do though. My guess is the Aquamist runs high boost while it is activated and if it fails for some reason shuts the boost off. If that's the case you'd run the car on high boost and have the Aquamist kill the circuit in the case if fails and it would run on the low controller.
We did this on the SMC kits but not as a safety feature. We used the boost controller arming switch to turn the SMC alky kit on, which also put the boost on high. If you turned the switch off the alky kit was also turned off.
I have not looked one of these up to an Aquamist, never used or tuned an Aquamist. I would think it would be fairly simple to do though. My guess is the Aquamist runs high boost while it is activated and if it fails for some reason shuts the boost off. If that's the case you'd run the car on high boost and have the Aquamist kill the circuit in the case if fails and it would run on the low controller.
We did this on the SMC kits but not as a safety feature. We used the boost controller arming switch to turn the SMC alky kit on, which also put the boost on high. If you turned the switch off the alky kit was also turned off.
Trending Topics
Good idea on having to loosen the AN fitting to adjust; some sort of locking mechanism on a MBC makes me feel much more comfortable. I installed your regular inline MBC on a car once and had to use quite a bit of Teflon tape on the threads to keep it tight enough to not self-adjust.
About locking the unit down. It does not LOCK down BUT the way it is built now the wye comes after both controllers and with the AN ends it can NOT twist. You have to use a 9/16" wrench to losen the AN fitting, make your adjustment and then tighten the AN fitting back down. So now it can't turn, it's not as easy to adjust as just pulling the vacuum line off but it is now more locked down. If need be, we can do a short video to show what I am talking about.
I have not looked one of these up to an Aquamist, never used or tuned an Aquamist. I would think it would be fairly simple to do though. My guess is the Aquamist runs high boost while it is activated and if it fails for some reason shuts the boost off. If that's the case you'd run the car on high boost and have the Aquamist kill the circuit in the case if fails and it would run on the low controller.
We did this on the SMC kits but not as a safety feature. We used the boost controller arming switch to turn the SMC alky kit on, which also put the boost on high. If you turned the switch off the alky kit was also turned off.
I have not looked one of these up to an Aquamist, never used or tuned an Aquamist. I would think it would be fairly simple to do though. My guess is the Aquamist runs high boost while it is activated and if it fails for some reason shuts the boost off. If that's the case you'd run the car on high boost and have the Aquamist kill the circuit in the case if fails and it would run on the low controller.
We did this on the SMC kits but not as a safety feature. We used the boost controller arming switch to turn the SMC alky kit on, which also put the boost on high. If you turned the switch off the alky kit was also turned off.
Does the solenoid run on 5v or 12v? The Aquamist has a 5v output for failsafe; currently I have this wired into my stock ecu for mapswitching and it uses a GM BCS to control the boost (more info here), but I suppose this 5v could go to the solenoid as well as the ecu input for switching boost at the same time as switching fuel/timing maps.
Hrm, mebbe a summer project.
The solenoid is 12V.
It is IMPOSSIBLE for the boost controller to self adjust, not this one or our standard design with the nipples. There is a vacuum hose on both ends of the controller, you take one side of the vacuum hose off the controller, adjust the controller and then put the hose back on. You can NOT adjust boost with the vacuum lines on obviously because then the hose twists and when you let go it un-twists. The vacuum line is what is designed to lock the boost controller, the vacuum line is not going to twist itself, so it keeps the boost controller set where you left it.
Yes, 05ah8james, the kit comes with a switch and that is the point, to switch between high and low boost levels.
Thanks for posting that picture Slorice. That is how the kits were built/sold previously, with our standard inline controllers with the nipples built into the ends.
It is IMPOSSIBLE for the boost controller to self adjust, not this one or our standard design with the nipples. There is a vacuum hose on both ends of the controller, you take one side of the vacuum hose off the controller, adjust the controller and then put the hose back on. You can NOT adjust boost with the vacuum lines on obviously because then the hose twists and when you let go it un-twists. The vacuum line is what is designed to lock the boost controller, the vacuum line is not going to twist itself, so it keeps the boost controller set where you left it.
Yes, 05ah8james, the kit comes with a switch and that is the point, to switch between high and low boost levels.
Thanks for posting that picture Slorice. That is how the kits were built/sold previously, with our standard inline controllers with the nipples built into the ends.