So I got my hta green tuned on a md and I'm stuck at 360/360. My mods are buschur 3 in tb, Injen intake n ic piping, 264/272e Hks cams, Mishimoto ic, 880 injectors. Still on stock o2 and have a resignator in my exhaust. Could this be holding my hta green back from making 400 whp?

 

was turbo the last change? did you have numbers on stock snail?

smallish cams, I/C, and exhaust restriction? would be my guesses.

 

First off no offensive, I just don't see much benefit to FP Green upgrades over the stock turbos as far power gains are concerned. There are lots of guys on here making those #s and then some on thier stockers. All the money you spent on that turbo setup for what? For those who are making some good power with the Green are using meth/water injection anyways.... I just don't get it.

 

well your first step is to read dude seriously. he has some things that are limiting him. he need better cams for one the bov should be upgrade to aps twin vent. then im not sure about that intercooler. stock o2 and have a resignator need to go replace with full 3" TBE and ebay ported ss o2 housing or people like the megan o2. All that stuff is killing his power and until he corrects that he is only hurting himself. liqquid made 517whp 492tq with a hta green on e85. My other friend buj is making 472whp with it. The Turbo is meant for spooling fast with decient top end. its not a fp red or black that will produce higher numbers for the sake of spool come on now do your homework

 

WRONG! The HTA Green is a great turbo and capable of 400+ whp with the right setup.

OP - Your cams and tune are likely holding you back some...Don't get caught up in numbers b/c every dyno is a different...plug data into VDR to see how you compare to others with a similar turbo. What boost are you running and type of fuel are you using (93oct, etc. ?) ? G/L

 

My bov is a forge. At 23 psi I made 340/340 on 93, but at 26 psi I made 360/360. Just seems like I'm being held back. Overall I'm still happy with my tune cuz it pulls like hell, just wondering how I can push more without doing cams

 

If that is on a MD similar to the one I use then 360/360 actually sounds about right.

360 on a properly reading MD would net around 120mph give or take 2mph in a full weight evo with a good driver.

 

You took it up to Jason, right? He is the one that tuned my car and his dyno reads right on where it should. You need to start looking into the restrictions on the turbo. Get rid of the exhaust restriction. The bottleneck that it is creating is causing heavy back pressure not letting the turbo breathe. Also get a O2 housing, Megan, whatever, anything will free up some air over that stock one, even getting that ported makes a difference. Why did you go with the 264 cam over just 272s all around? Do you have a fuel pump to go along with those injectors? How did he say the IDC was a WOT? I believe I was able to run a little more boost on 93 octane due to the CDI pack, but I still was right at the 400/400 mark. I have the benefit of MIVEC and a few other bolt ons, but still, e-85 is the key. That is what liqquid used and that is what I am on now, and it makes a world of difference.

If you don't have a fuel pump, get one. Upgrade those injectors to 1200ccs (I might be getting rid of mine during my build here and going with some ID2000's, if so Ill let you know and you and Jason can see how you like them) switch to E-85 and turn up the boost. You will break 400/400.

 

Op, I agree with these guys. I just made 381hp 349tq on 25psi on my old Green (on a MUSTANG DYNO.)

Your cams are limiting you. Your IC pipes, and IC need to be switched out for a Buschur FMIC and short route pipes. (I'm in the same situation with my FMIC) My crappy Greddy FMIC and Injen pipes are holding me back from breaking 400 now.

Definitely get a different o2 housing, better BOV and a good MBC like a Hallman Pro RX, and get rid of the resonator in the exhaust as well.

 

Your cams, fmic,o2 housing,resonator, and the injen piping is your problem. Correct these and add e85/meth and you'll be happy as can be! The Forge holds boost just fine that isn't a problem. The only issue with the forge is the concern for it to surge at part throttle in 4-5 gear. If its not there is no need to change it.

 

I am happy so far with my Injen piping. Yeah it can be a little restrictive, but that isn't what is really causing the issue here. Cams, O2, resonator and E-85 should be enough.

 

damn im glad u have those numbers... they are good for that setup, mine is setup quite a bit more aggressive than yours so from what ur dyno numbers are i should def be over 400whp with my HTA green. I reccomend bigger cams, O2 housing for sure(at least get u an earlier tq curve) and a GOOD TUNE. 360whp for that setup on a mustang is very good tho

 

I wish people would stop knocking injen system. The system is like any other piping system. i hope you realize the upper ic pipe does nothing for you. the lower pipe will aid in spool of th turbo but it not like because you use another brand your going to gain 50hp more seriously injen will get the job done i have seen 700 whp evos rocking the pipes to perfection. Thats not whats killing this setup its alredy been mentioned the exhuast needs work the cams are crap and the Ic is unknown the o2 needs to be upgraded then he will see whats really going on the pipe is perfect does not need to be changed

 

I'm gunna start with the exhaust and see wat happens. Jason gave me a great tune and the car pulls hard. Now I have to start making my car more efficient to get my whp up cuz I have great torque.

 

What kind of dyno is this on? I'm assuming dynojet since 360 on a mustang/dyno dynamics would be decent. Upgrade your cams, FMIC, and stock o2 housing for uprated units. Basically all of the corners you have cut along the way are now catching up to you!

What in the high-hell is a resignator? LOL a resignation machine!