Engine Teardown *PICS*
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Engine Teardown *PICS*
So before I start this motor is in my DSM not an Evo. I just thought you guys would give me some good input and help out.
Okay, so today me and a buddy pulled apart the motor of my 2g auto. This is my first time tearing apart the motor. I was planning on building/ porting my head and leaving the stock bottom end on the car. There is a couple of issues we came across. I found that I have coolant in the oil. The headgasket had no cracks or splits. Could it possibly have lifted? I also found a small curled up piece of metal on the oil pump pick up (pics below). It was only one piece and there was nothing else visible in the engine, which is currently assembled. Im going to talk to the machinist Monday, but I was wondering do I need to resurface my block if I am going to run a MLS. I know alot of people that have and havent, so I thought I would ask If so, what headgasket can I run if I do not resurface it. Also, should I just stop f***ing around and build a 6 bolt block rather than my stock 7bolt block? I currently want to leave the stock block to see how far I can push it before I build another one. Let me know what you guys think.
Sorry about the pics, the flash wasn't working correctly when I took them.
Block pics.
Piece of metal shaving.
Okay, so today me and a buddy pulled apart the motor of my 2g auto. This is my first time tearing apart the motor. I was planning on building/ porting my head and leaving the stock bottom end on the car. There is a couple of issues we came across. I found that I have coolant in the oil. The headgasket had no cracks or splits. Could it possibly have lifted? I also found a small curled up piece of metal on the oil pump pick up (pics below). It was only one piece and there was nothing else visible in the engine, which is currently assembled. Im going to talk to the machinist Monday, but I was wondering do I need to resurface my block if I am going to run a MLS. I know alot of people that have and havent, so I thought I would ask If so, what headgasket can I run if I do not resurface it. Also, should I just stop f***ing around and build a 6 bolt block rather than my stock 7bolt block? I currently want to leave the stock block to see how far I can push it before I build another one. Let me know what you guys think.
Sorry about the pics, the flash wasn't working correctly when I took them.
Block pics.
Piece of metal shaving.
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Your cylinder walls are immaculate! How many miles were on it? I'd pull the caps and check all the bearings, if those are good then yea, go for it. I think you can run the SCE ICS Titan gasket without decking the block, but don't quote me on that, I'm just going off MAPerformance's website. Naturally swap in studs if you haven't already.
As for the shavings I have no idea. If you didn't notice any metal missing in the head then I'd say you'll find it taken out of a bearing, so definitely check them.
As for the shavings I have no idea. If you didn't notice any metal missing in the head then I'd say you'll find it taken out of a bearing, so definitely check them.
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You should definintly get the block decked if you want a good seal.
Finding metal shavings and coolant in the oil are neither good. Dont push your luck and just throw it back in. Tear it down and rebuild it. If you use stock componets its cheap on those motors. Not to mention the peace of mind.
Finding metal shavings and coolant in the oil are neither good. Dont push your luck and just throw it back in. Tear it down and rebuild it. If you use stock componets its cheap on those motors. Not to mention the peace of mind.
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Your cylinder walls are immaculate! How many miles were on it? I'd pull the caps and check all the bearings, if those are good then yea, go for it. I think you can run the SCE ICS Titan gasket without decking the block, but don't quote me on that, I'm just going off MAPerformance's website. Naturally swap in studs if you haven't already.
As for the shavings I have no idea. If you didn't notice any metal missing in the head then I'd say you'll find it taken out of a bearing, so definitely check them.
As for the shavings I have no idea. If you didn't notice any metal missing in the head then I'd say you'll find it taken out of a bearing, so definitely check them.
You should definintly get the block decked if you want a good seal.
Finding metal shavings and coolant in the oil are neither good. Dont push your luck and just throw it back in. Tear it down and rebuild it. If you use stock componets its cheap on those motors. Not to mention the peace of mind.
Finding metal shavings and coolant in the oil are neither good. Dont push your luck and just throw it back in. Tear it down and rebuild it. If you use stock componets its cheap on those motors. Not to mention the peace of mind.
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Well if that's your goal then building the motor kinda ****s that up!! If you wanna use the stock bottom end, but kinda cheat, replace the bearings. You can keep the pistons in the block and do that. It's really easy, just be careful not to let a piston pop out the top(or bottom) while you're doing it. An easy way to separate the rod from the piston, loosen the nuts(or bolts I forget what factory has) and knock them with a hammer(not while the piston it as TDC). Then unbolt the cap, and fenagle the rod and crank around and pop the rod bearing out. You could even pull the crank out, since you'll wanna check those bearings anyway, then you'll have easy access to all the rod bearings.
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Up grade to evo pistons/rods. There the same size but they can handle alot more power and you can get them used for 100shipped. Get new piston rings, main and rod bearings, arp main and head studs. For under 400 youll have a block good for 500whp/400wtq. It will still technically be a stock block just evo8 stock block with main studs and bearings.
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Well if that's your goal then building the motor kinda ****s that up!! If you wanna use the stock bottom end, but kinda cheat, replace the bearings. You can keep the pistons in the block and do that. It's really easy, just be careful not to let a piston pop out the top(or bottom) while you're doing it. An easy way to separate the rod from the piston, loosen the nuts(or bolts I forget what factory has) and knock them with a hammer(not while the piston it as TDC). Then unbolt the cap, and fenagle the rod and crank around and pop the rod bearing out. You could even pull the crank out, since you'll wanna check those bearings anyway, then you'll have easy access to all the rod bearings.
Up grade to evo pistons/rods. There the same size but they can handle alot more power and you can get them used for 100shipped. Get new piston rings, main and rod bearings, arp main and head studs. For under 400 youll have a block good for 500whp/400wtq. It will still technically be a stock block just evo8 stock block with main studs and bearings.
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