holiday63

iTrader: (23)

My set up is a BR stage 3 block and head, 35r, and full bolt ons

I blew the head gasket sometime in the past month, as i noticed some oil on the back of the block on piston 3, and noticed my coolant resevoir was filling up. So i finally got around to pulling the head yesterday with a little help, and noticed that the head gasket did indeed fail on the block side on piston 3. I didnt see any knock on that specific piston, in fact the only knock i noticed at all on the piston heads was on #4, but the gasket seal still looked good there.

Now, this engine has seen 5000 miles, maybe 1000 of those miles were on kill mode at 34psi on ethanol. I have a hard time believing that a metal o-ringed ringed stage 3 head and arp studs would lift in that short of a time period with that amount of boost. At the same time, I have never noticed any overheating and anytime the cars been heavily pushed its usually been logged and the temps are steady as a rock. So i dont know how the head could have warped either.

I ordered L19 headstuds (thanks Rogue) and an oem gasket, but I dont want to have to pull the head off again in a month if it is in fact warped. I want to put a straight edge on the head deck, but I was thinking the metal o-rings wont allow me to take an accurate reading. I certainly dont want to screw with the rings as i know they must be a ***** to press and cut and everything, but im not going to even consider having the head milled until i can prove its warped.

What should i do to see if the deck is level?
Anyone have experience with what im describing?

Any thoughts or insight would be helpful.

I think i might be over analyzing the situation, but i want to rule out every possibility before I put the car back together

20gmr

iTrader: (7)

seams alot of people are having issues with oil leaks between the block and head with buschur heads. My car did it something fierce, I would actually get oil on the windsheild in boost. i removed the head and had both mating surfaces checked. The head and block were both perfect, as well as both Roughness averages were in spec. When I installed the head I used a brand new oem gasket and ARP studs. I opted to not have my head O'ringed because of several cars i had known of that had issues with them sealing. This time around i used permatex copper spray a gasket, i used it on both mating surfaces as well as both dies of the gasket, im hoping that fixes it.

20gmr

iTrader: (7)

I posted a thread about this in regualr engine turbo drivetrain section and still nothing. Very frustrating. I have mine back together just waiting on stuff to rebuild my exedy so i can put the engine back in the car.

DarksideZ

iTrader: (1)

Sounds to me like the receiver groves for the O-Rings were improperly machined, the O-rings weren't seated properly or wrong size wire was used in the process. I have seen this failure many times. If it was my car I would take the head to a reputable machine shop, have them remove the wire and check for straightness first, after taht have them check the receiver grove and fix as necessary. Last and most important have them install new wire, do not reuse yours. Hopefully this will solve your issue, if you have any questions feel free to shoot me a pm.

SkipDMan

O-ring Protrusion is also a factor. If the protrusion is too great you might not leak combustion, but you might leak oil/water between holes or to the atmosphere. Protrusion on an MLS gasket needs to be about 0.007", and about double that with a graphite gasket.

Uneven protrusion will also cause this as stated above ^

tscompusa2

iTrader: (22)

im bumping this. I had to retorque my head about 10 times. It finally sealed after 115tq with lucas assembly lube. Using arp L19 studs. I was afraid to torque it down this tight but it worked and has been staying sealed for 500 miles+ now. I also used the copper spray + mitsu oem gasket.