New TiAL QR BOV flutter
#32
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Until I have time to go to a shop to do a boost leak test which won't be for a while, I am stuck troubleshooting. I wish Tial didn't have a proprietary flange, I cant stick my Works stock modified BOV back on to test.
#33
Well like I said in post 27. I have checked all my clamps. I have even sprayed soapy water on all the connections to see if there is a leak. The connections on the pipes are good. I have pulled on them to make sure they dont budge. Then checked the clamp again.
Until I have time to go to a shop to do a boost leak test which won't be for a while, I am stuck troubleshooting. I wish Tial didn't have a proprietary flange, I cant stick my Works stock modified BOV back on to test.
Until I have time to go to a shop to do a boost leak test which won't be for a while, I am stuck troubleshooting. I wish Tial didn't have a proprietary flange, I cant stick my Works stock modified BOV back on to test.
the stock BV leaks, and when it does some of the air is recirculated from the charge pipe back to the intake in a circle so you are not getting all the lb/min or CFM the turbo is pumping out. adding our bov, or any other bov that doesn't leak, or not having a bov at all will all yield the same results.
get a larger comp cover, use more throttle, change cams, or upgrade the turbo are about the only ways to get rid of it
#35
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Have you been down the "it might be the tune" causing the issue? Just wondering if you've done any logging and examined parameters where you're seeing the condition. It seems strange that the condition occurs in all gears. I had a similar issue as yours. On my previous setup the injector scaling was a little too low. Once adjusted properly, no more bucking/stuttering.
TiALSport wrote "use more throttle" - maybe he's saying you might need to add more fuel... I'm wondering what your AFRs look like when you experience the condition.
I'm absolutely no expert, but I think you should consider other possible causes.
Do you have an aftermarket tune?
TiALSport wrote "use more throttle" - maybe he's saying you might need to add more fuel... I'm wondering what your AFRs look like when you experience the condition.
I'm absolutely no expert, but I think you should consider other possible causes.
Do you have an aftermarket tune?
Last edited by churchja; Apr 22, 2010 at 11:14 AM.
#36
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I am basically at the end of minor bolt ons. Upgrade that is left is a turbo which is out of my price range at the moment. Ported intake manifold, tb, exhaust manifold, hot side. ETS FMIC and pipes. Cosworth M2s, FIC 1050s, E85 tune at 28 PSI.
Since it is a recirculating BOV, I wouldnt suspect the tune. I even tried down shifting and it still happens. I can go WOT and it's perfect and the car moves, but I am not trying to drive around at WOT ALLLLLL the time... That's ridiculous.
Tial,
I know you say this isnt the issue, but is there a way I can trade out springs with you guys to the unpainted 10 psi spring for the QR?
Since it is a recirculating BOV, I wouldnt suspect the tune. I even tried down shifting and it still happens. I can go WOT and it's perfect and the car moves, but I am not trying to drive around at WOT ALLLLLL the time... That's ridiculous.
Tial,
I know you say this isnt the issue, but is there a way I can trade out springs with you guys to the unpainted 10 psi spring for the QR?
#37
#38
I am basically at the end of minor bolt ons. Upgrade that is left is a turbo which is out of my price range at the moment. Ported intake manifold, tb, exhaust manifold, hot side. ETS FMIC and pipes. Cosworth M2s, FIC 1050s, E85 tune at 28 PSI.
Since it is a recirculating BOV, I wouldnt suspect the tune. I even tried down shifting and it still happens. I can go WOT and it's perfect and the car moves, but I am not trying to drive around at WOT ALLLLLL the time... That's ridiculous.
Tial,
I know you say this isnt the issue, but is there a way I can trade out springs with you guys to the unpainted 10 psi spring for the QR?
Since it is a recirculating BOV, I wouldnt suspect the tune. I even tried down shifting and it still happens. I can go WOT and it's perfect and the car moves, but I am not trying to drive around at WOT ALLLLLL the time... That's ridiculous.
Tial,
I know you say this isnt the issue, but is there a way I can trade out springs with you guys to the unpainted 10 psi spring for the QR?
#39
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I own a Tial Q, a handful of metal IX dvs and the synchronic. The only BOV that holds 30+psi for me and feels CLOSE to the stock dv on the freeway is the synchronic. I'm still holding on to the Tial though because if I ever get a large turbo I'll run that. With the small, spikey turbo like stock, bbk, etc theyre all going to act like this.
#40
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This sucks because I shelled out $300 on the BOV and labor to get the flange welded and I can't even drive my car without being frustrated.
I wonder if an FP Green would resolve my situation, even though I want a BBK, it is the cheapest.
#41
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Not to insult but many times its the driver.
I've let my friends drive my car and they can get the BOV to flutter like crazy because they cant keep the throttle steady if their life depended on it. Most can't even stay a steady speed. Me on the other hand can keep the throttle very steady and ride the same speed no matter what.
You might just need to steady your foot more when driving, if the throttle is being moved a lot it will make the bucking WAY more noticeable. If its in all gears and all rpm's it could be a tuning issue as far as the bucking goes.
I've let my friends drive my car and they can get the BOV to flutter like crazy because they cant keep the throttle steady if their life depended on it. Most can't even stay a steady speed. Me on the other hand can keep the throttle very steady and ride the same speed no matter what.
You might just need to steady your foot more when driving, if the throttle is being moved a lot it will make the bucking WAY more noticeable. If its in all gears and all rpm's it could be a tuning issue as far as the bucking goes.
#42
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Not to insult but many times its the driver.
I've let my friends drive my car and they can get the BOV to flutter like crazy because they cant keep the throttle steady if their life depended on it. Most can't even stay a steady speed. Me on the other hand can keep the throttle very steady and ride the same speed no matter what.
You might just need to steady your foot more when driving, if the throttle is being moved a lot it will make the bucking WAY more noticeable. If its in all gears and all rpm's it could be a tuning issue as far as the bucking goes.
I've let my friends drive my car and they can get the BOV to flutter like crazy because they cant keep the throttle steady if their life depended on it. Most can't even stay a steady speed. Me on the other hand can keep the throttle very steady and ride the same speed no matter what.
You might just need to steady your foot more when driving, if the throttle is being moved a lot it will make the bucking WAY more noticeable. If its in all gears and all rpm's it could be a tuning issue as far as the bucking goes.
OP, what are you using for boost control? If you have are using a stock working boost control solenoid (AEM, GM, etc...) you should be able to do load and or gear based boost tuning, which could mitigate your problem, other than that, get a bigger turbo.
P.S. I have the EXACT same problem, but mine will hit 15-20psi and start doing it, any gear, if I try to hold it at ~40% throttle. My only options are to accelerate slower, or a **** load faster, kinda like all or nothing.
#43
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Thats true to an extent, you can drive in a way to avoid flutter and surging, but you shouldn't have to. The car doesn't do it stock (for the reasons tial stated), and any mildly modded car should behave and drive like an OE meant it to, just faster and sharper.
OP, what are you using for boost control? If you have are using a stock working boost control solenoid (AEM, GM, etc...) you should be able to do load and or gear based boost tuning, which could mitigate your problem, other than that, get a bigger turbo.
P.S. I have the EXACT same problem, but mine will hit 15-20psi and start doing it, any gear, if I try to hold it at ~40% throttle. My only options are to accelerate slower, or a **** load faster, kinda like all or nothing.
OP, what are you using for boost control? If you have are using a stock working boost control solenoid (AEM, GM, etc...) you should be able to do load and or gear based boost tuning, which could mitigate your problem, other than that, get a bigger turbo.
P.S. I have the EXACT same problem, but mine will hit 15-20psi and start doing it, any gear, if I try to hold it at ~40% throttle. My only options are to accelerate slower, or a **** load faster, kinda like all or nothing.
Forsaken,
I am running a GM 3 port. I ventured into self tuning, BUT it took too much of my time and living in SoCal... The law is a *****.
And for your problem, I can say mine is the same thing. WOT, the car pulls like hell and is awesome. At low throttle, little to no boost, it doesn't happen.
I guess I will have to venture into a slightly bigger turbo, sucks that I have to drive around like this until that day happens.
#44
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Not to insult but many times its the driver.
I've let my friends drive my car and they can get the BOV to flutter like crazy because they cant keep the throttle steady if their life depended on it. Most can't even stay a steady speed. Me on the other hand can keep the throttle very steady and ride the same speed no matter what.
You might just need to steady your foot more when driving, if the throttle is being moved a lot it will make the bucking WAY more noticeable. If its in all gears and all rpm's it could be a tuning issue as far as the bucking goes.
I've let my friends drive my car and they can get the BOV to flutter like crazy because they cant keep the throttle steady if their life depended on it. Most can't even stay a steady speed. Me on the other hand can keep the throttle very steady and ride the same speed no matter what.
You might just need to steady your foot more when driving, if the throttle is being moved a lot it will make the bucking WAY more noticeable. If its in all gears and all rpm's it could be a tuning issue as far as the bucking goes.
i have the same issue as the OP with my Tial Alpha Q...if i try to hold like 10+psi at partial boost/throttle acceleration and not go WOT...i get the same exact fluttering.
oh and btw...i have an FP Red with Cossy cams and other mods...didnt do it until i installed the tial. My VTA 50mm tial was no worse than this Alpha Q...
I bought the alpha Q thinking it would reduce the flutter, being that it recirculates and it BARELY helped...
#45
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its not the driver
i have the same issue as the OP with my Tial Alpha Q...if i try to hold like 10+psi at partial boost/throttle acceleration and not go WOT...i get the same exact fluttering.
oh and btw...i have an FP Red with Cossy cams and other mods...didnt do it until i installed the tial. My VTA 50mm tial was no worse than this Alpha Q...
I bought the alpha Q thinking it would reduce the flutter, being that it recirculates and it BARELY helped...
i have the same issue as the OP with my Tial Alpha Q...if i try to hold like 10+psi at partial boost/throttle acceleration and not go WOT...i get the same exact fluttering.
oh and btw...i have an FP Red with Cossy cams and other mods...didnt do it until i installed the tial. My VTA 50mm tial was no worse than this Alpha Q...
I bought the alpha Q thinking it would reduce the flutter, being that it recirculates and it BARELY helped...
I guess their BOVs should only be used in race applications?