Try around 60% for a start and put it into learn mode and observe if the boost duty setting changes to ** % If it does, you're on the right track.

If you have boost leaks, tuning an AVC-R is going to be the biggest pain you ever had in your ***.




And as for using ECUFlash for boost control, I'll stick to AVC-R for now. Like the unit and it's a boost gouge at the same time.

 

Never liked it. I had one in my Turbo Civic Si and I always had problems with it. I learned and for the evo I got the Blitz SBCid. I have had no problems with that EBC. I'm not a huge fan of the profec ebc's the only thing I do like about the Profec B is the high low button switch.

 

wow this maybe the oldest thread I have ever seen bumped up lol. Almost 5 years to date of original post. Anyways, I had AVCR in my WRX and it was great. I am going to put it in my EVO becasue I cant stand the Forge MBC and how much it needs to be adjusted on a daily basis. The AVC-R has many advanced features that would benefit a vehicle with traction issues or bigger turbos such as gear based boost and the ability to adjust boost by rpm. On typical EVO setups, its more like pick a target boost and start playing with duty cycle to achieve it. I usually dont get involved with duty cycle based on rpm. Just set it and let it sort it self out with its learning feature. If you do wire it up for scramble boost its another nifty feature which is basically a controlled spike. This does require a different wiring setup.
After all that is setup you have the two more setups as mentioned by another member. settings A,B,Off. Great for meth with a map switch, high/low boost and then the old wastegate only setting. Even though this unit is "outdated" I feel it is still more advanced the many other units. Dont let the setup instructions deter you from this unit. Hope this helps everyone, even though I am sure Malibu Jack has figured all these things out already

 

It's a nice piece of electronic gadgetry but I'd recommend a MBC over this thing any day. I had it on my Eclipse for about 3 or 4 years now and never did I have good things to say about it. It's capable of keeping boost at the input level for short periods but I'd always find it creep if you'd stay in the throttle long enough (it is this thing, we tried an MBC to find the problem and it was the AVC-R). And by creep I mean it'd be set at 21lbs. and it would creep to 25-30lbs. at times.

There's ALOT of functionality. Gear based boost control, RPM based boost control, Speed based boost control, Autolearn for duty cycles, scramble boost, etc. These are all very nice features of the unit but I was never satisfied with the outcomes and I spend quite some time fiddling with them. Whether it was just I didn't spend enough or it may have just been the application that it was used on.


All the all, the only reason I had kept this on my car was:
1. I was too lazy to try to sell it and felt that I had just completely wasted $500.00 if I didn't keep it on the car.
2. It also functions as an electronic boost gauge.

If you already bought it, I'd use it and see how you like it. If it's not what you were looking for, sell it and get a MBC.

 

that creep sounds like your duty cycle might have been too high... I know I could be wrong but thats usually what happens

 

that and DSMs have been notorious for it. 02 housing and BAM boost creep. at least thats what happened in my buddys GSX

 

Thanks for the info guys. It seems to be work great for me. The only thing i'm a little concerned about is that the rpm is off. I'm wondering if it is a bad connection somewhere. I have a hks turbo timer and that is dead on to the car's gauge. The avc-r is about 300 rpm off at idle and more at higher rpm. Other then that the boost holds on well at 50% duty but i'll play with the settings more and i'll double check all the wiring when I have time. This maybe a dumb question but did you guys completely remove the stock solenoid after installing the avc-r? I kept it connected to the wiring and vaccum sealed the hoses to it. I just simply followed the install instructions I found in the forum.

 

you can leave the stock solenoid in there just cap it off. Check your grounds for the rmo as remember it's probably more common for the stock cluster to be off since you are wired directly into the ecu signal. Similar to the way a boost gauge will read different in the gauge then when you log it. Hope that helps !

 

yeah it does but i'm not so good with acronyms. What does rmo stand for? The hks turbo timer and stock cluster appears very close to what evoscan reads. The avc-r is noticeably off. Any help is good to help cover anything i might have missed. I appreciate your help.