stock crank strength
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Newbie
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: pakistan
stock crank strength
ok guys as u all already may know im running :
evo 9 MR JDM with:
Precision Billet 6265 turbo with full race twin scroll manifold and downpipe,
1200 cc injectors.
Haltech Sport 2000.
with urz advise i have changed my valve spring and retainers with GSC S2 MIVEC Cams already,
just wated to kno im thinking of changing my stock pistons and rods,
how strong is the stock crank as im not changing it, im putting wisco pistons and man manley rods only.
with these im also putting new ACL main and bearing and thrust washers,
does the crank have to balanced again on removal??? and how strong is the stock crank will it be fine on 2.2 bar boost??
evo 9 MR JDM with:
Precision Billet 6265 turbo with full race twin scroll manifold and downpipe,
1200 cc injectors.
Haltech Sport 2000.
with urz advise i have changed my valve spring and retainers with GSC S2 MIVEC Cams already,
just wated to kno im thinking of changing my stock pistons and rods,
how strong is the stock crank as im not changing it, im putting wisco pistons and man manley rods only.
with these im also putting new ACL main and bearing and thrust washers,
does the crank have to balanced again on removal??? and how strong is the stock crank will it be fine on 2.2 bar boost??
Last edited by CrashD; May 12, 2010 at 04:32 PM.
It shouldnt have to be balanced since youre not altering the crank. I think that rod bolts are the weak part in an OEM bottom end. Lots of torque will stretch them and then youll slip a bearing.
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 40
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From: Clearwater, Fl
The weakest part of the stock rotating assembly is by far the rod bolts. Get some arps. If you are taking the rotating assembly out of the block you should have it balanced. The factory balance margin is much greater than would you will get at the machine shop.
In addition when you balance your rotating assembly it helps to focus the force of the combustion on the center of the crankshaft. This prolongs your engine/bearing life.
In addition when you balance your rotating assembly it helps to focus the force of the combustion on the center of the crankshaft. This prolongs your engine/bearing life.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: pakistan
The weakest part of the stock rotating assembly is by far the rod bolts. Get some arps. If you are taking the rotating assembly out of the block you should have it balanced. The factory balance margin is much greater than would you will get at the machine shop.
In addition when you balance your rotating assembly it helps to focus the force of the combustion on the center of the crankshaft. This prolongs your engine/bearing life.
In addition when you balance your rotating assembly it helps to focus the force of the combustion on the center of the crankshaft. This prolongs your engine/bearing life.
thanks boss
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Factory cranks are well balanced from the factory. The balancing that is needed is the rods and pistons, and the rotating assembly as a group. With your setup, I'd not be relying on stock factory rods or pistons. While you have it apart, replace them with forged parts.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 43
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From: pakistan
i am changing my internals i.e: wisco pistons and man manley rods, arc bearings, as i have written in the start.
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