I heard a rumor that if you leave the tensioner depressed too long, you can ruin it. Is this true?

I used Js Racing "mitsu tool" to relieve belt tension. The car had to sit for about a week. Maybe two...? While I did a cam swap.
After that, I was able to remove the tool to add tension back. I ended up using the tool a few more times. Each time, tension was released and returned.
But. When I started my car, it ran a bit....I slowly revved to 2500rpm then let off. Timing belt jumped and now my exh cam is off 3 teeth.
Before starting, I turned engine over quite a few times with the ecu fuse pulled. I did this till the oil light went off. I know the tensioner is hydro...
Did I not give it time to self-adjust? Is the tensioner bad??

 

How many miles on that tensioner? Did you notice any fluid on it? After you release the tension, it usually takes about 15 min for the tensioner to reset.

 

Didn't notice any fluid, but I can't really see it. What would that mean?
Car has 57k miles.
Car sat a whole day. Engine turned over quite a bit. Ran a a few seconds.
It was waaaaaaaaaay over 15mins before starting. Or, does the car need to run for 15mins to build up pressure?
Thanks for the reply.

 

do you know how to properly set the tension on the Evo? The auto tensioner is to take up slack for the timing belt stretching. The offset idler is where you set the tension for the timing belt.

As long as when you wind in the tensioner, you do it slow, it will be ok. If you do it too fast, you can ruin the auto tensioner.

 

Mitsubishi recommends replacing that tensioner with the 60K service. At 57k I would have gone ahead and done that service. I think it should have still worked but sometimes when in service in less then optimal environments, I've seen them freeze up and then when depressed they fail to re-extend.

Josh

 

This also.

Josh

 

I do not. I'll check my service guide. Now that you mention it, I do remember reading something about adjusting, then waiting a bit, and adjusting some more.
Is there a how to on this board? Or is it simple enough to tell me?
Thanks for the info. I totally forgot about that.
I'll do some research, try it out, and report back tomorrow.

 

As I remember the tensioner has a heavy spring inside pressing against a piston. On both sides of the piston is thick silicon oil. To move from one side of the piston to the other, the oil has to move through a small orifice. This is to prevent the tensioner from making rapid adjustments. This is also why you have to wait a few minutes before starting the engine.

Check for fluid means checking for leaking silicon oil. I think you would probably have to have the spring compressed for years to get it to take a set. So, I don't think what you did could have damaged the tensioner. However, that doesn't mean the tensioner is good. I could have failed while in use.

BTW, I know the belt will jump if you don't have the tensioner pulley set correctly (snug enough) because this was happening to me as I was trying to set the pulley. One of those little blocks you stick between the cam pulleys would be a great help. Uh, I need to get one of those.

 

Cool. So I need to find the correct way to get tension back on the belt.
Also, when I was using the Mitsu tool to put slack on the t-belt, maybe I tightened it too fast? Not giving it enough time for the fluid to change places?
I don't remember seeing any kind of silicon-like fluid anywhere. But I'm assuming it would be behind the timing cover.

I'll line the cams back up, correctly tension the belt, then see how it goes from there. Searching for a t-belt how to right....about.....now.

 

Looks like I use the mitsu tool til holes line up on tensioner/tensioner tube. The I loosen the tensioner bolt, use my other tool to adjust tension, and tighten bolt. Holes should stay aligned.
Short version. LOL

 

you need to pull the side of the motor apart so you can see all the timing marks on the crank and the oil pump so you know that everything is in the right place. you are lucky that you haven't killed all the valves in your head if the timing belt really jumped 3 teeth ... when you take the side of the motor apart you can take the auto tensioner off re-pin it so it is at its resting state. Then set the timing using all the marks just not the ones on the cover or the cams ... when you redo the timing and everything is in the proper place pull the pin out of the auto tensioner. spin the motor over by hand a few times and make sure everything still lines up. let the motor sit and you should still be able to re-pin the auto tensioner. if your like me you spin it a few times and make sure everything stays in place and the belt is tight before putting it all back together ...

ps never take short cuts do it the right way you might as well change your timing belt and what not while you are at it

 

oh, it jumped three teeth. it went from being perfectly lined up even after turning by hand about 10 times, total, to the exh cam being 3 teeth off (CCW). it's a definite thing.

how can the crank be off by using the timing mark on the belt cover? doesn't that, the mark on the pulley, and the mark on the crank all line up? i find it hard to believe either can move.

 

how do you know the oil pump didnt jump?.. and you still have to get the belt tension right so your still looking at taking the side of the motor apart

 

Evos have lines to line up the oil pump too??!!wtf??!!

 

^ Have you ever done a timing belt before?