Hot dang. This baby has got some kick now! Finally got around to removing the pill. What a pita! Things I immediately noticed:
The idle is higher now. Seems I'm idling at around 1000rpm to 1100. Prior to removal of the pill, my car always felt like it wanted to die when idling. Fuel pedal response has improved greatly when taking off. The car always felt difficult to launch. Seems that I needed to tach it up to 2krpm or higher to get a smooth launch and still had to slowly let out the clutch. That has been cured!? Don't know if it's the higher idle or what, but the car is fun to drive in town now.
The mid range kick is now tremendous. No if's and's or but's about it, this definitely gave me some ponies. Still haven't been able to take the car to the highway to feel the pull above 5k rpm in 4th and 5 gears. Hopefully, that studder is gone. So far, this seems to be just what my car needed. I'm totally stock with the exception of that little trick.
Anyway, I'm thrilled to have learned about this. Thanks Timzcat for turning us on to this.

On a side note, is my idle a bit too high? If so, I doubt there is a manual adjustment, right? Any suggestions?

 

I did that a long time ago and can promise you that you dont want to leave it like that for long. The car will periodically spike to very high boost levels that are only contained by the fuel cut off which is annoying enough on its own.

If you are on a budget, buy a manual boost controller but I would not recommend continuing to run your car with the restrictor plugged in. I bought a Greddy Profec B Spec II which will give me every bit of power removing the pill did but it will be contained and controlled.

Just my .02.

 

Strictly...
I had read about fuel cutoff with the pill removed but thought that was only occurring with cars that had an aftermarket exhaust or other things that might lean the car out too much. I run 93 octane and I'm totally stock. Still think I'll hit fuel cutoff???

 

Yes it will if it gets cool enough outside (under 60 degrees). I didn't have any mods at all and ran 93 octane as well and would hit fuel cut off every time if it was cooler outside.

Honest to god man...just spend 70 bucs on a manual boost controller and be safe. Again...just my recommendation.

 

OK, I've heard you loud and clear

Maybe you or someone could address the idle issue. Will the MBC help me in this area?

Also, this is my first turbo. I'm quite familiar with the e36 M3...but this is a totally different beast. Can you tell me about a quality MBC manufacturer? I was already thinking about going that route as I'd like to put an exhaust on the car.
So...any help is appreciated.

 

I'm no expert so dont put a whole lot of stuck in my advise on your idle issue or boost controllers. I am only talking to you from my personal experience and what I have heard from others.

From what I understand, Turbo Xcess makes the best MBC. If you have the money, go with a EBC--even more control. Z1 Performance is doing the greddy profec b spec II for 289 shipped which is a phenomenal deal.

 

Cool. From my limited knowledge, the EBC definitely sounds like the better way to go. Settings can actually be adjusted in the car, right? And, doesn't the EBC give me a boost reading? Do you own the Profec b spec II???? If so, where did you install it or where is the likely spot for it to be installed? My guess is the space below the radio.
I'm assuming the EBC should be completely disconnected prior to any dealer servicing...right? Is the unit difficult to install/uninstall?
I appreciate your thoughts!!! I'm such a newb to this car but I'm trying to learn. So, thanks for your effort to help educate me.

 

My Profec B Spec II is on the way--I just got in on that deal that I mentioned to you above. I went ahead and got it because I am also doing the Dynoflash mod this week and Al at Dynoflash recommends an EBC.

If you just do boost controller, intake, and dyno flash you will see your car in the mid 12s if drag racing is your thing. Add a clutch and you are down near the low 12s.

 

used sbc-id for sale here, PM me

 

The only way to keep from hitting the fuel cut even when it's cold, is to run it hard from 1st gear all the way to redline, for every gear.. It will not hit fuel cut.. But if you're in a high gear and stomp on it, it definately will hit the fuel cut.. I simply unplugged that line instead of taking out the pill.... It's just the same as the 1st gen turbo eclipse boost bypass...

 

You are still going to have potential boost spikes that way--especially as the weather gets cooler and you won't have any control with it either. If you ever plan on tuning your air/fuel ratios, or timing, you wont be able to be consistent without a boost controller.

 

Absolutely, I know that... But, until that time, this is suitable.. I will be getting the EVC V soon... Very nice piece of equipment..

 

I have been watching the forums and wondering when someone would finally post that they've discovered that mod.. I do have one suggestion though, instead of just unplugging it and leaving it laying there open, pick up one of those tiny air K&N Air filters used on RC Car nitro engines.. Just a little bit of safety.. but its the easiest way to get 19psi to redline.. The only problem is that with an aftermarket exhaust, it tends to spike with this mod also (since my aftermarket (buschur) exhaust increased boost and spoolup response) so my car runs at about 21psi.. Definitely not good for fuel cut.

I do get the exact symptoms (Part throttle load based fuel cut) that never happens if I row through the gears WOT

I Had a Hallman MBC (In my opinion the best MBC) installed on my car, I removed it to experiment with the stock boost solenoid and the bypass mod that you did. I just got an APEXi S-AVC-R to replace it..

The MBC Is great, and its a amazingly inexpensive upgrade for what you get, however do keep in mind you periodically have to adjust it (in real cold dense air, I found I needed to drop my boost to 19-20psi as opposed to 21psi I was running through the summer months)

If you were local, I would have given you my MBC in trade for something since I won't be using it any longer.

Good luck with your experimentation!

 

For the brief time I ran mine with that mod I used a brass plumbing fitting to connect the two hoses together so there was never a break in the line (as it would be if it was still connected).

 

Yeah, I did the same thing at one point too.. Tried different experiments to see what caused restrictions and what didnt (the fitting in my case altered boost slightly hence I decided to just stick a cheap air filter on it)