Calling Clutch Experts, Spring tabs on intermediate PP needed?
Calling Clutch Experts, Spring tabs on intermediate PP needed?
Hello,
I just got my clutch back from rebuild, and there are no spring tabs on the intermediate pressure plate.
These are used to push the plates apart when the clutch is depressed, to allow the clutch discs to spin freely without contacting the pressure plates and dragging.


I talked to the clutch guy (who did the rebuild), he said they are not needed.
I just would like to get a second opinion on this.
Surely the spring tabs would only do good things, and they are worth having? They will stop high RPM lockout?
Bear in mind these are carbon/kevlar plates, and not the stock cerametallic clutch discs.
Cheers, Mike
I just got my clutch back from rebuild, and there are no spring tabs on the intermediate pressure plate.
These are used to push the plates apart when the clutch is depressed, to allow the clutch discs to spin freely without contacting the pressure plates and dragging.


I talked to the clutch guy (who did the rebuild), he said they are not needed.
I just would like to get a second opinion on this.
Surely the spring tabs would only do good things, and they are worth having? They will stop high RPM lockout?
Bear in mind these are carbon/kevlar plates, and not the stock cerametallic clutch discs.
Cheers, Mike
I am prolly the only one one here that would recognize the cool things that were done to this clutch. From what I see a thicker. longer lasting, and far smoother friction material was chosen. marginally heavier than the thin metallic discs. But with no spring centers it should shift as well as the exedy design. The clamping force was increased by welding a ring onto pressure plate to change fulcrum point of diaphragm.. This of course will increase pedal pressure. If those numbers are correct. 2200-4200 the pedal will be for those with a big left leg. Hopefully you are using a crank that has hardened bearing surfaces so you dont have thrust bearing wear. The factory cranks are not hardened. they are very soft. If using a stock crank I would recommend having it nitrided.
i see the mid floater was shaved quite a bit to allow use of thicker plates. The springs on the floater plate are there for two reasons. One to help quiet the clutch by limiting the rattle. And two to help disengage the plates. The mid floater is much heavier than the usual 1/4" thick plate. It will have far greater reciprocal mass. At high rpm it may have trouble floating away from one disc. It will want to stay glued to the posts due to its mass. So there may be some dragging causing blockout at high rpm.
what I do know for sure about this clutch. it will have far greater pedal pressure. it will be much smoother engaging. stock like takeoff in first. it will last twice as long as metallic discs. and due to lack of springs on discs it will rattle the drive shaft on decell.
if you have the springs for floater i would put them back on. but It most certainly will work without them. I would like to hear your feedback on it either way.
i see the mid floater was shaved quite a bit to allow use of thicker plates. The springs on the floater plate are there for two reasons. One to help quiet the clutch by limiting the rattle. And two to help disengage the plates. The mid floater is much heavier than the usual 1/4" thick plate. It will have far greater reciprocal mass. At high rpm it may have trouble floating away from one disc. It will want to stay glued to the posts due to its mass. So there may be some dragging causing blockout at high rpm.
what I do know for sure about this clutch. it will have far greater pedal pressure. it will be much smoother engaging. stock like takeoff in first. it will last twice as long as metallic discs. and due to lack of springs on discs it will rattle the drive shaft on decell.
if you have the springs for floater i would put them back on. but It most certainly will work without them. I would like to hear your feedback on it either way.
Thanks for your input 94AWDCoupe!
i added more information in my build thread.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/8432808-post51.html
The stock 4g64 crank has been nitrided.
I've been assured that the pedal feel will be "like stock". My stock clutch that they upgraded was done in a similar way, with the fulcrum point being changed. And it was a very nice feeling pedal. But we'll just have to wait and see.
I'm going to contact the workshop on monday (after i've got more information/advice) and see if they can fit new spring tabs. They said something about because of the thicker discs, they couldn't fit stock sized springs. Hopefully they have something there that they can use.
I dont want to use something thats "average" to use.
Do it right, do it right the first time.
What do you think a rebuild like this is worth?
With increased clamping pressure (higher torque rating?), smoother engaging discs, longer life.
i added more information in my build thread.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/8432808-post51.html
The stock 4g64 crank has been nitrided.
I've been assured that the pedal feel will be "like stock". My stock clutch that they upgraded was done in a similar way, with the fulcrum point being changed. And it was a very nice feeling pedal. But we'll just have to wait and see.
I'm going to contact the workshop on monday (after i've got more information/advice) and see if they can fit new spring tabs. They said something about because of the thicker discs, they couldn't fit stock sized springs. Hopefully they have something there that they can use.
I dont want to use something thats "average" to use.
Do it right, do it right the first time.
What do you think a rebuild like this is worth?
With increased clamping pressure (higher torque rating?), smoother engaging discs, longer life.
This ended up costing about 600USD, and thats for all 4 surfaces machined, clamping pressure increase, 2x new full face carbon/kevlar discs, shot peening, new TOB.
Not bad if you ask me, considering a new exedy twin plate which wont handle as much power at this would cost me anywhere from $1500-1700USD posted.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 1
From: Still in NC!! Loving retired life!!
Those springs provide minimal pressure on the plates. I have a floater plate here that was pulled from a car by the dealer because they "couldn't get it back together with that twin disc" so the guy sold me the clutch for a good price. Anyhow, the springs are very soft and would only provide a slight amount of pressure and not enough to over come the inertial "lock" as 94AWD stated earlier. I've run several Evo's with rebuilt clutches without those springs and everything was fine.
Josh
Josh
Those springs provide minimal pressure on the plates. I have a floater plate here that was pulled from a car by the dealer because they "couldn't get it back together with that twin disc" so the guy sold me the clutch for a good price. Anyhow, the springs are very soft and would only provide a slight amount of pressure and not enough to over come the inertial "lock" as 94AWD stated earlier. I've run several Evo's with rebuilt clutches without those springs and everything was fine.
Josh

Josh


it's wierd though because they did the same rebuild on a friends clutch about 4 years ago, and they put springs back on his clutch... hmmm
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 1
From: Still in NC!! Loving retired life!!
Maybe they realized that those springs are a waste of time and energy since then and decided to say screw it? IDK PM me and lets work something out where I send you my clutch and they do this to it! LOL No really.
Josh
Josh
I think the springs are quite heavy. I also dont think exedy would use them if they didnt do anything. they do serve a purpose.
I also know you can leave them out and run the clutch as is without them. If it doesnt shift well at high rpm you wont know whether its the new clutch plate mass or missing springs. and if it shifts well you wont know if it could shift even better with the springs.
I also know you can leave them out and run the clutch as is without them. If it doesnt shift well at high rpm you wont know whether its the new clutch plate mass or missing springs. and if it shifts well you wont know if it could shift even better with the springs.
Last edited by 94AWDcoupe; Jun 25, 2010 at 08:31 PM.
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 1
From: Still in NC!! Loving retired life!!
I think the springs are quite heavy. I also dont think exedy would use them if they didnt do anything. they do serve a purpose.
I also know you can leave them out and run the clutch as is without them. If it doesnt shift well at high rpm you wont know whether its the new clutch plate mass or missing springs. and if it shifts well you wont know if it could shift even better with the springs.
I also know you can leave them out and run the clutch as is without them. If it doesnt shift well at high rpm you wont know whether its the new clutch plate mass or missing springs. and if it shifts well you wont know if it could shift even better with the springs.
BTW good discussion and thanks to everyone for keeping it civil.
Josh
When I had my exedy rebuilt all those springs were broken. I called Evan at exedy and he said I needed a new plate. I don't know bow long the springs were broken but I never got locked out and it drove the same
I never noticed a difference in noise. I bought a new plate with springs because it was readily available (~$200 US)
Like I said, I never experienced any lockout shifting at 8k, and it was always noisy in between shifts. Even now with new plates, it's still noisy.
Like I said, I never experienced any lockout shifting at 8k, and it was always noisy in between shifts. Even now with new plates, it's still noisy.






