So, as many of you might know it has been a huge discussion topic for the longest time if you can cut or turn a crank and still have a reliable power plant engine that will last just like stock..

It has been discussed on all Mistu forums so many times yet with so many factors that people just dont know that to believe & shops say one thing while others say another..So what I am going to do is try it out on MY motor, recording all the data and updating this thread on a day to day basis from my engine start up, to first test drive, break-in period and final tune date..And so after throughout the life of the engine.

I am not hear to prove anybody wrong, just to give members on here a better idea if it is worth it to cut a crank or dish out and purchase a fresh crankshaft..Also i will Let you know of my power goals, what fluids i ran, engine specs, turbo size, fuel choice etc etc..some of it may not be necessary however more info doesn't hurt.. Anybody please feel free to throw in your input regardless what it is, this thread is open to all thoughts..

HERE WE GO:

Engine:

2.3 Stroker, 100mm Manley Crank
10/10 bearings & Re-Nitride Coated
Clearances .0019 - .0020 all the way around ( Rods & Mains)
ACL Rod Bearings
Clevite Main Bearings
Cosworth Thrust Washers

Turbo:

35r

Fuel:

Break in: 91Oct
WOT: E85

Desired Power Level:

35+ Psi on E-85
650-700whp

BREAK IN:

I will do a nice good break-in of this motor, i know people have a thousand and one ways of breaking an engine in however, I will break in this motor for a good 2,000 miles before it see's the dyno..

0-50 Miles

Oil: Autozone SAE 30 Non-Detergent
Boost: 2-4psi

50-500 Miles COMPLETE

Oil: Autozone SAE 30 Non-Detergent
Boost: 4-8psi

500-1000 Miles COMPLETE

Oil: Shell Rotella 15w-40
Boost: 6-10Psi

1000-1500 Miles

Oil: Shell Rotella 15w-40
Boost: 6-10Psi

1500-2000 Miles

Oil: Shell Rotella 15w-40
Boost: 6-10Psi

Will Keep you updated..

 

Update:

Started the Engine for the first time! Took few cranks to get it to turn due to the mini battery being pretty much dead, but it fired right up sounded nice and strong..Doesnt say much but hey at least it started..

Will be taking it for a spin tonight to see how it does..Will keep you updated.

 

Update:

So, the car has about 100 miles on it right now..the motor sounds good, no leaks, funny noises or anything of that sort..Oil pressure, temp and all that good stuff is normal which doesn't really say much to whether this 10/10 crank will hold since the motor hasn't seen anything over 4psi. yet..But its a good indication to say that everything is operating properly. I'm breaking the motor in slowly however im not babying it..Going through the gears, using the engine to stop at lights etc etc..

I did the first oil change at 45miles last night and whats funny is that it still had that golden color to it. as if it was barley used..Found nothing unusual in the oil such as metal flakes, or shavings..Also cut the oil filter open and cut it up and still nothing but what you might see on a new engine..So for the most part everything seems fine..

Will keep you updated for throughout...Any input will be great!

 

My .02-- The oil should be clean as you have seen. I would watch using the heavier 20-50 later on as you indicated, stick the a synthetic 10-30, 10-40 as per manuf recommendations. and for the record 10/10 shouldn't give you a problem-- thicker bearings I could see an argument but you should be fine..

 

if the crank was re nitrided, i dont see why you would ever have a problem.

 

Both Rod and Mains are .0010 over

 

.0010 over or .010 over? common repair for a crank is .010 or "ten thousandths"

Josh

 

ten thousandths..

 

Almost 500 Miles..Will keep everyone updated!

 

lets get everyones 2 cents a lot of big shots to turn cranks its not marketed however they are still able to achieve that great power level the op is hoping for im looking to get some rep. shops inputs

 

I've had a crank that was turned .010 on the mains in my car for almost 7K. I see no problems with it as long as the clearances are right.
Actually, I've read a few muscle car articles where they cut the crank way down (like .100 or more) to lower bearing surface speed and prevent spinning bearings/ drop parasitic losses.

 

I'm nearly positive our crank is not nitrided from the factory.

 

It has some type of surface hardening (not sure of the style) and turning them grinds past it. If it gets rehardened after turning it is as good as new.

 

The factory crank is nitride coated from the factory ( i was pretty surprised also) but its a mistake a lot of people do when they turn a crank.They don't re-nitride coat it.

 

yep factory 4g63t crank is nitride treated....