SAFCII installed - few weird items
SAFCII installed - few weird items
Hey all,
Hopefully this it the right place to discuss this, otherwise I apologize.
I got my Fields harness from Z1 yesterday. I followed directions from other members and the enlish manual.
First weird thing I noticed was that some instructions say to use wire 89 or the crank position sensor for the RPM, while others, including APEXi list wire 58.
Things went well, except I accidentally cut the TPS wire, so I had to splice it. DOH! I'm glad I got the harness, heh.
I installed the harness, turn on ignition and things seem cool. I started the car and the RPM was not working. I double-checked where I spliced and it looked good. After a few tries, it still didn't work. I was about to try wire 89 or 88 for the RPM, but first I looked at the orig wires, and there was no wire coming into the harness at pin 58??? Well that explained why it didn't work, heh. There were two other green wires coming into that plug, so I tried the first one and still no RPM. I tried the second one and voila, it worked. I've quadruple checked, and it really looks like I had it tapped to pin 58 originally, but there was no corresponding ECU wire. That's weird, isn't it?
My only other problem, is that the TPS does not read when the car is off when I do the sensor check. So, when I'm idling, my Throttle reading is like 20%. It still goes to 100% for wot and everything, but is should be 0 at closed throttle and 100% at 3/4 throttle or so. I've tried to make it "self-learn" the throttle position, but it says to hold it at WOT for 10 seconds? I assume this is when the car is off. When the car is off, nothing registers or it only reads like WOT (~4 volts?). Any ideas? Finally in terms of troubleshooting, I think the Karman freq only read 3hz and didn't change? When I accelerate through the rpm, the rpm and correction factor readout correctly? I'll double-check.
I tried a baseline map from the forum, and at first the car didn't seem much (any) faster. I turned down the boost from a 20-21 and it seems better. I may have been getting timing retard from too much boost. I actually turned it down to ~18 or so, tapering slightly, and the car feels good. I may try to tweak it up ever so slightly. I def think I need a dyno tune to get the most out of it.
If anyone is still reading I apologize again for babbling, heh.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
FB
Hopefully this it the right place to discuss this, otherwise I apologize.
I got my Fields harness from Z1 yesterday. I followed directions from other members and the enlish manual.
First weird thing I noticed was that some instructions say to use wire 89 or the crank position sensor for the RPM, while others, including APEXi list wire 58.
Things went well, except I accidentally cut the TPS wire, so I had to splice it. DOH! I'm glad I got the harness, heh.
I installed the harness, turn on ignition and things seem cool. I started the car and the RPM was not working. I double-checked where I spliced and it looked good. After a few tries, it still didn't work. I was about to try wire 89 or 88 for the RPM, but first I looked at the orig wires, and there was no wire coming into the harness at pin 58??? Well that explained why it didn't work, heh. There were two other green wires coming into that plug, so I tried the first one and still no RPM. I tried the second one and voila, it worked. I've quadruple checked, and it really looks like I had it tapped to pin 58 originally, but there was no corresponding ECU wire. That's weird, isn't it?
My only other problem, is that the TPS does not read when the car is off when I do the sensor check. So, when I'm idling, my Throttle reading is like 20%. It still goes to 100% for wot and everything, but is should be 0 at closed throttle and 100% at 3/4 throttle or so. I've tried to make it "self-learn" the throttle position, but it says to hold it at WOT for 10 seconds? I assume this is when the car is off. When the car is off, nothing registers or it only reads like WOT (~4 volts?). Any ideas? Finally in terms of troubleshooting, I think the Karman freq only read 3hz and didn't change? When I accelerate through the rpm, the rpm and correction factor readout correctly? I'll double-check.
I tried a baseline map from the forum, and at first the car didn't seem much (any) faster. I turned down the boost from a 20-21 and it seems better. I may have been getting timing retard from too much boost. I actually turned it down to ~18 or so, tapering slightly, and the car feels good. I may try to tweak it up ever so slightly. I def think I need a dyno tune to get the most out of it.
If anyone is still reading I apologize again for babbling, heh.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
FB
Hey all,
So no one else found that the rpm wasn't at pin 58? I've looked at it several times, but it really looks like my rpm wire was somewhere else. Same plug, but opposite where I expected it?
As for my Throttle settings, it's probably something with the spliced TPS? I get ~4v at WOT and ~2v at throttle closed, so even with throttle closed I see ~20% throttle on the monitor. Any tips on calibrating the sensor or should I try to wire the TPS cleaner? When I check the sensor with ignition on (car off), it only reads ~4v whether throttle is open or not.
Finally, my car doesn't "feel" faster. It kind of feels slower or about the same. I know I need to dynotune it...
My fuel is setup as follows:
2800: +1
3200: +2
3600: +1
3800: -1
4200: -3
4800: -5
5200: -6
5600: -6
6000: -7
6600: -8
6800: -12
7000: -10
After calibrating KNK at 1500 (712?) and 3500 (~720?), I see a reading of 140 or 120 when I check for max value after a few WOT passes. Most of the time KNK reads 0 or ~70 at idle.
Boost is peaking at ~20 in 3rd gear and up with a slight taper.
Any thoughts on wiring issues/calibration or tuning? Not lean enough? Is the knock enough to be concerned with?
<EDIT>Just went for a drive and I'm actually getting 0 knock, it reads the max from idle where it reads 75-80 for some reason. As I accelerate, it never blips. I had thought my map was too aggressive and I was getting retard, but I actually think I need to go a little more aggresive. My TPS is still messed up, so I need to fix that. Other than that and an eventual dyno tune I think I'm in good shape.
</EDIT>
Thanks,
FB
So no one else found that the rpm wasn't at pin 58? I've looked at it several times, but it really looks like my rpm wire was somewhere else. Same plug, but opposite where I expected it?
As for my Throttle settings, it's probably something with the spliced TPS? I get ~4v at WOT and ~2v at throttle closed, so even with throttle closed I see ~20% throttle on the monitor. Any tips on calibrating the sensor or should I try to wire the TPS cleaner? When I check the sensor with ignition on (car off), it only reads ~4v whether throttle is open or not.
Finally, my car doesn't "feel" faster. It kind of feels slower or about the same. I know I need to dynotune it...
My fuel is setup as follows:
2800: +1
3200: +2
3600: +1
3800: -1
4200: -3
4800: -5
5200: -6
5600: -6
6000: -7
6600: -8
6800: -12
7000: -10
After calibrating KNK at 1500 (712?) and 3500 (~720?), I see a reading of 140 or 120 when I check for max value after a few WOT passes. Most of the time KNK reads 0 or ~70 at idle.
Boost is peaking at ~20 in 3rd gear and up with a slight taper.
Any thoughts on wiring issues/calibration or tuning? Not lean enough? Is the knock enough to be concerned with?
<EDIT>Just went for a drive and I'm actually getting 0 knock, it reads the max from idle where it reads 75-80 for some reason. As I accelerate, it never blips. I had thought my map was too aggressive and I was getting retard, but I actually think I need to go a little more aggresive. My TPS is still messed up, so I need to fix that. Other than that and an eventual dyno tune I think I'm in good shape.
</EDIT>
Thanks,
FB
Last edited by berkel; Nov 23, 2003 at 06:17 PM.
I'm not sure what could be wrong with your TPS - I guess just recheck the wiring and make sure you're using the right wires.
When you set the knock sensor, be sure the engine is PROPERLY WARMED UP. Wait until it's warmed up and really twisting around/loud, then set it. That way your knock sensor will always read 0 (even at WOT), but will go up should anything ever happen.
As for your settings - get on the dyno as soon as you can... tuning the SAFC without a dyno/wb02 is like playing with blackmagic.. very unsafe!
When you set the knock sensor, be sure the engine is PROPERLY WARMED UP. Wait until it's warmed up and really twisting around/loud, then set it. That way your knock sensor will always read 0 (even at WOT), but will go up should anything ever happen.
As for your settings - get on the dyno as soon as you can... tuning the SAFC without a dyno/wb02 is like playing with blackmagic.. very unsafe!
Originally posted by berkel
Hey all,
So no one else found that the rpm wasn't at pin 58? I've looked at it several times, but it really looks like my rpm wire was somewhere else. Same plug, but opposite where I expected it?
As for my Throttle settings, it's probably something with the spliced TPS? I get ~4v at WOT and ~2v at throttle closed, so even with throttle closed I see ~20% throttle on the monitor. Any tips on calibrating the sensor or should I try to wire the TPS cleaner? When I check the sensor with ignition on (car off), it only reads ~4v whether throttle is open or not.
Finally, my car doesn't "feel" faster. It kind of feels slower or about the same. I know I need to dynotune it...
My fuel is setup as follows:
2800: +1
3200: +2
3600: +1
3800: -1
4200: -3
4800: -5
5200: -6
5600: -6
6000: -7
6600: -8
6800: -12
7000: -10
After calibrating KNK at 1500 (712?) and 3500 (~720?), I see a reading of 140 or 120 when I check for max value after a few WOT passes. Most of the time KNK reads 0 or ~70 at idle.
Boost is peaking at ~20 in 3rd gear and up with a slight taper.
Any thoughts on wiring issues/calibration or tuning? Not lean enough? Is the knock enough to be concerned with?
<EDIT>Just went for a drive and I'm actually getting 0 knock, it reads the max from idle where it reads 75-80 for some reason. As I accelerate, it never blips. I had thought my map was too aggressive and I was getting retard, but I actually think I need to go a little more aggresive. My TPS is still messed up, so I need to fix that. Other than that and an eventual dyno tune I think I'm in good shape.
</EDIT>
Thanks,
FB
Hey all,
So no one else found that the rpm wasn't at pin 58? I've looked at it several times, but it really looks like my rpm wire was somewhere else. Same plug, but opposite where I expected it?
As for my Throttle settings, it's probably something with the spliced TPS? I get ~4v at WOT and ~2v at throttle closed, so even with throttle closed I see ~20% throttle on the monitor. Any tips on calibrating the sensor or should I try to wire the TPS cleaner? When I check the sensor with ignition on (car off), it only reads ~4v whether throttle is open or not.
Finally, my car doesn't "feel" faster. It kind of feels slower or about the same. I know I need to dynotune it...
My fuel is setup as follows:
2800: +1
3200: +2
3600: +1
3800: -1
4200: -3
4800: -5
5200: -6
5600: -6
6000: -7
6600: -8
6800: -12
7000: -10
After calibrating KNK at 1500 (712?) and 3500 (~720?), I see a reading of 140 or 120 when I check for max value after a few WOT passes. Most of the time KNK reads 0 or ~70 at idle.
Boost is peaking at ~20 in 3rd gear and up with a slight taper.
Any thoughts on wiring issues/calibration or tuning? Not lean enough? Is the knock enough to be concerned with?
<EDIT>Just went for a drive and I'm actually getting 0 knock, it reads the max from idle where it reads 75-80 for some reason. As I accelerate, it never blips. I had thought my map was too aggressive and I was getting retard, but I actually think I need to go a little more aggresive. My TPS is still messed up, so I need to fix that. Other than that and an eventual dyno tune I think I'm in good shape.
</EDIT>
Thanks,
FB
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