Battery Relocation
Nov 23, 2003, 11:01 PM
#1
Battery Relocation
Finally finished the battery relocation over the weekend.
It is clearly more expensive then buying the small batterys for upgrading the I/C pipes. I wanted the whole thing out of there so I chose to relocate it. Figure $120 for a battery, $80 for a billet mount, $60 for cable kit and then all the ancillary things like the fuse and other parts. I also happen to have access to a good crimper for the ends, you aren't doing it without it unless you get creative with a Punch and BFH.
Now maybe I can upgrade the upper I/C pipe after the holidays.
It is clearly more expensive then buying the small batterys for upgrading the I/C pipes. I wanted the whole thing out of there so I chose to relocate it. Figure $120 for a battery, $80 for a billet mount, $60 for cable kit and then all the ancillary things like the fuse and other parts. I also happen to have access to a good crimper for the ends, you aren't doing it without it unless you get creative with a Punch and BFH.
Now maybe I can upgrade the upper I/C pipe after the holidays.
Nov 23, 2003, 11:06 PM
#3
How much of a pain in the butt was it to run the wires? Your definitely right about the mini battery kit, but there are some disadvantages of a mini battery.. Although our engine doesnt really require alot to crank.. A mini battery may not have all that much reserve capacity to listen to the radio or run accessories for a long period of time with the engine off. Also, batteries such as the Reactor Cell (not sure what Buschur uses) have very quick recharge times, but require a special charger to charge it. A regular automotive battery charger can potentially damage a mini battery (Jump starting or using a booster battery is safe though since it rarely goes over 13 volts)
Now you guys have a basis to make your decisions.. If it were an easy thing to do, I'd definitely go this way, but the only bad thing is the battery being in a storage compartment (your trunk)
Now you guys have a basis to make your decisions.. If it were an easy thing to do, I'd definitely go this way, but the only bad thing is the battery being in a storage compartment (your trunk)
Nov 23, 2003, 11:10 PM
#6
Yeah but I am used to sports cars so the Evo trunk is big to me.
With it all the way up by the rear bulkhead it is not really in the way.
I ended up running the cable along the rocker sills, believe it or not there is some room there. I exited with the wiring harness through the drivers side, inside the fender. Wasn't too bad.
One plus is the low spot in the trunk floor in that area allows me to still put in a rear strut bar, it will still clear the battery.
Last one
With it all the way up by the rear bulkhead it is not really in the way.
I ended up running the cable along the rocker sills, believe it or not there is some room there. I exited with the wiring harness through the drivers side, inside the fender. Wasn't too bad.
One plus is the low spot in the trunk floor in that area allows me to still put in a rear strut bar, it will still clear the battery.
Last one
Nov 23, 2003, 11:13 PM
#7
Originally posted by MalibuJack
BTW thats an amazingly impressively clean install... (Enough adjectives for you?)
BTW thats an amazingly impressively clean install... (Enough adjectives for you?)
Given the area where the battery used to be, there is not a lot of options for mounting the original connections up front so I ended up using the original battery tray and trimming it down. I was hoping to move my oil catch can ove to the area but don't know how I'd mount it there. I have to wait and see how the I/C pipe fits before I can really do anything with the space.
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Nov 24, 2003, 01:15 PM
#9
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Very nice, very clean, I am still a little confused on how you ran the wires? Did you go into the cabin with them and then drilled into the floor board, or through the trunk floor?
Also what are you using to fixate the original battery terminal connector?
Not sure if your planning any events but certain groups require a battery box for a trunk mount. At the very least you might want somthing to cover those exposed terminals.
This is on my to do list also, I was thinking about taking out the dohnut spare and putting it there and just getting a can of fix a flat ala ZO6. I also have that Cusco rear strut bar with the fancy V brace comming down so I am not sure if that spot would fit for me.
I just removed all the trunk carpeting altogether, much easier install and if I am putting any one in the trunk I probably won't care how comfortable they are
.
BTW Those Optima batteries are great and have a very quick 1-2 hr recharge time. If you happen to drain it, do not leave a charger on it for extended periods/over night, all I can say is thank goodness for the 3 year replacment warranty.
Thanks for the update, I like it.
Also what are you using to fixate the original battery terminal connector?
Not sure if your planning any events but certain groups require a battery box for a trunk mount. At the very least you might want somthing to cover those exposed terminals.
This is on my to do list also, I was thinking about taking out the dohnut spare and putting it there and just getting a can of fix a flat ala ZO6. I also have that Cusco rear strut bar with the fancy V brace comming down so I am not sure if that spot would fit for me.
I just removed all the trunk carpeting altogether, much easier install and if I am putting any one in the trunk I probably won't care how comfortable they are
.BTW Those Optima batteries are great and have a very quick 1-2 hr recharge time. If you happen to drain it, do not leave a charger on it for extended periods/over night, all I can say is thank goodness for the 3 year replacment warranty.
Thanks for the update, I like it.
Nov 24, 2003, 01:41 PM
#13
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I really like your install. I think I might follow suit but use the Summit Racing relocation kit instead (~$50). I have two questions:
1.) Where does your (+) lead pass through to the engine compartment? Did you use a bulkhead connector or did you go through the passenger compartment, into the fender well and behind the fender liner?
2.) What piece of hardware is used to provide the (+) post in the engine compartment?
1.) Where does your (+) lead pass through to the engine compartment? Did you use a bulkhead connector or did you go through the passenger compartment, into the fender well and behind the fender liner?
2.) What piece of hardware is used to provide the (+) post in the engine compartment?
Nov 24, 2003, 06:29 PM
#15
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Originally posted by SILVER SURFER
Hey Gunzo, how is that water injection (I think thats what I see) working out for you?
Hey Gunzo, how is that water injection (I think thats what I see) working out for you?
(Pump gas)Problem is figure out how much water to spray
You can feel the car bog when it sprays too much ..
Oh yes .. I run a GT25 hybrid on this car too
