Low boost IX
Tight is a relative term in these cases. Tight for you is not tight for me, I assure you. At any rate it is best to take one's time in these cases and always start the journey from ground zero.
The first step is to adjust the length of the actuator rod to the point where the hole in the turnbuckle freely slides on and off the peg on the WG's pivot arm while gently pulling the pivot arm back toward the WGA canister with the tip of your left index finger. That is... the axial center of the turnbuckle hole should line up directly onto the axial center of the peg on the pivot arm and slide freely on and off while taking the slack out of the pivot arm motion by gently pulling it back toward the WGA canister with a free finger.
I need to know the boost reading when the WGA is set up in this way. This will be the starting point. "Base spring pressure."
There are some preliminary steps that you must take first in order to do this though. I'll try to post them up a little later today as duty is pulling me out the door.
The first step is to adjust the length of the actuator rod to the point where the hole in the turnbuckle freely slides on and off the peg on the WG's pivot arm while gently pulling the pivot arm back toward the WGA canister with the tip of your left index finger. That is... the axial center of the turnbuckle hole should line up directly onto the axial center of the peg on the pivot arm and slide freely on and off while taking the slack out of the pivot arm motion by gently pulling it back toward the WGA canister with a free finger.
I need to know the boost reading when the WGA is set up in this way. This will be the starting point. "Base spring pressure."
There are some preliminary steps that you must take first in order to do this though. I'll try to post them up a little later today as duty is pulling me out the door.
First. You'll need to disconnect whatever vacuum hose is connected to the nipple on the turbo's compressor discharge tube(aka j-pipe) and disconnect the hose on the WGA. Plug the 2 open hose ends for now.
Connect a length of new 4mm hose directly between the port on the WGA And the j-pipe nipple. Try a WOT run. Go ahead and try it with the way you have the actuator rod length set up presently. This will tell us exactly what spring pressure is loaded to now.
Connect a length of new 4mm hose directly between the port on the WGA And the j-pipe nipple. Try a WOT run. Go ahead and try it with the way you have the actuator rod length set up presently. This will tell us exactly what spring pressure is loaded to now.
Ok, I just got back from doing a WOT pull running wastegate pressure with the wastegate in it's previous "preloaded" state. I did a full third gear pull from 2500-7000 RPMs and the boost went straight to 9, slowly crept up to 10, and then fell to 7-8 by redline. Just for fun I plotted the pull in virtual dyno and it was 193 hp @ 6,906 RPM's and 194 lbft @ 3,625 RPM's.
Once it cools down enough I will adjust the wastegate to where it slides on, thus remving the "preload", and do another pull to see what my wastegate spring pressure is.
I've read that stock wastegate pressure should be around 11psi, is that correct?
Once it cools down enough I will adjust the wastegate to where it slides on, thus remving the "preload", and do another pull to see what my wastegate spring pressure is.
I've read that stock wastegate pressure should be around 11psi, is that correct?
Last edited by 9!'clipseDOHC; Jul 1, 2012 at 01:20 PM.
I adjusted the wastegate actuator do it lined up with the wastegate flapper arm and slid on easily. With it like that and running wastegate pressure it took a while to build up to 8 psi and then it fell to 7 psi by redline. Normal driving when I am usually hitting boost it wasn't boosting at all. I'm thinking I may have found my problem.
1bar= 14.5 PSI. Probably nothing wrong with either your wastegate actuator or the flapper valve. My non-USDM VIII hit only 14.5# when it was new from the factory too. But, you can increase the 14.5# spring level by adjusting the actuator.
Last edited by sparky; Oct 10, 2013 at 05:18 AM.
but i do see alot evo 9 owners hitting mostly around 1 bar.... so if its true then getting a MBC would be better to turn up the boost higher with a good tune
Basically, your WG's spring pressure is just too low. Thus, regardless of whatever method you may wish to employ to control peak boost level and/or the slope of the boost curve...your turbo's WG spring pressure is just too low and needs to be increased. Do you comprendo?
The factory MHI wastegate actuators fitted to our 16G turbos are adjustable allowing a fairly wide range of spring pressure, pretension, or "preload" to be achieved. This internal spring is about a 9 PSI and is non-replaceable inside the wastegate cannister. Overtime the spring itself tends to become fatigued just as the suspension springs on a high mileage automobile lose tension. The tip of the actuator rod is threaded allowing for a range of adjustability in WG spring pressure.
You brought this thread back from the dead, so this may have been gone over in earlier posts, I don't know. Some basics: If you bought the car new does it have a lot of miles on the original actuator? The previous owner may have removed and later tried to replace the factory boost/vacuum hoses. So, run a boost leak test. Buy a factory vacuum/boost hose assembly from the dealer and install it. Test WG spring pressure level by running the gate straight off the compressor discharge pipe's nipple.
The factory MHI wastegate actuators fitted to our 16G turbos are adjustable allowing a fairly wide range of spring pressure, pretension, or "preload" to be achieved. This internal spring is about a 9 PSI and is non-replaceable inside the wastegate cannister. Overtime the spring itself tends to become fatigued just as the suspension springs on a high mileage automobile lose tension. The tip of the actuator rod is threaded allowing for a range of adjustability in WG spring pressure.
You brought this thread back from the dead, so this may have been gone over in earlier posts, I don't know. Some basics: If you bought the car new does it have a lot of miles on the original actuator? The previous owner may have removed and later tried to replace the factory boost/vacuum hoses. So, run a boost leak test. Buy a factory vacuum/boost hose assembly from the dealer and install it. Test WG spring pressure level by running the gate straight off the compressor discharge pipe's nipple.
Last edited by sparky; Oct 11, 2013 at 03:17 AM.
My question is did you purchase the car new and observe 1.5 bar originally and that peak boost level has lowered over time since 2006 down to a present peak level of 14.5#? Or, did you buy the car second hand and you are just now discovering that peak boost is not quite what you expect that it should be?
First of all, run a boost leak test(BLT). Double check all boost/vacuum hoses for tears and tight fitment. If running the factory boost control setup check for presence of the two "pills", aka restrictor orifices. Test the wastegate to establish current spring pressure level.
First of all, run a boost leak test(BLT). Double check all boost/vacuum hoses for tears and tight fitment. If running the factory boost control setup check for presence of the two "pills", aka restrictor orifices. Test the wastegate to establish current spring pressure level.
one thing though 3rd and 4th gear do boost up to 1.4barb if you accelerate
but if you start from 1st they stay close to 1.1bar all gears then tapers down





